Leather care for Ferrari ...and sofas

I've used Griott's on my furniture with good results. Originally bought it for the 355.

John

 

I am in the furniture industry. That question is asked by a lot of my customers.

It should be ok; however, ALWAYS do a spot test first.

Use a microfiber cloth and put leather conditioner directly on cloth versus pouring it directly on the furniture.
Next, choose an inconspicuous area (back of sofa bottom corner for example) and apply to a 6" by 6" area. Wait several hours to a day to verify there are no bad reactions (leather lifting, spotting, etc).
Assuming it is ok, apply at least 4 times a year. Apply more often if it receives more direct sunlight, is near heat/cooling vents, or receives very heavy use. Leather is a natural product, just like your skin so the more you condition/moisturize, the better protected it is and the longer it will last.

Also, be careful not to use leather "cleaner" too often. Leather cleaners are often quite strong and are most often meant for specific spot cleaning and stains. Some leather cleaners will actually lift the leather color.

Instead, use leather "conditioners" for maintenance. Using a leather conditioner regularly will help take care of subtle daily buildup of dust/dirt, will help minimize small scratches and markings and will add more years of life to your leather furniture and car seats.

 

Leatherique.

 

a gent who does interiors for pebble beach quality resorations tells me 90 % of all leather care products contain silicone which plugs the pores and hastens deterioration . Good hides ( connely or equal)are cured using fish and or other oils which allow the leather to breathe indefinately as long as sunlight is not a factor. If it is, he suggested using only a non silicone based UV protector as often as is reccomended and determined by exposure time to UV. he went on to say that customers who come to him for an interior say things like " I dont understand it i never drive the thing ? i merely go out to the garage one an month and condition the leather and now its all hard and shiny!"

Gary
8394
espada

 

Tough one....sounds like the leather is not as "sealed" as most...so it can more readily absorb skin oil, dirt, etc...and leather care products. I would contact the seller and maker for advise, you might also try a local leather repair specialist...since they see it all, and have the most experience.

 

Hide Food. I've used it on leather on my cars ranging from 1967-2003, and a priceless (to me) club chair from the 1930's, and it has never disappointed me.

As suggested above, though, I do a test spot when possible. Hide Food has always out-performed Leatherique and Lexol for me.

 

Just to throw a wrench in the thread I can say that "hide care" (no longer called hide food) is derided by many an automotive detailer. I've not used it so I cannot comment personally.

This leather sounds uncoated, and therefore the best choice IMHO are the products from Leather Master. It is my personal choice on my 360.
Use LM "soft cleaner" once a year or so to clean the hide, then apply LM "Vital" and LM "Protection cream" every few months to keep it totally supple.

Leatherique is great also but really is a PITA to apply on an entire sofa, not to mention difficult to "bake" out in the sun on a sofa. If your leather is in new condition it may not be worth the trouble.

I once called "Classic Leather"-the oldest maker of top end leather furniture in the U.S. and asked them what they recommended for leather care. Their answer was LeatherMaster.

And no, I don't work in the leather care industry

 

When did Hide Food change its name? First I've heard of that.

I'm not sure why Leatherique has so many fanboys. It's a lot of work for the results achieved and is overpriced in my opinion.

I'll give Leathermaster a try. I've never heard of it, but I'm always willing to try something new.

 

I too am interested in the Leather Master products...but like Leatherique...not inexpensive...but what truly good products are?

 

Using non-silicone based products is the KEY. All silicone does is clog the pores of the leather and trap dirt. Further applications only push the dirt even deeper into the leather. If the product contains silicone well........ BTW Leatherique might be expensive but the results, when used correctly, are amazing! No affiliation, just a satisfised user.

 

Anyone use Spinneybeck Conditioner/Cleaner?

http://www.spinneybeck.com/shop/productDescription.aspx?ProductID=1800

 

not in the leather industry although way back, I tanned my own skins/hides/furs and did Taxidermy( background also is Chemistry). Talk about work. 15 hours of muscle. and you cant stop cuz youre tired. Curing/drying Leather doesnt wait.

You can put all the leather 'revitalizers in a can' on leather all day long, but doesnt matter much. Light or oxygen will get to the lignins eventually, and break it down. Biggest single thing you can do is keep it out of the sun and heat. Watch out for advertizer's claims. Yup, Im a skeptic. You become that way............

 

so what products are out there that do not contain silicone

Gary
espada
8394

 

Not many....Leatherique for sure does not have silicone

 

What about Neats Foot Oil! Some claim it attacks stitching, however, I've never had anything come apart on me in 30 years.

 

Ditto. Been using it for years.

 

The hides used in modern car interiors are very different from those used on good quality furniture, and thus ask for different treatments/maintenance.

The leather in your car has to fullfill a list of demands that is sheer endless, and which in the end causes for the manufacturer/tanner to be forced to applya rather heavy coating of very specific finishes. That results in leather that breathes rather poorly and has an equivalent ability to absorb what you drop on it/apply to it. Most of it stays on top of the finish, where it does nothing.
A good product will penetrate the finish, as it is the finish that gets hard, rather than the hide itself, which is eveident in the cracks that appear on the surface of older leather.

