Loud Ticking while idling

While there are many factors which can cause this (you'd need to elaborate further) often on the 360 the ticking is caused from an air leak, either from the air intake gaskets or from the exhaust header gaskets.

 

It could also be a crack in the header. If you have a stethoscope or similar device put it up to the header on each side and see if it is coming from there. If you don't have a stethoscope you can get a cheap one or even borrow one at many car parts places or buy one cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. I hope it is not that but instead something simple but I have an OEM set available that have been tested if you need them. Just PM me.

 

the last tick i had in the cs turned out to be the water pump. fwiw

 

Might also be the secondary butterfly valves. Does it sound a bit like tappets?

With the engine off, explore under the plenum cover on either side (approx mid point front to back on the outer side) and see if you can find the valve actuators. Once you find them you'll notice you can operate them manually. Once you're familiar with operating them re-start the engine and operate the valves again. If all goes quiet when you do this then you have your issue, if not, it's something else!

 

If it's not too loud, it's normal. lifters.

 

It's a bomb! Quick, drive it to my house and leave it with me for a few months while I difuse it.

 

Lifter tick usually goes away after the lifters pump up and is not something I would expect to happen suddenly, unless only one has gone bad.

 

could also be you're low on oil. When I would autox my old m3 by the end of the day the car was ticking loudly while idling. After the cruise home at 70mph no tick at all. Take the car out for a nice 30 mile cruise on the highway and see if it's still ticking.

 

With a dry sump system, the oil in the tank has to be pretty low before it would start affecting anything that would make noise. Probably at least 3 liters or so.

 

what's the difference between dry sump and whatever is in normal cars? I didn't realize ferrari's had a different pump. I'm assuming it's more performance oriented?

 

wikipedia has an excellent description of dry sump lubrication. just copy and paste and it will be explained there. essentially it's typically only found in race car engines as it moves the sump off to the side (instead of underneath) thereby allowing the engine to have a lower center of gravity. the problem is it requires more complex piping, more oil, and can cause difficulty just getting a reliable reading on the dipstick (engine has to be running and oil at a particular temp to really get an accurate reading, unlike most cars where you just check the dipstick cold)

 

RMani- The main difference between a dry sump and a wet sump is that the oil being pumped into the engine comes from a separate dry sump oil tank, and not the sump under the engine. A scavenge pump (or pumps) returns the oil in the sump to the dry sump tank. Because of this separate tank, the oil is usually less aereated and lower oil levels are also better tolerated. Capacity in dry sump systems is usually higher than for wet sump systems. In automotive applications capacities vary from something like 8 liters in early 911s to 16 liters in a Ferrari Daytona. Most modern Ferraris have a capacity of 10-12 liters. A typical wet sump system would have a 4-6 liter capacity.

Like FTA said, they are more expensive, but do allow a much shallower sump for lowering the engine and CG.

 

I asked that same question back when I had the 430 before the scud, to the dealer. They stated that the small ticking sound that I was hearing was from the fuel injectors. But that was more of a ticking sound rather than a tapping sound that you get from a sticky lifter. Just thought I would add to your list of noises

 

thanks for the explanation taz and fta! More cool stuff I never knew about Ferraris!