It is quite good. few things: a) make sure you use an equal amount of accelerator or a slight bit more b) mix the two extremely well and then let sit for a few minutes (a few) c) let it set overnight
JB Weld is awesome stuff. Mr. Sticky underwater glue is also very handy to have around. My most impressive use of JB Weld was involving an incident on the cylinder head of a race motor I built years ago. I was assembling the long block on an engine stand. I had installed stainless steel studs into the aluminum cylinder head - and I was installing the exhaust manifold. As I torqued down the last copper 8mm nut on the exhaust side, I heard a sickening "pop". The nut and 1/2 the stud came out in my hand (I was young and had a bad habit of over torquing things back then). I felt sick. I had probably close to $4000 invested in the motor (and this was back in 1986 or so). So I removed the exhaust manifold and sized up the situation. The stud was broken off flush with the surface of the head where the manifold mates. Okay, no problem. I got out a drill and broken screw extractor. I center punched the stud and put all my weight on the drill and started to drill a hole in the center of the broken stud. With all my weight on the drill, I slipped - @#!$% !!! - the drill bit slipped off the top of the stud and went about 1/2 inch the cylinder head next to the stud and dug a big nasty looking hole before snapping off into the head. !@#$% !@$ !#%&* !@#$% !!!!!! haha. I wanted to cry. I just felt sick. The time and money that went into setting up the head, porting it, etc, etc. I think I ended up having to weld some stock to the stud and using some locking pliers to remove it and the drill bit. It was horrible - it looked like a small mortar had exploded in the hole. The drill had removed so much aluminum that you couldn't repair the threads in the hole. So I called my friend who did most of the serious machine work on the head and asked him if we could heat the head up and weld it or what. He suggested JB Weld. What? Glue? You gotta be kidding me.... you can imagine how hot the stud for the exhaust manifold gets in a situation like this. But he assured me it would hold. So I ended up taking a timesert (one of the best thread repair solutions on the market by the way - http://www.timesert.com ) and inserted it, along with a bunch of JB weld to fill up the holes and damage in the head. I let it cure for about 30 days and then milled everything down perfectly flush. It came out amazing. I continued assembling the motor and torqued the nut down (this time to the proper torque) and everything held just fine. I never had any problem with it at all and ran that motor for several years until crashing the car. JB Weld is good stuff. You can even drill and tap it! Just keep in mind that it doesn't do so well on very slick surfaces (such as plastic). For plastic, Mr. Sticky is amazing stuff - you can even repair boat hulls (while the boat is in the ocean) with it! Ray
The trick there is dealing with the oil. Unless you get the surface absolutely clean you won't get a permanent bond with anything.
JB Weld is simply a 2 part epoxy with a filler added. If you are disappointed with your results, it's either your expectations or your methods. Not everything can be pasted together, most plastics can. Metals can be pasted together if you don't expect them to retain their original strength as a true weld can. Think applying bubble gum. Think bubble gum a week later having hardened. That's about what JB Weld provides without having to chew a large wad. My last use of JB Weld was to stop the water from leaking out of the 308 washer bottle where the metal pump is attached to the plastic bottle. No pressure or strength needed for the fix - and no more leak.
Agreed, the company was family owned and headed by an elderly gal...if it works, dont change it. A good friend of mine recently purchased the company (JB Weld) and got me samples of all their product line. We just had a discussion about JB Weld a week ago as I was surprised how many related products they made that I had never seen or heard about. That crazy little display at the cash register worked well for the company but now they need to advertise all of the other lines... So many of these products came from the Aerospace program.... As a kid I can remember my father having 2 squeeze bottles he kept in the door of the fridge, early 2 part epoxy from the Apollo days along with a little bottle of the early Eastman version of what became Super Glue. I was amased when I was able to 'glue' the floor pan on my go-kart with the epoxy
JB weld ...We keep it along with A+B Epoxy and Super glue in the fridge and they last until that unfortunate happening occurs.A little of this and a little of that until I can get out the TIG.
I had a friend who had broken a piece off a main bearing cap in a diesel VW Rabbit engine. He repaired it with some JB weld, put it all back together. It ran fine and he managed to sell it as is, but I am afraid the new owner had to have gotten an unpleasant surprise at some time in the future.
Every material has its place when it's matched with the proper application... Even 'snot' has uses --- such as moisturizing my shirt sleeves!!! As far as bonding metal-to-metal (i.e., as an "adhesive"), I wouldn't recommend JB Weld simply because there are other, readily available products out there that are far superior for that application. I also would never use JB for any "structural" application --- in other words, anything that puts stress on the material. I do use JB as a metal filler from time to time because it's easy to work with and can be easily shaped (filed, ground, sanded, milled, surformed, etc.) after it sets up. For example, when I replaced the gaskets between the intake runners and cylinder heads (308 engine), the mating flanges of the intake runners had a few large pits in them (from both corrosion and poor, original casting quality). Many attempts were made by myself, and a few professionals, to weld-fill the pits, but there was too much silica in the Aluminum. So, I filled them in with JB, and then sanded flush and smooth. The result was great for what I was trying to do ---- fill in the pits with something that would stick, retain its shape, and tolerate the heat (I used the high-temp version of JB, BTW).
Good advice... In Aerospace we bond "everything-to-everything". And, the expression (joke) we use for what is required to create a successful bond goes as follows --- 10% Adhesive selection 10% Process / method 100% Surface preparation And, yeah, I'm aware this adds up to 120% --- that's the point
I keep a couple of packages of unopened JB weld around. Also use Devcon aluminum putty and titanium putty. The Devcon products are a bit pricey but last forever.
I don't use JB Weld too often at work but yesterday was the exception. I had an cracked engine case cover that was no longer available. After about 1and half hours of surface prep and heating the cover to sweat the oil out of the metal pores. I was ready to apply the product. I will find out this morning the results but I am 99% sure that it will be successful.
JB Weld is an essential oilfield tool. Under heavy pressure and torque too. It's a stopgap, and on non-critical parts is a long-term fix.
I've used Devcon(their complete line) for 40+ years on all types of race cars and series including LeMans,Daytona24, and Sebring...never had a failure from their products...IMO they were the best....don't know if there are any newer better products available in todays. market
So, I could use Devcon or JB Weld to rebuild a broken off piece of aluminum on the inside barrel wall of a Weber? Ciao, George
Specifically it's a DCNF 44. The fuel mixture screw was turned in with too much force. I discovered this upon my rebuild. The inside wall of the bore was compromised. Even though all the pieces were still in place it was just a question of time before they would break off and fall into the cylinder. So, I broke them off thinking I could still have some degree of control over the fuel/air mixture. As it turns out I was wrong. I can always send it to Pierce Manifolds, but why not try to patch it, then redrill the passage. Good idea or bad idea? Wadayathink? Ciao, George
I have used USC All-Metal for body work. Other metal fillers just can't compete with All-Metal. It is an aluminized paste of sorts. You mix a catalyst with it, then you can drill it, tap it, or whatever. It is like a second metal skin. I should be able to fill in the crater area in the bore of the carb. barrel with several layers, wet sanding and reaming out the passage with each layer application. Should work. Any thoughts on that? Ciao, George
