MOTUL RBF 600

We use it in the lesser race cars (historic). Works great, stands up to race conditions and high heat cycling. It doesn't really attack the older rubber seals like some of the other newer synthetic fluids do. For the superior race car (TransAM/GT1) we run Castrol SRF (silicon ester). Hands down, Best stuff on the planet... if you are willing to pay for it.

Really, the flushing every year is a product of how clean your system is to start with. New master and lines and you'll be fine. If you already have rust in your system, its like a seed crystal and it just advances more rust. Unfortunately all these fluids are hygroscopic (except the pure silicones) and they will pull in moisture if you don't have balloon diaphragms on your reservoirs to close the system. If you already have rust in your system, a better fluid isn't going to stop/reverse it.

Rick

 

Ahh.... should be fine.

2dinos....?? Hmmm, are you the Dentist with two 246's that used to stay at Los Laureles Lodge with the Pantera club during the Monterey events? If so, nice cars... I've drooled.

Rick

 

Brake fluid is brake fluid, plain and simple. The only difference between Motul 600 and the cheap crap you buy at any auto store is the wet and dry boiling point. As long as it is DOT 3 or 4, it all works the same inside the system. For street use, almost any of the brands work just fine, especially if you are sticking with the name brand stuff.

But, if you are taking the car to the track, you will be heating the brakes up much hotter than they ever get on the street, assuming you a pushing the car and using threshold braking technique. So you want a fluid with a high boiling point. Motul 600 is good (I've used it), as is ATE SuperBlue/Amber 200 (use the Amber if you don't want the traces of blue in your reservoir), Wilwood and other "racing" fluids. Unless you are a serious racer or running in severe conditions, I wouldn't go for the high cost of Castrol SRF or whatever the designation is. I run Castrol LMA in my Jaguar XKE, and ATE SuperBlue/Amber in the Ferrari and my Corvette Z06, which is my track car.

You don't have to change to a "street" fluid after the track event. Fluid is fluid, it all works the same. I usually run some fresh fluid through the system on the Corvette just before a track event, just to be safe since I really push that car hard. But for street use, most brake fluids are good for about 2 years. More frequent changes don't hurt, but once a year is good for street use/ occasional track days, IMHO. Lots of different opinions on this stuff, and YMMV, but that's my $.02.

 

p.s. Don't ever, ever, ever -- and in case you can't tell, I mean NEVER EVER -- use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid in your car. Silicone fluid is supposed to be safer for the paint. But if you have any trace of DOT 3/4 in your system, the two are not compatible and you will end up with a mess of gelled fluid in the system. Not good. And silicone will not stand up to the heat generated on the track. So stick with DOT 3/4 fluids and you'll be fine (DOT 5.1 fluids are compatible with DOT 3/4, just be careful you are actually using a DOT 5.1, NOT DOT 5).

 

Respectfully disagree.

See: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281874

DM

 

Okay, it's your brakes, not mine. Do whatever makes you happy. Like I said in the first post, YMMV, and opinions differ. But for my cars, I'm not mixing silicone fluids with DOT 3/4 fluid, and I'm not using silicone fluids in any of my cars that I'm taking on the track. Personally, I won't use it at all. But that's just me.