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Jag V12

Discussion in 'United Kingdom' started by Nickt, Feb 1, 2008.

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  1. YellowF50

    YellowF50 Formula Junior

    Feb 15, 2007
    819
    UK
    Full Name:
    K B
    I am impressed by the amount you have acheived in such a short time, from planning to basic layout in a month, faster than any itallian car manufacturer i know.

    Well if you can throw yourself at this and achieve what you have done in a month, I think you would be a pro golfer within 3 months.

    Well atleast you can now go around and welcome the new neighbours to the neighbourhood. lol
     
  2. DKHudson

    DKHudson Formula Junior

    Sep 1, 2004
    438
    Durham, UK
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    David Hudson
    #52 DKHudson, Apr 3, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I am enjoying your fantastic project, keep up the good work.


    I have a couple of thoughts (hopefully helpful) based on structural engineering, I hope any mechanical engineers out there will please jump in and correct some of my base assumptions...

    To explain myself better I need to draw some sketches and write plenty more, but given the fanastic speed you are working at, I reckon I'd better speak now, because you'll have built it by tomorrow!



    So to the points:
    1) a stated by Trevor, the coil over shock units will have quite a short throw and so the dampers may not be effective.
    2) If the dampers are oil filled, then having them flat (or near flat) might not be ideal

    HOWEVER
    3) what I am really concerned about is the stress level on the inclined strut. Just applying structural principles of "resolving the forces"... the force in the strut is:

    F = W / cos A

    where
    F = force in strut (and connection welds)
    W= corner weight of car that that strut is attached to... (MUST be multiplied by a factor of safety to allow for bump shock...)
    A = angle from the vertical.


    Say your corner weight is...
    car 800Kg, with 40% front 60% rear split, divided between two wheels = 170Kg
    factor of safety for bump say x3 (MIN) = 510Kg design load per wheel/suspension strut (peak).

    now apply formula
    A = 0 (ie: strut vertical and above wheel) Force in strut = 510Kg
    A = 10 degrees from vert Force = 518Kg

    A F (Kg)
    0 510
    10 518
    20 543
    30 589
    40 666
    50 793
    60 1020
    70 1491
    75 1970
    80 2937
    82 3665
    84 4879
    86 7311
    88 14613
    90 8325521661585730000 !!!!!! (theoretically infinite)

    The wider the angle between the direction of the force and the restraining strut... the less effective that strut is. To provide enough vertical force, more and more force is induced in the strut and its connections. I would NOT reconmend the connection detail you are suggesting as the forces would be amplified badly, as the struts are too flat.


    The horizontal strut set ups you will have seen on race and supercars look similar to your sketch, but are subtly different to avoid this problem... SEE SKETCHES ATTACHED

    Use of a push rod and load rocker controls how the forces are moved around and are much more effective. There is still amplification of the forces, but in a lesser degree.



    HAVING SAID THE ABOVE, your car will be very light so with a few sums and some very good welds your own arrangement is theoreticall workable. But I fear you are adding the some very highly stressed connections to components you REALLY DO NOT want to come undone!

    Better to look for another idea... say a traditional inclined coil over from the lower wishbone, mounted within the wishbones?


    Yours,

    David
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  3. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    #53 Nickt, Apr 3, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Wow, If I had doubts and i did, you have helped make my mind up :D
    The oil filled struts would need replacing with gas ones, and although i love the look of the "in board" suspension I can't justify the costs.
    If your sums are right, and I have no reason to disbelieve them, how do other cars like the Zonda manage using the 2nd picture in your sketch?
    The attached 3 C12 photos clearly show the damper attached to a bracket on the top wishbone.
    Cheers
    Nick
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  4. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    Actually thinking about it more, if the triangle was 1:1 with the wishbone, and the damper inclined in board, I could maintain the minimum 45 degrees needed for oil filled struts?
     
  5. DKHudson

    DKHudson Formula Junior

    Sep 1, 2004
    438
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    David Hudson
    #55 DKHudson, Apr 4, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Okay, I know what I want to explain, but I'm not sure how best to do it... There are a lot of effects at play here, load, leverage, resolving of forces.

    If you want to understand your design, you have to be able to break it down in your mind and look at parts of the design in isolation, really think about where the forces come from, in what direction and how that will be countered.

    FIGURE 1: my awful drawing of ZONDA suspension.
    FIGURE 2: I have added some arrows to indicate load
    FIGURE 3: here it gets messy... read the notes and move onto my next post...
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  6. DKHudson

    DKHudson Formula Junior

    Sep 1, 2004
    438
    Durham, UK
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    David Hudson
    #56 DKHudson, Apr 4, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    So why does this work, but I say your version doesn't?
    Stictly speaking your version would work (theoretically), but it would transfer the forces differently and be inefficient and very highly stressed. So it is not a good solution.

