Main Battery Switch in a 360 Spider

You will erase the radio code. You will also erase the adaptive memory of the engine management system and that should be avoided whenever possible. Cars that have batteries shut off regularly have a higher incidence of check engine lights. Modern cars really do not like being powered down and it should have a battery tender installed and used rather than being shut off. The Ferrari technical department is not in favor of the cars having battery switches but production does it anyway. They consider that switch to be for my use and not yours.

In the shop we do not even turn the battery off when we pull motors, I dislike doing it that much.

 

Radio code and clock; I regularly shut my CS and 430 Spider down in the winter on and off as have super light batteries, no problems thus far

 

I smoked for 25 years. No problems thus far.

And besides electronically the US car is a different car and no comparisons can be made.

 

Yep in Europe they are 6V

 

Good point. Sorry for off topic but i wanted to tell you many times - your avatar of N.Nolte is awesome

6 V ??!!

 

You'll need the radio code. I shut mine off if I'm not going to drive it for a while. Brian is right about losing whatever memory it has developed as far as the engine goes. My car always runs a little differently after I shut it off and power it back on. In a few cases, I had to do it to clear some sort of stuck valve or something (I suspect the secondary exhaust valve, but I could be wrong).

When you power the car back on for the first time, turn the key until the car goes on and wait about 60 seconds. I believe (Brian can correct me if I'm wrong here) that the car has to go through some sort of sequence or something with some valves. If you listen carefully, you can hear some clicks and stuff happening right after you turn it on.

I also try to go through a complete "warm up" for the motor right after I turn the car back on, so that the ECU can record the entire warm up process (again, some speculation here). In other words, turn the car on, wait about 60 seconds. Then start the car, let it idle for about 1 minute, then drive it under 4K RPM's and bring it completely up to temp.

Just my 2 cents on the subject.

I agree a battery tender is probably the way to go, since it would allow you to avoid having to completely clear the memory map for the motor.

Ray

 

And positive earth!