Liqui Moly engine additives

Liqui Moly is one of the better companies when it comes to chemical additives actually working, but I would question what problem you are trying to solve with an additive? We would sort of need that information to start with.

Without starting a huge debate about which oil is best, I personally prefer to just find an oil with the correct spec. for an application and not worry about additives.

The only additive I've ever used is Redline Engine Break-In Additive - when I was breaking in a freshly rebuilt engine.

 

I don't know how anyone would be able to know if an oil additive was beneficial. You'd have to have a meaningful sample size of engines, test and control groups, and engines run under identical conditions for identical mileage. Some guy posting on the internet "I add a bottle at every oil change, it works great!!!" is utterly meaningless.

 

I used it once in my 348. I don’t know if it helped but I’ll tell you what it did do, it foamed my oil.

now I only run this https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-premium-protection-10w-40-100-synthetic-motor-oil-amo/

 

People get confused between gas an oil additives being "snake oil" products. Quality gas additives are almost universally beneficial (virtually never snake oil), because they provide some degree of cleaning and they don't have any meaningful downsides.

The effectiveness of oil additives is highly variable and probably pretty random. Whether an oil additive works at all, or even whether it is a positive or a negative -- will depend on which specific oil you happen to be running. Quality oil manufacturers spend a lot of time getting their oil formulations exactly correct based upon their own testing. Quality oils are already optimized as perfectly as they can be -- adding anything to that already optimized oil can through off the balance and easily make it worse, even if the additive contains "good" ingredients. It's just impossible to make an additive that will be beneficial to any oil you happen to be using. To me, it's much better to choose a quality oil and forget oil additives.

The only exception is if you are looking to "fix" something. Supposedly, this Cummins Restore oil (https://www.theautopian.com/cummins-has-a-super-fancy-oil-meant-to-kick-engine-rebuilds-down-the-road-heres-how-it-works/) can help an engine with stuck rings by dissolving carbon deposits. I know nothing about this stuff, but somebody I respect says that under the right conditions it can help with an engine that has very heavy carbon deposits.

Something to clean up deposits a hundred before an oil change maybe could help. As far as additives to make oil work "better" over the entire oil cycle -- I don't think that works just because you'd have to know the exact composition of an oil to improve it (something the manufacturer can't know when they make the additive). I don't think a "one size fits all" additive can improve things for the reasons stated.

 

Ferrari engines almost never reach end of life because of wear of the lubricated parts.
Rings and ring lands are not dependent on lubrication. Cylinder wear from rings is not lubrication related. Valve stem and guide wear are not lubrication related.
Those are why the engines are rebuilt.

What are you hoping to achieve with oil additives? Bearing wear? Cam wear? Piston skirts? Those are typically still functioning perfectly when engines get rebuilt.

 

I use a Lucas Oils additive which has full Zinc, a lot of the oils these days do not have Zinc which is incredibly bad for engines such as our Ferrari's ...

 

90% of Lucas products are snake oil, its a marketing organization. Lots of tests on BITIG going back since late 90s where their oil additives render the oil useless, a foaming mess. I stay clear of all Lucas products.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/lucas-oil-stabilizer.128365/


Amsoil z-rod and premium have ZDDP elemental averages Phosphorus - 1350ppm, Zinc -1425ppm, and Sulfur - 3800ppm.

 

I use mobil 1 euro blend oil as it has higher zinc content, but there are probably others out there. I know valvoline vr1 also has higher zinc content. I'd think it's better to use an oil specifically formulated with that in mind than a different oil and an additive, but I'm not an expert.

 

Man I was quoted $180 for a case of Amsoil last night. It was 150 last year.

 

So...Bidenomics has now reached Amsoil? Never underestimate Brandon's ability to F--- something up.

 

I have not even read why you say that but I completely agree.

 

God only knows why you say that but its proof positive that advertising trumps knowledge every time.

 

Sounds like it's safer to stick with Lucas electrical components

 

I've had 3 bottles of ZDDPlus sitting on the shelf for a long time. I think it's fairly highly regraded to raise ZDDP levels for flat tappet engines since most modern oils have reduced ZDDP content.

I've heard that ZDDP levels were required to be reduced because it is not good for catalytic converters, so maybe ZDDPlus is not good to add to a modern engine. But for vintage cars, it's probably good to use if you are running a modern oil that has reduced ZDDP content (e.g. <1200).

I've been running Shell Rotella in the 330GT, which I think still has sufficient ZDDP, so I haven't added the ZDDPlus.

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Oil prices are pretty crazy. I've been using Driven DT40, which is highly recommended for my 996, but it's $190 a case. Now Driven DI40 seems to be they superseding recommendation for the 996 (even though the 996 doesn't have direct injection) and the DI40 is around $220 a case.

 

This is all you need. I use the 50 weight in my two air-cooled 911's and the 40 weight in the 355.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-premium-protection-20w-50-100-synthetic-motor-oil-aro/

 

I have not found this to be the case at all, no foam in any of my vehicles with the Lucas products....I've been using Lucas products for decades and never has anything but good results.

 

Obviously I'm an idiot and have no idea what I'm talking about...

 

Well you still believe Ferraris need more ZDDP.
I rest my case.

 

Thank you.