Looks like some of the systems are not hooked up properly, it may not be reset related for some of the warnings. Glad to help, but with all due respect, this thread is for solutions, not questions. Please start a new thread with your questions and you will get more responses, don't muddy up a DIY thread. From the original post that started this thread and the same thing I posted just above your post: "Please keep your posts limited to links, so we don't get the thread clogged with questions and answers." Alden
A short useful summary on how to bleed your clutch fluid on a 1985 QV Mondial Coupe, I noticed after changing my brake fluid some air got into the clutch fluid and looks like the fluid has not been changed in years. My clutch pedal was very soft and suddenly could not operate the clutch trying to shift into gear. Instructions: 1) Jack up the car rear left hand side 2) Remove rear wheel left hand side 3) Unscrew and remove inner wheel arch moulding, unclip the drain hoses before removing the moulding 4) Locate the bleed nipple on the top of the clutch slave cylinder, remove the rubber dust cap ( Not easy to get to as it's behind a coolant hose ) 5) Unscrew the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap located in front car bay 6) Next with a 7mm spanner, loosen the bleed nipple located on the top of the slave cylinder 7) Connect your brake fluid bleed kit ( mine is a simple clear tube with a 1 way valve and a old glass jar/bottle), make sure the nipple is finger loose 8) Get your wife, partner, kid or friend to pump half way down on the clutch pedal several times. Do not push the pedal to the floor or your master cylinder piston can get stuck! 9) Whilst pumping, make sure you top up the reservoir with fresh fluid whilst the old discharges out 10) Once all the air and old fluid is drained, with new fluid running out - tighten up the bleed nipple 11) Your clutch actuator linkage should now work again, by pushing on the hard clutch pedal down... 12) To put everything back, reverse procedures 5 to 1. Cheers Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Did not see a link in the this thread to the manuals, but found this site with online access to Ferrari manuals as well as other cars: All Cars they have: Workshop Manuals and Owners Manuals | How a Car Works Ferrari: Ferrari workshop manuals | How a Car Works Mondial: Ferrari Mondial Workshop Manuals | How a Car Works
Nice find. However the wiring diagrams for the Mondial T included in the workshop manual for the T are distorted to the point that they are hard to read. I also have an electronic copy of the workshop manual from another supplier for the T and the wiring diagrams are distorted and many are not usable. Does anyone have an electronic copy of the Mondial T wiring diagrams that are not distorted?
I found that if you download the PDF pages of the diagrams for the manual, they are legible. Viewing them online or in the browser they do look distorted. For example see attached, you can zoom in and the details are crisp and legible. If anyone is interested, I do a stitched together full manual and parts catalog from the site. The manual file itself of 304 pages is close to 140MB, the parts catalog is 4.8MB so I could send you a CD with both of them it if anyone is interested. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's one how to remove the leather from the front seats http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/536052-removing-leather-front-seats.html#post145006197
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/538452-replacing-plug-clips-how-get-broken-bases-out.html Alden
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/546840-what-instrument-panel-buttons-look-inside-pics.html Thanks, Guido! Alden
I'm making a reference to the goldfinger thread because there are a lot of DIY things in there. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/goldfinger.525853/
Really need this for my rebuild: an old one from Urs about the slow window motors: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/mondial-qv-side-windows-from-4-mls-to-4-secs.481760/#post-143813829
Yelcab explaining how to remove a 3.4 engine: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348t-engine-out-with-pictures-and-procedures.565333/
Where can I find the diy answer for throttle cable replacement on a 83 Mondial 4 valve coupe? Thought you might know. Thanks Rod
The throttle cable on the MQV is pretty straightforward: detach from the pedal and remove the nut at the end of the cable so it is able to pass through the tube. Then pull through the tube from underneath the engine bay and detach from the engine.
