Making a Wood Propeller | FerrariChat

Making a Wood Propeller

Discussion in 'Aviation Chat' started by CLamboSHI, Dec 20, 2010.

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  1. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    #1 CLamboSHI, Dec 20, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2010
    I know there are many experienced and invaluable people here who may be able to offer me advice on fabricating my own propeller. For a long time, I have always wanted a nice wooden prop as a decorative piece for the man room or the garage. I am wondering if any people here have any personal experience with prop fabrication that may have tips to help me out.

    I do not want to build something that is functional. I am hoping to end up with something that is aesthetically and looks authentic. I have spent quite a bit of time searching the net for pictures, blueprints, videos, and books on prop fabrication and have found some pretty decent material. Youtube has a couple videos from the show How Its Made that are insightful. I still feel like there may be more info to know before I start carving wood. Anyone here have any advice?
     
  2. Bob Parks

    Bob Parks F1 Veteran
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    I have some small drawings of a beautiful old propellor and I know an expert prop maker. I could ask him if he has any full sized drawings or data.
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  3. Tim Wells

    Tim Wells Formula Junior

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    #3 Tim Wells, Dec 20, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2010
    For what you are doing, you could just use titebond wood glue and stack up a bunch of boards with nice grain, say mahogany, walnut or curly maple. Just glue and clamp up in a stack with wide enough lumber to get the blade width you want.

    With a straight edge from corner to opposite corner draw a line twice so that you have an X across the whole thing. This will mark the center. Now draw a straight line down the middle from one end to the other to make a center line. Drill a hole in the center of the board 1/4" dia to start.

    Now take a piece of poster board and draw a center line down its length and draw a blade and hub on it, just one blade not both. Punch a hole in the pattern you just made where the center of the hub is and trace one blade on the board stack using that hole with a dowel (or just another pencil) to hold it in the right place. Just spin that pattern around 180 and trace the other blade, lining up the center line.

    Now you have something you can cut out on the band saw, then once you have the outline cut, turn that to whatever angle you see fit to get the taper of the blade roughed in on the band saw. Now you can take a drawknife to it or rasps, belt sander or whatever you have.

    The back side of the blades should be flat; not flat to the hub but flat to the desired pitch you put into it when you hogged the meat off at that angle you chose with the band saw. The taper from leading edge thickness to trailing edge is done on the front side and will show all those pretty laminations. Smooth it all out, stain it with medium brown Fiebings leather dye or other alcohol based stain like Solarlux (available at woodcraft stores) that won't raise the grain. Wipe it on with a rag till you get the desired color. If it's too dark, wipe with a rag wet with denatured alcohol, which is also good for blending splotchy dye application so it's all even.

    Polyurethane it and you're done. Hang on wall above fireplace, open beer, drink responsibly.

    This is just a readers digest version of how to do it for cosmetics only. I paid Ted Hendricks a visit years ago to learn the craft and that is "very basically" how he did it process wise.

    He had a furniture pattern duplicator that he modified into making props and that thing ate that wood away in a hurry. He had patterns hanging all over the walls for tracing different designs. Lots of RV series homebuilts out there with his props pulling them through the air.
     
  4. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    #4 CLamboSHI, Dec 20, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2010
    Awesome info Tim, thank you very much for that.

    At this point, I have decided to get some finish grade pine to just play around with. Its not expensive and its softer, so shaping will be a bit easier. When I get something I am ok with I can use that pine spinner to shape a second prop. I think my second one will be where I use a fancy wood, like walnut, mohogany, or beech.

    I went to the hobby store and bought an RC prop that I can reference for pitch. I am still trying to find a good shape to go with.

    Bob, I would be grateful for anything you can offer. I dont indend to have this be my first and only prop. I would love to make more.

    I appreciate the help guys!
     
  5. Bob Parks

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    This is really funny because the guy that I said was a friend is indeed Ted Hendrickson . I have his phone number so I will see if he is still interested. I might add that a real wooden propellor was made up of alternating layers of soft wood/hard wood...spruce or maple and then a layer of walnut, then a layer of soft wood. Clear varnished after shaping gives you a beautiful pattern in the laminations. I'll dig up the drawings that I have of aDH-4 prop that has a lovely scimitar-like shape to it.
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  6. Tim Wells

    Tim Wells Formula Junior

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    #6 Tim Wells, Dec 21, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2010
    That'll be a pretty one. Much classier than a straight looking thing but something like an old PT-22 prop ain't bad with the metal edges with that 70 year old patina.

    There's a little, thin, blue colored book he gave me that you can buy that tells how to make a prop. I used to see them at the aviators store when I'd fly down to Boeing field but I don't know if that place even exists anymore. There used to be a little book store up to Arlington that may have it.
     
  7. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
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    I have a WW-I book on the theory and practice of propeller making, but someone has to be really interested for me to dig it out of tons of WW-I stuff.