    Back to forces...

    FIGURE 5: We need to look at direction of forces...


    While the Zonda and others use a rocker (modified top wishbone) to press directly down vertically at the connection to the hub, transfer the forces through that rocker and then into a road spring... your proposed design attached a road spring as a steep angle to press (more or less) back against the hub. Because the spring is so flat it would generate little down force incomparason with the force in the spring, but significant sideways forces. Hence the cnnection would be highly stressed.


    I hope I have explained this clearly. Really I'd rather draw loads and loads of diagrams, but I don't have a scanner at home so that isn't an option. If I am not making sense please ask questions and I try to clarify.





    DISCLAIMER: In this modern world I must cover myself... I am not a engineer specialising in automotive design, I am merely discussing basic structural principles that could be applied in order to understand some of the issues. This is not a full or detailed explaination of the engineering design. I have not checked or analysised any part of your proposed design and can not take any responsibility for this.



    Yours,


    David

    PS: I'm glad to see some diagonal bracing (triangulation) being added to your chassis... alway a good thing.
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  7. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    #57 Nickt, Apr 5, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi David,
    Do you know how you work out what length/strength road springs you need? I am using a set of Koni 8212s (as kindly donated by a lovely fchat subscriber!)

    As for the suspension I am going to use a conventional setup, and copy that of my 308 GT4. In order to get the same wheel track as the Zonda my chassis requires the wishbones to be exactly the same size as the Ferrari! (30cm between chassis and hub)

    Yesterday I finished one rear hub, started the other and fabricated and welded the wishbone pick up points to the rear end.

    If any one wants to donate some road springs, a pedal box or the use of a TIG welder I would be eternally grateful :D

    I am also after a pair of Peugeot diesel turbos

    Also if anyone wants to come round and offer advice that is welcome too!

    Kind regards
    Nick
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  8. DKHudson

    DKHudson Formula Junior

    Sep 1, 2004
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    #58 DKHudson, Apr 5, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017

    No, not really. My engineering knowledge is more structural than mechanical. However I'll have a guess:


    Once you have a feel for you finished vehicle weight you (we) could then have a go at working out the corner weights, from that a few sums would give the basic spring forces needed to support the car.

    The spring length (laden) is going to have be governed by the shock absorbers your have there. ie: the spring (LOADED) will have to be the distance btween the spring pans with the strut say 1/2 extended and the adjustable pan at 1/2 range. From there you'll have to work back to get the length of the unladen spring.

    SPRING LENGTH (laden) = [ UNLADEN LENGTH - (rate x load) ]

    turn the formula around

    UNLADEN LENGTH = [ SPRING LENGTH LADEN + (rate x load) ]

    (Check that the UNLADEN LENGTH is greater than the fully extended length of the damper... otherwise the spring will go slack and mis-seat every time you go over a jump!)

    rate in mm/Kg, or mm/KN (KiloNewton), inches/lb - depending on the units used...
    load expessed in same unit
    ...so if you get springs rated in inches/lb you will have to work out your loads in lbs (or convert Kg into lbs...)


    That will get the car sitting roughly at the correct right hieght (fine tuning done by adjusting the adjustable spring pan). UNFORTUANTELY this is where my engineering knowledge starts to run out. The rate of the spring you choose will govern how hard the suspension feels. I can not really advise on what those rates should be in numbers, I fear trial and error may be required.

    Given that your car is for road use and is very light... you'll want the rear (heavy end) no more than moderately stiff, but the front may actually have to be suprisingly soft, so that you get the suspension to follow the road surface and not skip. Stiff is okay on a race track, but roads are full of bumps and dips and over hard suspension becomes less effective, as the tyres skip and jump.

    For my little Fiat X1/9 the front springs were shortened, but were still quite soft, the damping was set correspondingly soft, tyre pressure were low 18psi and it worked really well! Because the nose was so light (NOTE: x1/9 = 880Kg kerbweight - maybe something similar to your special?)



    OKAY I HAVEN'T DONE THIS BEFORE, but I'll have a GUESS... say we want 4" (100mm) suspension travel on bump say at 2G (2 x gravity vertical acceleration)

    say 800Kg, 40/60% split >> rear 60% x 800 = 480Kg

    so each rear corner 240Kg (standing still)
    look at a 2G bump, 2 x 240Kg and the corner load at 100mm travel is 840Kg


    STANDING CAR = 240Kg

    load in spring (vert effect) = 240 * 300mm / 200mm = 360Kg (vert) = W

    Spring is lying at and angle of 40degree off vert so F = W / cos A = 360 / cos(40) = 762Kg

    Hence the spring needs to generate 762Kg at its standing laden length...



    PEAK LOAD

    Wpeak = 480Kg * 300mm / 200mm = 720Kg

    Fpeak = 760 / cos(40) = 1524Kg

    Hence the spring needs to generate 1542Kg at the bump spring length (fully closed)...



