Hi all, my 96 355 has just been in for an engine out service, before the service the car stated going into limp mode once it warmed up and would sound like a bag of nails + misfiring , it would then stay in limp mode regardless if you started the car back up. during the engine out service the car had All belts done Cambelt hydraulic tensioners Cambelt tensioners All oils Full service kit, spark plugs etc 2 new coil packs I’ve done just over 100 miles since, during which the cars gone into limp mode 4 times, however all is fine again once you turn the engine off and back on, this may be a coincidence but it’s only done it whilst stuck at a set of traffic lights. any starting points to look for? I’ve tried using the OBD port in the past but it’s never shown anything
It’s actually 200 miles I’ve done not 100, I’ve had the car back since yesterday. I’ve had a drive out for a couple of hours again today and it hasn’t gone into limp mode, however I have been randomly turning the engine off then back on in hope that this prevents it going into limp, I only did this 3 times over the 2 hours, this may be a red herring though I’m not sure. there’s no lights, although there no bulbs either, I was told they were removed because they were forever coming on since it had the TUBI fitted. I’ve had the car 2 years and have put around 10.000 miles on it since so I’m happy to believe there wasn’t a mass cover up regarding the port, it was a while ago I looked into it, I seem to recall 2 pins needing to be wired together, which mine already looked to have been done when I looked at it, however the reader stil wouldn’t pick anything up. It’s a 5.2
What version 355? Was the Tubi also just fitted at your recent service? Are both the SDL and CEL bulbs removed or just the SDL bulbs?
1996 355 spider LHD 5.2 Sorry should have been more clear The Tubi exhaust was fitted by a previous owner, I realised no lights came on when Ignition was on other than the battery light and oil pressure LED was told the tubi kept sending the lights on but as I said, I’ve had the car 2 years and 10k miles without any major issues
I may stand corrected, but replacing the stock muffler with a Tubi shouldn't activate any lights, assuming it was done right and there are no leaks. The CELs/SDLs are usually due to when the cats are loosing efficiency or changed/removed, the bypass valve is problematic or the thermocouplers or ECUs are problematic. This is for the exhaust system anyway, there are other reasons for CELs/SDLs as well. I'd start by installing the dashboard lights and getting a code reader, otherwise you're essentially working with one eye closed and the other eye squinting.
Is that a Tubi with or without cats? https://www.tubistyle.it/ferrari-f355-tubi-style-exhaust-system/?lang=en
Although I believe it makes less of a difference on your model, what version/market -- euro (standard) or US? You can decode your VIN here: www.red-headed.com +1 to everything that Phil posted (assuming that only a Tubi muffler replaced the stock muffler and no other bodgery went on ). On your model (Motronic), the system goes into limp home mode whenever the SDL ECUs think there is a problem (whether there really is a cat over-temp problem or if just the SDL ECU is bad). Monitoring if the self-test of the SDL lights is always working correctly at first key "on" can give a clue if an SDL ECU is flaky as can getting an SDL immediately at cold start up (when it's impossible for a cat to heat up that quickly). The next time it goes into limp home mode, you can also do a visual to see if either cat is really overheating -- glowing red at the exhaust exit, things nearby smoking, etc.. I'm unsure if unplugging an SDL ECU always forces limp home mode or not, but you might check to see if they are plugged in or not. Don't visit this forum often, but I have to think there would be some more discussion here, and, if also now catless, how to eliminate the SDL ECUs and not get the limp home mode.
I second the advice of replacing all the missing bulbs, check codes, clear codes, and drive to get new codes. Sounds like cat ecu's or thermocouples. Could even have the bypass and right side ecu connectors swapped by mistake after the major service. Keep us posted.
1. You need a better mechanic that knows the 355 like the back of his hands. 2. Read the engine codes. There are codes that do not cause the CEL light to come on. It will tell you a lot. Then tell us what error codes you have. It's gonna be Pxxxx
You should listen to the voices of experience and reason above. I also agree you should get an OBD reader, and put the bulbs back where they belong on your dash. But for me, and at least one guy/poster in some of the other threads you will find here about SlowDown lights, it is a symptom of a weak battery. Here is my story/experience. Normally 100% of the time, when not driven, my car is on a battery tender. My ‘97 has twice shown the SlowDown light. Most recently, was about a month ago when it had sat for 2-3 weeks, in a shop, having the front bumper removed and resprayed. While driving home from the shop, like you stuck in traffic, the SlowDown light came on. When home I started reading threads here, and there was a lot of good advice. But one guy mentioned that a weak battery, for him, caused this problem. That got me thinking about the car just sitting for weeks (and maybe being started only long enough to move it in and out of the shop, etc). Here’s what I want to tell you, if my battery gets low (Yes it probably needs replacement), I will get the SlowDown lights. Like you, I thought it had to do with restarting the car, would make it go away, etc. Because it happened once before, but then just disappeared. But my recent reading says that for me, it probably is a symptom of a weak battery. When I got back to the car, which had been on the battery tender, the SlowDown light did not appear, and has not returned in 500 or more miles of recent driving. I know I sound a bit crazy, and not much help, as I can’t find the other thread where this other poster mentioned his battery, but wth, another idea for you.
Maybe just for entertainment, put the car on an SD1 and let it run up to temp. Watch the engine temp reported by the ecu.
A brief slow down light warning may not log a code but will put the engine into limp mode. As others have said, you need those bulbs fitted (and run a mile from anyone who recommends doing this). An after-market exhaust should not interfere with the operation of the slow down light system. A faulty cat ecu or thermocouple will cause intermittent faults, sometimes only for fractions of a second but enough to trip the limp mode.
Late to this party but, FWIW, frankly that doesn't sound like limp mode. My experience with limp mode is idles lower, sound different but smooth, poor throttle response, loss of power.
I have a '97 5.2 with Tubi exhaust (and cats). No issues and no need to remove CEL bulbs. If it were my car, I'd tow and not drive it back to a shop. That 'bag of nails' sound is clearly a mechanical noise, most surely coming from inside your engine. Belts or seized bearing don't sound like nails and there'd be smoke.
