Mobil One 1 oil info

Hello,

Forget about extended life oil or 5000/15000 mile oil change by Mobil oil, that is for Jeffy Lube type cars. The Mobil do not make any 5W-50 oil. But they do make 0W-40 oil which is superior grade for europian cars. Your local auto dealer should order for you. cost about $ 5.60 per quart.

 

Want THE BEST ? ; Amsoil.

 

Perhaps run a search here in the tech Q&A - there was a good debate on exactly this issue about three weeks ago. As expected, there's some diversity of opinion on oil weights. I believe the newer ferrari manuals spec 5/50 multi-wt for most climates and operating temps. The manual for my mondial 3.2 spec's 10/40 multi-wt and I use that weight with Mobile 1 - seems like a good compromise between lubrication viscosity and less friction. Personally, I think a 5wt is too light an oil, even with strong oil pressure, but that's just my opinion. I have more experience testing oil weights with 911s (inc. my own) than my ferrari - the 911 performs much better with a minimum 10wt multi-weight than 5wt (sustained oil temp, pressue build on start up, metal on the magnetic sump plug, leaks, etc.).

Everyone has an opinion on this subject and the opinions vary dramatically! I think the key is to open minded and tolerant of other's well thought out opinions.

 

LOL! Ok, admit i tried Amsoil 20-50 Synth 2000. May i simply say Mobile 1 0W-40 is now my mainstay for street and track. ONLY during very hard and very hot TRACK days may i switch to Mobile 1 15W-50 grade.

 

youve got alot more to worry about if you get to the 200c flashpoint of the oil! i just used 15 50 mobil 1 .

 

Eric -

The "Clean" line is NOT 100% synthetic. It is a dino/syn blend. Stay away. The packaging is deceptive, in my opinion.


I run 5w20 Mobil1 in my 348 down in North Carolina. No problems whatsoever.


-Daniel

 

The 360 and 430 specify 5w-40.

Gary

 

I do not like Mobile1 myself and prefer Castrol TWS 10w60 synthetic oil for my Boxer...I did try Mobile1 15w50 once in my Boxer and it caused it to smoke on start-up. After I went back to Castrol TWS, the start-up smoke stopped...

 

Although far from an expert, I studied AEHass' oil 101-110 and ended-up using Mobil 0-40W in my 328.

The rational was, per Dr Haas, for synthetic oil, use the same "W" number as the manufacturer recommends and the first number ("0" in my case) should be as low as possible.

He also said before you change the "W" number to a higher or lower value you should determine where your oil pressure relief valve opens. This is checked by accelerating and noting the RPM when the oil pressure stabilizes. The OP will quite rising with RPM when the pressure relief valve opens. Testing the pressure relief valve opening should be done at full operating temperature. He said the relief valve should open at something like 75% of max RPM--if your valve opens sooner the oil is too thick, later and the oil is too thin.

Mark

 

If want all the info you will ever need to know about oil go to bobistheoilguy.com and look at there UOA(used oil analisys) portion of the sight, some oils work well in one engine but not another very interesting reading. I prefer Redline oils 5-40w in the 355 and BMW 528. Regards,Vern

 

Hello LetsJet,
I use Mobil 1 in my 355. A few weeks ago, I had lunch with several F-Car mechanics and one of them, Tony Palandrino (I think that is how to spell it), said that he stopped recommending and using Mobil 1 (edit:15-50) because it recently starting causing problems with the insides of the oil filters. He said that Mobil 1 changed something in the formulation. He works at FoSV or FoSF. For whatever it is worth, I change my oil often and have not seen problems. Next time I may cut open my filter to see what it looks like.

 

Castrol makes a 5W-50. I am going to use it in my Viper racecar, but I will stick to 0-40W Mobil 1 in the TR.

 

It's Tony Palladino, and he used to be shop foreman at FoSV, but is not there any longer. Interesting comments on Mobil 1, though.

Gary

 

15w-50 is awful thick anyway...just switch to 0w-40 Mobil 1...that is what I have been using exclusively in my 355....

 

the dealership that did my major used sint 2000 15-50 in my 348 . i just did a oil change with the mobil one 15-50 . i hope my filter wont melt and motor blow up ...

 

Ferrari of Washington changed my oil on April 10, 2006 and put in Mobil one, 10 quarts of 15W50

 

Mobil 1 Extended Performance, is 100% synthetic (says so on the bottle), I just changed mine and used 15w-50. Advanced Auto Parts- has the original Mobil1 fully synthetic on sale for $4.94/qt right now.
They didn't have 15w-50 in the old Mobil1 synthetic in stock, so they gave me that price on the new Extended Performance fully synthetic.
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Not too thick for Phoenix!!