    Taz
    Terry Phillips
     
  8. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    #8 CLamboSHI, Dec 22, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2010
    I have seen a book like that. While doing my research, I found a book available online from the National Archives website or the Library of Congress website. I was able to find a nice blueprint from the book.


    Here is a nice looking airscrew. I may try to duplicate it.

    http://www.worldwar1aeroplanesinc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=534
     
  9. Bob Parks

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    There it is in all it's perfection! I might add that Ted Hendrickson used a clever press for gluing the laminations, the bottom and top press pieces were made of " U" girder beams in which the laminated prop all glued was placed. pressure was supplied by a fire hose under the lower beam and then pumped up to high pressure and the prop sat in there until the glue had set.
     
  10. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    #10 2NA, Dec 25, 2010
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    More than ten years ago my dad (who lived in a rural part of northern Wisconsin), was taking a walk near his place and found this lying in the ditch. It's 78 inches long and appears to be laminated mahogany. Pretty nicely done although there's a poorly done repair to the end that is touching the floor.

    I can't imagine that this was ever anything but a wall hanger.

    He used to joke about going back out to look for the rest of the plane. :D
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  11. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    Any markings or stamps?
     
  12. Bob Parks

    Bob Parks F1 Veteran
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    2NA, that appears to be the same prop for which I have drawings, same blade layout, et al. I would guess that it was a real prop used on something because sometimes they didn't have brass leading edges and tips. I saw an American Eagle with a walnut prop that didn't have brass on it. Look for stamps and markings on the hub.
     
  13. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    #14 2NA, Dec 25, 2010
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    Here are closeups of both sides of the hub. No stamped markings but an obvious "witness mark" from being bolted to something.

    Funny you mentioned walnut, that's what I first thought it was.
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  14. Bob Parks

    Bob Parks F1 Veteran
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    I would guess that that propellor was used on some kind of engine by virtue of the impressions of the hub plates. I think it is a real propellor but I have never seen one with only four bolt holes.
     
  15. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    Prop update.

    Before I spent the money (way way more than I expected) on hardwood for a full sized prop, I decided to build a scale version of one from basswood that I purchased at a craft store. It ended up looking great. Its about 15 inches long and is perfectly to scale.

    I started looking into the prices of the hardwood I would need to make this thing and was blown away. I figured it would be a couple hundred bucks. I am finding out it may be quite a bit more than that to get a full sized prop.

    I think I may end up building one 5 1/2 feet long to help lower costs. Walnut is very expensive in case you all didnt know.
     
  16. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    Try cabinet or furniture makers in your area. Sometimes you can collect some nice scraps, possibly for free. If you have access to a jointer and a planer you could make an interesting glue-up from a bunch of small pieces. If it's just for show it doesn't have to be a big solid piece first.
     
  17. Bob Parks

    Bob Parks F1 Veteran
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    Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and check the pine and hemlock finished wood. They have 1 X 10 almost clear pine that doesn't cost a helluva lot and the hemlock is pretty good too.
     
  18. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    #19 CLamboSHI, Feb 14, 2011
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  19. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    Add some appropriate graphics and a little patina and it will be hard to tell from a real antique.
     
  20. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    I may come back to this one and do something like that later on. As for now, I am going to focus on making another one that is an exact replica of this one-

    http://www.collectors-edition.com/Holzpropeller/Fertig-4.jpg
     
  21. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    #22 CLamboSHI, Nov 17, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have been working on the second prop for a few months now. I am making a Axial reproduction prop from a Fokker D.VIII. There is a guy in germany who produces replica WW1 aircraft who has made a number of these props. He posts a lot of his info in various WW1 aircraft forums. After a lot of research, I was able to take a small technical drawing he has posted in a few places and scale it up. Its not quite the same size as the original airscrews, but fairly close. The 1:1 scale prop is about 8' 6''. I wanted to fit it in my living room so I scaled all the technical info to end up with a prop 7 feet long.
    A lot of the work so far has been reproducing technical drawings and making templates. It took me probably a month to find 7 layers of wood that were clear enough to build with. The layers are walnut, birch, walnut, white oak, walnut, birch, and walnut. At this point, I have taken the templates, transferred the drawings to the layers, and cut them into their rough shapes. I will begin laminating the layers this weekend.
    The process there is to do 1 layer at a time, starting from the middle and working out. Each piece will require a day to cure before the next is added. After that, the fun begins.
    I have never done wood working quite like this, so everything so far has been a learning experience. Here are some recent pictures. More to come, I am sure.
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  22. CLamboSHI

    CLamboSHI Karting

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    #23 CLamboSHI, Nov 17, 2011
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  23. Bob Parks

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    Man that's pretty! The engine is an original Mercedes from what I can see and the prop that is being constructed is beautifully done so far but don't spare the clamps and strong even clamping. Are you using a resorcinol glue? Great looking stuff.
     
  24. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    I like it. Bob is right, don't skimp on clamps. Borrow or buy as many as you can. 20 clamps on the longer pieces would not be too many.
     

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