    SUSPENSION travel = 100mm to bump (closed) at the wheel.

    Spring travel = 100 / ( 300/200mm) = 100 * 200 / 300 = 66.7mm (vert)

    Spring closes 61mm from standing to bump (peak load)
    (SEE FIGURE 7 - actually I'd have to go further into the geometry as the end of the spring strut would travel on an arc - but this is near enough for a guess)


    Rate peak - normal = 61mm / (1542 - 762)Kg = 61mm / 762Kg

    Spring rate 12.49Kg / mm OR 0.21mm/kg






    SO back to earlier formula... UNLADEN LENGTH = [ SPRING LENGTH LADEN + (rate x load) ]

    If strut standing is 300mm between spring pans (assumption)

    UNLADEN LENGTH = 300 + (0.21 x 762) = 461mm




    So based on all the above guess work you need a 460mm spring rated to 0.21mm/Kg of the REAR SUSPENSION. The front would need another calculation.

    BUT THIS IS A GUESSTIMATE, NOT ACCURATE... we would have to work with real figures to get a starting point... then I'd stress we are talking a starting point! I reckon you'll still need to try a couple of sets of springs to get the thing to feel right.

    ASSUMPTIONS MADE (ie: engineering guesses!):
    1) weight of car 800Kg
    2) weight distribution 40/60
    3) geometry of rear suspension (length of wishbone, angle of strut, connection point of strut)
    4) geometry of strut, open, standing and closed length
    5) required suspension travel.


    ANYHOW - I hope I have showed roughly how we could go about roughing out the spring rate. Frankly trial and error might be just as quick!




    DISCLAIMER: the above calculation is an EXAMPLE ONLY and does not represent real data and can not be applied to any particular car. This is for discussion purposes only. I am not a mechanical engineer, I am merely discussing engineering principles tha might be applicable for this subject.


    Yours,

    David
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  9. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    #59 Nickt, Apr 6, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  10. DKHudson

    DKHudson Formula Junior

    Sep 1, 2004
    438
    Durham, UK
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    David Hudson

    OKAY anybody fancy a SILLY practical experiment? I am used to dealing with beams and steel, but normally on retaining walls and other things that do not move. Cars do move and so are subjected to dynamic forces which I am not quite sure how to quantify.

    We therefore need a silly two man experiment.

    EQUIPMENT
    1 x car (any type)
    1 x driver
    1 x passenger observer
    1 x kitchen scale (prefereably good quality digital or dial type)
    1 x 1kg weight (eg: bag of sugar)


    METHOD
    1) Secure the bag of sugar to the scale (bluetack?) and place the scale level on the floor in the car.
    2) Check the measured starting wieght of the test weight (bag of sugar)
    3) The driver now needs to find one of those big dips/bumps in the road that is covered in scratches, where other people have bottomed out their cars.
    4) Make a few passes to establish the maximum safe speed to take this bump without actually breaking the car, but it still wants to be enough to really sit it hard down on its suspension.
    5) Make the measurement runs and read the peak weights for the 1Kg bag of sugar.
    6) Stop the car and recheck the basic weight of the test load.

    Assuming you have a 1Kg test load, if the peak weight seen is 2Kg then the car has just pulled a 1G vertical acceleration (ie: 2G - 1G static gravity). (Everything is subjected to 1G anyhow due to gravity). Likewise 1.5Kg is 0.5G...


    Now for the tricky bit, put the scales and sugar back in the kitchen without getting caught!


    This would actually be useful as it will give a feel for the range of forces NickT's road springs will be subjected to AND the forces the chassis, suspension and all things will be subjected to. If (for example) a big road bump doubles the weight of a bag of sugar, it will do the same to 400Kg of Jaguar V12... double it effectively to PEAK load 800Kg.


    Oh and if anybody actually knows the answer of the assumed design G forces that a production car should be able to handle, please speak now and save a lot of messing about. Thank you.


    While we're at it... any Nissan Skyline owners out there? What's the biggest latteral and braking G forces you've recorded on your dashboard Xbox computer thingy? (preferably not induced by hitting something solid...)



    Answers on a post card...to
    I CAN'T BELIEVE I JUST DID THAT
    WE'RE JUST BIG KIDS
    INTERNATIONAL


    This is how science moves forward. Silly experiments!


    David
     
  11. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    Well today I finished both rear lower wishbones and started to make the nylon bushes. I made 10 of them, got bored and decided to fit one of the wishbones properly.
    I fabricated the hub side, fittted the bushes and ran a straight edge along the side of the car to make sure the wheel wasn't going to point in a stupid angle and welded the hub to the wishbone bush carrier.
    So as of tonight I have one wheel and drive shaft nearly finished and doesn't have to be held in place with gaffer tape!!
    The other drive shaft turned up today along with a load of m20 studding that i will use to make the top wishbones adjustable for camber and caster etc..
    The other side should be easier as I have been making two of everything, the only exception being the drive shaft to transaxle adapter which is still a big lump of aluminium.
     