 

According to Mr Haas, even 0 weight is too thick at temps under about 140F. After checking viscosity numbers for various temps, Mobil 1 0-40 looks like the best compromise to me. Flows the best at startup yet retains excellent viscosity even at high temps. If I remember right, it even beats some 50 weights at the high end. I have used it in my 328 for some time. When my 430 warranty runs out, I'll use it in that too.

Dave

 

If you are tracking the car with stock oil cooler (of a model 3x8), i bet the 15W-50 is not too thick for Phoenix during summer as oil temps probably get to 240F+. Ok, during startup it may be 'too thick,' though the great Mr. H reminds us that we must also look at the final oil's viscosity AT OPERATING TEMPS to find the best viscosity. Different oils have different viscosity at certain temps.

On that note, using 0W-40 for cooler/normal driving on street and track days where ambient is 75F oil temps get to 200F MAX, but in July when i'll be at Lime Rock and ambient will be about 90F or so, will change to the 15W-50 as last year the oil temp was 240F steady. Debating getting a more effective oil cooler, but here in New England we rarely see 'hot' days (read: over 90F, let alone i bet Phoenix gets to 100F+). So i agree about 15W-50 for Phoenix, especially for the track in stock system.

Also note, during cold early spring and late fall where ambient is 50F or below i use 0W (or 5W)-30 weight for street driving.

NOTE: have improved the coolant radiator so will see where temps are this year and adjust accordingly. The whole point, look at your oil temps and adjust viscosity accordingly. And if your car leaks oil due to using a thinner formula, it is not the oil. It is time to get those engine gaskets fixed IMHO. Fchatter Verell has seen my car that is tracked often and commented how 'clean' she is, and she is run hard and hot on track as often as possible.

 

It is certainly important to gather and consider empirical data such as oil pressures and temperatures at various ambient temperatures and under road and track conditions when trying to determine the "right" oil for your application.

I just re-read the above, and it looks really pompous. Sorry. But you know what I mean. Everyone's needs are bit different, and the aim is to find an oil that suits your conditions.

You might consider having a "used oil analysis" (UOA) done next time you drain the crankcase. The results can be interesting. I just changed the oil in my 328 last month and sent a sample off to Blackstone for anaysis. The oil was Mobil 1 0W-40 and had only 1250 miles on it. Oil filter was a Baldwin B253, air filter was OEM. The UOA showed that the wear metals in the oil were practically nil and that the oil was doing an excellent job of protecting the engine considering my driving style and environment: Road use only, engine oil always warmed up to 175 F before exceeding 3000 RPM, oil temperature only rarely exceeding 210 F, but runs up to redline every time the car is driven.

I was shocked to see, however, that the oil was no longer a 40 weight. It had sheared down to a middling 30 weight oil at operating temperature (100 degrees C). Specifically, Mobil 1 0w-40 is supposed to have a viscosity of 14.3 cSt at that temperature. My sample tested at 11.3 cSt. That is the same viscosity, by the way, of Mobil 1 5W-30.

So I was somewhat aggrieved to find I was buying a 40 weight and getting a 30 weight. Setting aside that thought, I note that:

--Regardless of the "viscosity shift" (Blackstone's term), the oil obviously provided satisfactory lubrication for my application. So no harm done.

--I would probably want to change to a "real" 40-weight if I were to put the car on the track. Whatever I chose, I'd want to analyze its effectiveness.

--Maybe I just ought to buy a 30-weight oil for my type of driving and Hawaii temperatures. An oil like Mobil 1 5W-30 would obviously provide a viscosity at operating temperature that would be suitable for my car, and the viscosity at startup would be less than that of the 0W-40. (Although Blackstone did not measure the viscosity at 40 degrees C, considered a cold engine). My only concern would be that the 5W-30 would shear down to a 20 weight and I'd see some engine wear. I am not yet ready to join the advocates of 20 weight oils for Ferraris, but I might find myself unwillingly joining their ranks some day--as the result of hard data.

Bottom line: The oil grading system is pretty loose. Some 5W-40s are thinner than 0W-40s, some 10W-40s are thinner than 5W-40s, and some oils shear to a lower grade in some engines. It's not a bad idea to have your choice analyzed to see how well it's doing the job. (Disclaimer: I have no relationship with Blackstone other than as a customer).

Cheers, Mark

 

0W-40 is going on the thick side unless the engine is very worn. Any 5 or 0W-30 may be fine in a newer engine. Some as myself would at least try a 20 wt. oil. It works very well in the Maranello, less wear in oil testing than the 5W-40 Shell Helix Ultra as specified.

For the race track 5W-40 Red Line is used by some but it is not necessary for the usual driver unless somehow you can get the oil up to 300 F in the sump. I know one person in Texas who raced using Red Line 30 wt. oil in his 355 with no problems.

aehaas