You asked for the 'correct' procedure to set/correct the timing on these cams. I have an alternate procedure that you may want to consider. If you are open to doing the job without removing the engine, it might save you time and effort, or - if you like feel free to ignore and do the job by the workshop manual. Note this is fraught with peril if you eff it up. Proceed with due caution. 1. Set the engine at TDC on the crank. From now until the end of the procedure, it will NOT move at all. 2. Check the cam ticks are near or lined up. For each of the cams needing adjustment ONLY, loosen the cam lock bolt on the end of the cam(s). For the cam(s) which are lined up with the ticks, do not loosen the end nut. 3. Remove all cam/valve covers. (you need to do this anyway for valve lash) 4. For cams which are lined up and do not need adjustment: A) Remove a cam journal cap. B) Place a small match cover cardboard on the journal. C) Replace the cam journal, crushing the thin cardboard, but do not torque the bolts! Gentle pressure will do here. These cams will never move until the end of the procedure. 5. Loosen the tensioner bolt, and slide the belt off now. The cams which need adjustment may move due to spring moving the lobe, don't worry about it right now. 6. For cams which require adjustment: A) Remove a cam journal cap, as in step 4. B) carefully rotate the cam in the shortest direction so that the ticks are now lined up with the front journal cap(as in your picture). C) With the ticks lined up, place the matchbook cardboard on the journal, then place the journal cap on, trapping the cardboard. D) Gently tighten the journal cap bolts to lock the cam in place at the correct timed position. 7. Verify now that: The crank is at TDC: All four cams are locked with cardboard at the correct timing ticks. 8. Remove the cam end bolts of the cams which need adjustment. Gently pry the timing gears from those cams only. The ones that don't need adjustment remain in place. 9. Now is the time to replace the tensioner, and any guide roller bearings as req. 10. Begin to thread the new belt. Start on the crank timing gear. Use 3 or 4 of those black small paper binder clasps to secure the belt to the crank timing gear. The pinch clasps will keep the belt on the gear, and not damage the belt. 11. Thread the belt clockwise, so that the tensioner is the last thing you will thread the belt around. 12. ** Tricky steps!! ** 13. With the slack taken out of the belt, at each location where the cam gear is removed: A) Rotate the cam gear on the end of the cam so that the alignment pin, and offset hole(s)(seen in your pic) line up so there is tension on the belt from the previous gear/roller. You may need to test several combos before getting it just right. In some cases, you can't take 100% of the slack out of the belt. Get it as tight as possible. Put the cam gear washer and bolt on once the belt is threaded and put a small amount of torque on it. Final torque will be done later. 14. Set the tension with the tension roller per book value. This will be reset again at a later step. 15. Check the tick marks, all should still be lined up. 16. For ALL FOUR CAMS: A) Remove cam journal cap which has the cardboard under. B) Remove the cardboard. C) Install the journal cap, and torque. 17. Check tick marks. If you kept tension on the belt during your adjustment of the gears, all the ticks should be on or very close together. 18. Reset the tensioner setting now to book value. 19. Verify you have all four cardboard pieces removed. Remove the paper binder clasps from crank gear. Rotate the crank bolt two full revolutions. 20. Re-check tick marks. 21. Re-check timing ticks. 22. Torque cam gear bolts to factory setting.