  12. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

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    #62 Nickt, Apr 11, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    One more wishbone to fit, both driveshafts fitted, 16 more bushes to make and a load more M10 * 60 bolts to buy, but we're getting there. I have also got to change/replace one of the rear wheel bearings. Then to finish off the rear a bit more triangulation is needed on the chassis.

    From the back it looks pretty awesome, my only problem is where do I mount the shocks :eek:

    I have also sorted the ignition and injection. I am going to use a Megasquirt V3 ECU and 2 Ford V6 coil packs. with a 36-1 trigger wheel mounted to the front pulley. Reading up on these ECUs they look pretty cool. Has any one here any experience using them?
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  13. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    4 Wheels on my wagon :D

    Did it, all 4 corners finished (well nearly)! started at 7:30 this morning, what a day!
    The track is 1980mm, its huge! the Zonda F is 2055. All that is left to do now is finish the last 1/2 of the rear drivers side wishbone, and triangulate the rear half of the car, then I can let it off the jacks and wheel it about - then no more welding!
    I also need to extend the steering rack but 10 cm each side.
    The missus is a bit fed up of the Scorpion V12, so I am going to take a few days off the build :(
     
  14. Mark 308 gt4

    Mark 308 gt4 Formula Junior

    Apr 24, 2006
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    Hey Nick,
    come on, I am busting to see the next step!!!!

    Mark
     
  15. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

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    #65 Nickt, Apr 18, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi Mark,
    Here's the latest installment!
    It is now off the axle stands and I have set the ride height using steel tubes to roughly where the shocks will attach. I am not at all happy with the lower front wishbones and can see myself re-doing them. I just think that 198cm front track is way too much, I would be happier to reduce it by 10cm each side if possible.
    Took it out of the garage today, its really light and easy to push around! even with no steering rack connected its still easy. When it was in the drive it created quite a stir with a few people asking what car i had dismantled, they were quite shocked when I said I had built it all from scratch!

    Next I am going to make the 12 branch manifolds and do the electrics. I am still worried about the starter motor, not so much that the audi one wont turn it over, but that I wont be able to line it all up with the new tiny flywheel.

    I have now made enough ebay dosh to buy the ECU so will sort that out this week, Hopefully then i can use the Scorpio's wiring loom and auxilaries and mate that to the V12's Edis ignition and injection. I have also sourced 3 loads of GSXR 600/750 throttle bodies, so subject to funds they will replace the ugly jag inlet system.

    I mounted the steering column inplace this afternoon and tacked it in location, that will need to be shortened considerably.
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  16. rmdferrari

    rmdferrari Formula 3

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    Nick, she's lookin' good buddy. :) Really enjoying this thread.
     
  17. Mark 308 gt4

    Mark 308 gt4 Formula Junior

    Apr 24, 2006
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    Looking good mate!

    Keep it up.
     
  18. ferrari freak

    ferrari freak Karting

    Apr 23, 2007
    60
    +1
     
  19. magic

    magic Formula Junior

    Nov 2, 2004
    512
    London
    Looking good Nick !

    Will it be ready for dream machines ?

    Rgds
     
  20. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    Thanks Guys!
    Not sure :D
    Today (no pics sorry) the chassis was painted black - now it looks seriously mean! (I also cleaned and painted the steering rack and ABS unit ready for fitting.)
    Question please!!
    Does anyone know which hydralic pipe/hole goes where on a 1990 Scorpio ABS unit? I know 2 go to the front and one to the back, but which ones!!

    Thanks gurus!
     
  21. rmdferrari

    rmdferrari Formula 3

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    No f'kin idea, but congrats on post #1000..!!!!:D
     
  22. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    Blimey, way too much time on my hands..

    Today I retrofitted the Scorpio's wiring loom, had to cut out all the stuff I don't want, like rear doors, sunroof etc.. The one thing I love doing is wiring, so satisfying! Especially when you turn the key and everything lights up like it should. Even the chairs move correctly and get nice and warm, dead handy in a cold garage.
    Tonight I bought a pedal box off an 2002 Vauxhall, brand new £8.50 - bargain! So when I get that I can get teh steering rack and ABS pump in the right place. Then i can do the brakes.
     
  23. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

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    #73 Nickt, Apr 21, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  24. Hazy

    Hazy F1 Rookie
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    Mar 12, 2005
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    brilliant thread mate, lovin it..... :D:D:D
     
  25. Nickt

    Nickt Formula 3

    Feb 24, 2006
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    Thanks Hazy, but my wife doesn't agree! She wants me to take up golf, as she thinks she will see more of me :eek:
     

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