So, after going back and forth on lifts for the last 6 months, I decided to stay with my original plan and bought a Mohawk A7. It's an expensive lift but I really could not find any other solution that addressed all of my issues so well. It was delivered today and that was some what of a circus and I'm a bit disappointed that touch up paint will be my new best friend some people just have no finesse. I need to get different anchors since the ones supplied are not designed for through holes in the concrete and we did need to drill thru-off to the Hilti store tomorrow. It needs power too, so it will be a week or so before it's operational. I'm excited to have this and the great assistance it will bring working on the car. Image Unavailable, Please Login
4" Mohawk specifies 4.5" min. It's a 7000 lb lift. I was not going to cut up my floor over 1/2" since: 1) I'll never lift anything near 7000 lbs 2) let's face it, they have at least a saftey factor of 2 BTW, MaxJax also specifies 4.5" Bendpak and others specify 4"
You should be fine with 4". The motor will stall out as a failsafe before the pillars ever give u a catastrophe with a car.. Very nice lift too, You will wonder how we worked on our backs on a creeper all this time. LOL
You will love it, and as Dr V said, wonder how you ever lived without it. A lift of any flavor is an amazing addition.
I talked to Danmar about the max jax They said 4" is fine. Instructions say 4 1/4". But it also says you need to drill 5 1/2" so I asked about that. The depth is necessary because the anchors need to be recessed 1/2" below the floor surface before they are tightened to lock. They said no problem if you drill through as long as the anchors seat. Otherwise thy will give you some epoxy and different anchors. When I had my new floor poured a couple of years ago I had if about 6" thick with wire mesh. I see you painted your car green.
Yeah the shippers never handle the lifts worth a damn it's nothing new unfortunately. Typical treatment of **** that's not theirs syndrome. When I get my next house I will have one of these worth the cash for sure!
So, based on drilling the holes thru the concrete, which was rather unavoidable given the thickness, my only good option is to use Hilti epoxy and anchors which I bought today. My buddy loaned me the dispensing gun so that saved me $140, but I still spent $200 on supplies. But, the epoxy system is even stronger (hard for me to believe) than mechanical fasteners. I hope to install then tomorrow. First step is to open the holes to 7/8". I just did one hole now (drill only) and that went well.
Dave I have used many diff types of hilti epoxies and there amazing as long as you use what's recommended. We tested some and the concrete breaks. Used them lots to add steps into storm manholes etc as well. Great stuff but as you mentioned big bucks. I'm still waiting for the pics. Keep on drillin it's what built this country. Ps if you hit gas,power,water or sewer stop. If you hit oil pick out your color for the La Ferrari.
Hi Dave, Say, can you set the epoxy in this cold weather? You may have to wait a few months to set the anchors.
Hi John, My garage is heated although the specification references the actual concrete temp. I'll need 24 hours for full cure but I'm also doing the install in sections of time and therefore, I'll wait 2-3 days (to be safe) before tightening the bolts. And, it will be a week or so before I have power to the lift so I won't have a car on it for a bit. Image Unavailable, Please Login
So I've been really busy....I epoxy set the anchors last night. Wow, I'm impressed how these set up. I'm going to wait until at least tomorrow night before tightening the nuts. I also need to get power run and my electrician has been busy. I hope to have this operational within 1-2 weeks.
I'm so happy to see someone else with a Ferrari and a tractor. I have a picture somewhere of when I first bought mine my wife took the picture and our skid steer is in the background. It made me laugh because not too many people have this combination I don't think. Nice lift BTW I went with an MDX-6P because I didn't trust the concrete enough for a 2 post lift. I hope to finish the outbuilding soon and put a full 2-post in there.
So, last night I torqued the nuts to 100 FT-Lbs. No issues at all. I've never used epoxy anchors before and even though I'm a Mechanical Engineer, the idea of using a non-mechanical anchor was really not sitting well with me. I must say, I'm impressed. I'm looking forward to getting this complete and working on the car.
When the guys installed mine they asked how thick the floors were and I told them 6" (because we built the garage specifically with the lift in mind). The guy was like "yeah, they all say that, but they never are. We'll see." They were, but he also said they had never NOT installed one... so I am guessing there are plenty out there on thin floors. Enjoy!
Guys, I've been working a bit at a time to get my lift operational. I had power run last weekend and now I'm working on the last details. So, I had an issue where the lift would not come down. I'm posting this here so that if anyone else buys a Mohawk A7 this could be a very useful tip: Here is the email I sent to Mohawk: _______________________________________________________________________ Hello Keith / Ray, So, last night I loosened the carriage stop bolts and ran the pump - this did not do anything to help my cylinder to reset. The master was still locked in the up position. So, I called Dave from Atlas and discussed it with him. He told me about a button (valve) under the main cylinder. Sure enough, I put my finger underneath and could feel it. I used an open end wrench and my foot to actuate the button and they pressed the lowering lever and all good! Down the lift came! So, I got thinking about this and realized the cylinder was sitting up on the bracket that holds it in place. Of course, with the carriage down, this could not be seen. I used a rubber mallet and knocked the cylinder off the bracket and all is good. See attached. I think you guys may wish to add this to your documentation and a possible issue and cause. Now, I still have one other problem: The off side cylinder does bleeds down an inch or two only at full stroke. If I run the pump, it lifts right up but once I release pressure it bleeds down. What is the cause of this? Image Unavailable, Please Login
So I've been really busy moving my business into a new facility which we had built. I've been tinkering with the lift a couple hours at a time. I need to make a couple adjustments but it's about 99%. I decided to test it out on my very dirty BMW so if I dropped it, I could avoid the wash Hockey pucks are great (Thanks Mitch) The arms just cleared without blocking up the wheels which won't be the case with the Ferrari Image Unavailable, Please Login
I think he's asking why is true asymmetric Probably the best lift configuration out there -- I'm very jealous...
