458 Looking for input on battery/tender options

From the battery tender perspective, a CTEK 7002 and a 458 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-353-12-Volt-Battery-Charger/dp/B000FRLO9Y and https://www.ebay.com/itm/183641012432. This is what I use. The 458 tender that came with my car was the equivalent of a CTEK 4.3 and is pretty much worthless.

From a battery replacement perspective, please read any of Ray John's discussions on the Braille battery (Braille i48CS) or other discussions of an Antigravity battery, much less need for the battery tender.

 

My sense is this is a pretty regular thread so you could try looking for others' previous experience

 

if you want to use a battery tender you do NOT want the 458 or 430 OEM products. You want a CTEK 7002 or MXS5 with the comfort connect 458 adapter. They 430/458 tenders are re-branded CTEK 4.3 tenders and they simply do not work as well as the 7002 or MXS5. The 7002 and MXS5 will show you all the tests that the tender runs and get the battery back up to full much, much faster:

STEP 1 DESULPHATION
Detects sulphated batteries. Pulsing current and voltage, removes sulphate from the lead plates of the battery restoring the battery capacity.
STEP 2 SOFT START
Tests if the battery can accept charge. This step prevents that charging proceeds with a defect battery.
STEP 3 BULK
Charging with maximum current until approximately 80% battery capacity.
STEP 4 ABSORPTION
Charging with declining current to maximize up to 100% battery capacity.
STEP 5 ANALYSE
Tests if the battery can hold charge. Batteries that can not hold charge may need to be replaced.
STEP 6 RECOND
Choose the Recond program to add the Recond step to the charging process. During the Recond step voltage increases to create controlled gassing in the battery. Gasing mixes the battery acid and gives back energy to the battery.
STEP 7 FLOAT
Maintaining the battery voltage at maximum level by providing a constant voltage charge.
STEP 8 PULSE
Maintaining the battery at 95–100% capacity. The charger monitors the battery voltage and gives a pulse when necessary to keep the battery fully charged

https://www.ctek.com/storage/28170E5A4DF8DDE255F2544A55F5C421179A3398C557729443D3E9C908F0382E/d4c71f1fcf354b37bdfb3841d00adafd/pdf/media/01d8e64db81c4259bda89213323dad93/MXS_5.0-manual-low-UK-EN.pdf

If you do not want to use a tender and are ok spending $2-3K, then the Braille i48CS sounds like a great choice (https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/braille-lithium-ion-battery-i48cs-group-48-size-just-18-lbs-great-standby-time.590678/). For less money, but still time off from the tender, https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/antigravity-battery-on-458.623367/.

 

Rule of thumb. If the battery is 4 or more years old, it’s time to replace it, regardless of whether it “seems” ok as it will fail soon.
You can go the expensive battery route or replace it with an Interstate AGM battery. The tenders mentioned above will work.
The tenders mentioned above, I believe, will not work on a lithium battery so make sure you know what battery you are buying and which tender is appropriate.
Drive the car once a week and you won’t have to worry about a tender, otherwise, definitely keep a tender on the battery or you will go out to a car with a dead battery.


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I have had my 7002 Cytec for about 3 yrs now after using the Factory model for approx 1,5 yrs. The 7002model has had no problems nor battery issues. My car a 15 Italia & driven approx 25 to 50 miles once a week with little or no red lights or stop & go traffic. The current battery other than when initially put on the factory unit had hestency to start on the weekly use routine. This problem was totally rectified with the chge to the 7002 unit. The Interstate AGM battery has had no problems since the chge to the 7002 unit. The Interstate AGM nearing the 4 yr mark will be replaced this fall as a safety precaution,not a neccessity priority. Incidently shop the 7002 & the adaption to fit the 458 as it is no where near the 350.00 you quoted as a repacement for the lousy stock unit. It like the factory unit can be wall mounted. Since I installed garage shelfing I can no longer use passenger access to unit plug in so now run it via drivers side to passnger battery receptacle.

 

Ctek mxs 5 and an adaptor from eBay. Works really well. The oem unit is substandard.

 

In your case I'd look for a solution which negates the tender completely.

Get an AntiGravity battery. It has a built in shut down feature which never lets it drain completely. If it shuts down, you just hit the button of the included keyfob and you are good to go.

The battery for the 458 is the H6 Group 48 size. Just get the 60 ah version. It can sit for a few weeks without even going into shut down mode.

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I have a 2013 458 Spider with the original battery and use the original "subpar" factory tenders. I've had a couple of problems starting in the last couple of years, but I have a feeling it's more me NOT letting the computers talk to each other, after a fairly long no start period- like two months. Since the last time I had a weird start, I purposely delay starting the car for at least ten seconds after turning on the key. I've noticed if I drive the car regularly, there's no issues, but it doesn't like two month breaks between uses.

There is the SAME slot in the drivers side door to run the charger cable through as the passenger side, so one doesn't need to worry about only sticking the cable out the passenger side. It's just a small round dimple in the door for the wire to route through- a pain to find since you have to look under the door to see it.

Yesterday I just spent $114.00 on a new Interstate battery for the 458 while I was picking up another battery for my 328GTB. I don't think I'm going to install it until my original just doesn't work anymore. It's gone eight years at this point. I had a battery last 18 years on my freightliner truck! I always leave my car on a tender, and with eight years history, I can't complain.