Removing cable from plenum : on the end of the throttle cable you have this (see picture). First remove the split clips that holds the internal nut in place. Then you can unscrew that nut and the ball joint can be removed. Then turn ball joint and cable end is free to be pushed trough the fair leads of plenum and front valve cover. There is also a contra nut that have to removed on the front side of plenum. . Image Unavailable, Please Login Push cable all way down under the engine and you pull it out of the tube to the back side of the car. Guido
Any advice on servicing window washer nozzles? The washer pump is working, and activation results in small water discharge from the base of the nozzles, so I suspect blockage. I got as far as partly removing the black plastic piece that runs across the base of the windshield and holds the nozzles, but didn’t want to force the nozzles out of the plastic piece for cleaning. Do the nozzles pop out? Screw out? I only lifted the up one side of the plastic piece because on the windscreen side it is retained snuggly under a thin metal/aluminium collar. I was a bit concerned about not being able to cleanly reseat the plastic piece during reassembly. Image Unavailable, Please Login
1990 Mondial t fuel pump renovation is quite straightforward and self-explanatory once the pumps have been removed underneath. My anti-vibration pads were found to have disintegrated. Rubber gaskets were still in reasonable condition. I put in new pads, gaskets, and fuel pumps. I had been getting intermittent 1211 codes on bank 5-8. When I disconnected bank 5-8 fuel line, I could tell that residual pressure was not being held, while when I disconnected bank 1-4, there was significant residual pressure. I had previously put in new fuel pressure regulators on both banks. With the new fuel pumps, I am no longer seeing codes. In retrospect, it appears that it was probably just the fuel pump on bank 5-8 that was not providing enough pressure. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Question: if you change the fuel filter, do you have to bleed the fuel system? Or can you start the engine en it wil be ok? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Just finished my first tough DIY - servicing the axle CV joints after I noticed one of the rubber boots had split. Actually I heard it could be tough to remove the axle bolts so I gave the job to a local Ferrari garage. However they could not budge them and gave me the car back. Long story short, on passenger side I soaked the bolts for 1 day in penetrating oil, then used a blow torch to heat them. The bolts came free after this, but it still took a bit of muscle on a breaker bar. The bolts on the other side came free much easier after 2 days of soaking with penetrating oil - no torch needed. Once off, I serviced the CV joints following Birdman’s procedure and a cv boot kit I purchased (fluentinferrari.com) - I.e. disassemble, clean, regrease and reassemble with new boots. I had never done this job before on any car, and it was not too complicated, but quite physical at times. The CV joints are a bit of a puzzle to reassemble, but kind of fun (Birdman gives great hints). Putting the drivers side axle back in today was a slow process, trying to torque up the outer axle bolts - very confined, only able to torque about 15 degrees at a time before having to adjust the hex key to allow another 15 degrees of tightening!! I suspect a lift would have made things easier, accessing from underneath. Anyway all done now, I estimate 16 hours over 3 weeks. My first time so pretty slow, but apparently stripping the bolts is a royal PITA, so I really did take my time to do it carefully.
Replacing sealing rings on shaft for control lever gearbox : I can confirm that those sealing rings ( twice number 5) can be changed without removing the ENGINE sump cover. Only the gearbox sump cover have to be removed. The seal between engine and gearbox you can remove with a dental pic or likeone. Leaf the control lever inside the engine sump just at the opening of the seal hole (engine side) so when TRYING to put the new seal (a OEM seal) in place it will not flop inside the engine. It whas VERY dificult to put that seal in place !! Toke me several attempts to get it right but in the end it jumped in place, oeps... The front seal : because I used the VERRELL seal in front I did grind off the head of the control lever so that the angle was more oblique. And with some grease the lever did enter well without damaging the seal. PS : the old seals (more then 30 years !) where still soft but did'nt do their job....loosing some oil. Image Unavailable, Please Login
After owning my car for 4 years, I decided to finally do a timing belt and water pump change (as well as AC and alternator belts). While I was in there, a replaced a bunch of coolant hoses and did a little cleaning. Happy to say the work was a complete success and my 82 Mondial Annie is recovering nicely. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/cam-belt-replacement-trouble.621585/