On furniture, there usually are no demands regarding flame retardents and fume-emissions, and the most natural hide used is a full aniline, which is vat-dyed and has no finish on top at all. This type absorbs anything liquid readilly, which means that it also stains easy. It is, however, the most beautiful to look at as it has a nice open structure/appearance, and the most comfortable, as it ascimilates quickestto your body temperature and absorbs whatever your skin produces.
More practical is what is called a semi-aniline, which has a relatively thin coat of finish. The hide is more protected, the finish is not so thick that it closes all the pores and thus the ability for the hide to absorb, but it is much less prone to staining as a full aniline.

There are suitable products for these specific types, but in my opinion 2 factors are important:
1) no silicone content
2) application dispersed in water; applying directly on leather or cloth will give you no control over quantity.

In general: be very careful what you put on your leather, a lot of products do more harm than good, and change the appearance and feel of the material.

My own lounge suite (Cassina) and the ferrari get regularly wiped down with a damp cloth for regular maintenance, sometimes with a little full-cream milk mixed into the water. It does the job admirably well.

I used to market my own leathercare products in Europe, some 25 years ago, which was develloped for me by Stahl, one of the main suppliers to the tanning industry and tested in their own labs and many others. It was a great product, maybe I should getanother batch made up.

I wouldn't be able to advise on what commonly available product to use today, so I stick with water and milk

 

hi;
Ferrari uses "Connolly" leather for the interior except for the special ordered cars.
You may find and use the connolly leather cleaner and leather food in Ebay.

It is very easy application. But i advice you to try it in a cool place without sun light.
Regards;

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Connollys-Hide-Food-Leather-Feed-248ml-Jar-New-/250624765625?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Men_s_Clothes&hash=item3a5a666eb9

[
url]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Connollys-Concentrated-Leather-Cleaner-Leather-/360271085217?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Men_s_Clothes&hash=item53e1d47ea1[/url]
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Connolly has not been making leather since 2002. I believe Ferrari stopped using it sometime before that. They had not made a quality product for many years. Probably had more than a little to do with their demise as a tannery.

 

If you have ever seen the leather care kit from Ferrari, it is made by the same company (in Italy) that makes Leather Masters... Leather Masters is great stuff (IMO). Just don't go to leathermasters dot com unless you like bondage :-/

I guess I would be one of the detailers mentioned in one of the posts who recommends against Conolly Hide Food/Feed. It was designed for aniline leather, and as such, can damage the coated leathers (what modern Ferrari's now have).

In the simplest of terms there are TWO main difference types of leather: coated (pigmented or semianiline) and uncoated (aniline).

When dealing with coated leathers, you are dealing (for the most part) with a synthetic coating applied to the top of the leather. Depending on the quality of the leather this coating can be pigmented (the leather underneath is gray and raw, the coating is responsible for the color) or semi-aniline, in which the leather is tanned and colored, the coating can be colored or clear in this case.

Most leather in most cars (over 95% since 1997) is some for of coated. The number one aspect in caring for coated leather is to keep it clean. Dirt, grime, and grit will abrade (sand away) the coating and can cause it to crack and tear. Use a gentle, water based, cleaner and a soft brush to remove any dirt and grime that builds up.

Coated leather doesn't require 'true' conditioning for the most part. This is okay, since most conditioners are nothing more then UV protectants and waxes anyways, designed to make the leather feel soft. Stay away from heavy oil based conditioners as they may attract dirt and grime and lead to more abrasion.

Cleaning is far more important then conditioning, with modern leather.

If you have aniline leather, then it will benefit greatly from cleaning and conditioning in the more traditional since.

So how do you tell if your leather is coated or uncoated?

You can place a little bead of water on the leather. If the leather absorbs the water then it is uncoated. If the water beads on the leather then it is coated. However uncoated leather that has been conditioned with a wax may bead water also.

You can also lightly scratch the leather. If you can change the texture of the leather by lightly rubbing your fingernail over it is uncoated (almost create a suede like appearance).

As far as leatherique, I love the product, but on freshly coated leathers it is not going to offer much of a benefit. This is because the oils are not going to penetrate the coating and make their way to the hides. On coated leathers that have worn, microscopic cracks form that allows the oil to penetrate the coating and make its way to the hide. It also penetrates the coating in areas where there is stitching or light cracks.

On aniline leathers (uncoated) leatherique will absorb straight into the hide and offer a very nice benefit.

So my recommendations would be to clean often (vacuum and wipe with a damp towel), only using a dedicated leather cleaner when the leather becomes visibly soiled. Condition (protect) after using a dedicated cleaner.

On new cars I recommend leatherique every year or so, but as the leather ages and the coating becomes more porous, I would recommend more frequent applications.

I don't know anything about furniture but would be shocked if there is going to be much difference. I would also be shocked if furniture would be uncoated, but like I said I don't really deal with it too much.

 

I agree

 

Vansons balm has worked very well for me over the years..

http://www.vansonleathers.com/prod-Leather_Condition_Balm_16_oz-19.aspx?