Is there a thread on how to bleed the coolant system?

There's such a thread now, but it's pretty straightforward. Start with the motor cold.

1) Remove cap from overflow tank, verify fluid level. If you stick your index finger down into the reservoir the tip should be in the water. Leave cap off.
2) crack open the bleeder screw at the radiator (top, passenger side, rear edge). Air will flow out and then coolant; close the bleeder again when you're getting just coolant.
3) if you have a bleeder screw on the top of the thermostat housing, open it up. Unless you've dropped a few tens of dollars on Verell's magic bolt (highly recommended) it'll come all the way out - don't drop it. Tighten it back down when you're getting just coolant.
4) top up the reservoir to the finger-dipping level if necessary, replace cap, drive.

 

Is there a thread? It's only one of the most discussed 308 subjects of all time! I think fchat's search feature might be in order.

 

As noted, there are TONS of threads/opinions re this subject but just do what Ehamilton posted; that's all that is required. If periodic bleeding is required, the cooling system needs servicing to discover where the air leak is coming from. You should never have to bleed between coolant changes.

 

1) Yes there should be a washer there - think its fibre - but as long as its not leaking it should be OK.

2) See recent thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328/395741-expansion-tank-release-87-328-a.html

You almost certainly did overfill it to start with. As long as the cap is working right it will keep spitting coolant out till it finds the level it wants to be at. When cold the expansion tank will be less than half full (seems to be the concensus).

 

Yep - it will overflow until the coolant level is "correct." Remember, it is an expansion tank, NOT an overflow tank. It is there to provide room for the coolant to increase in volume as it gets hot. If you fill the tank - or even 1/2 fill it - there is insufficient room to accommodate the expanded volume and over it goes until the excess is eliminated.

Oops - sorry, I see that I was posting while another post answered the question...

 

Not 100% certain from the parts diag but I think 11194071 which substitutes to 11194074

TAV 22, parts 13&14 (I think!)

Otherwise, get creative with some kind of fibre washer from your local plumber's merchant

 

One more thing to do. Once it gets to temp, turn on the heater both sides, and let it circulate for a few minutes. After that, you my get more bleed off from the expansion tank.

Craig

 

There are excellent step-by-step instructions at http://www.birdmanferrari.com. A rubber O-ring will work just fine on the radiator bleed screw. There is also a thread on this by Verell

 

Leave 2" to 3" air in the Expansion Tank...no worries...

Recheck it after bleeding fluid of course...when cool!!!

 

I bought a rubber little circle at homedepot in the plumbing section. It's the best seal I have used.

Also, I used a Stant pressure tester (hooks to the expansion tank) so that I could put pressure In the system. I found a few leaks at the various couplers and now all is sealed. I wish I would have done this lone ago.

 

You can replace the whole thing from Ricambi, try: Ferrari Parts : 95800014 : 95800014 Radiator Bleed Thumbscrew.

Or you can find an ordinary faucet washer, the same little rubber thing you'd use to repair a dripping faucet in your house, that's the right size. Any hardware store will have them.

 

i kinda like this solution to air purging.
it can be done hot or cold with no fear of scalding.
also the towel beneath the schrader valve prevents water from going where you don't
want it to.
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Refilling with a vacuum system also helps. I borrowed one from a pro technician buddy:

MCR102A COOLING SYSTEM REFILLERS

 

CAUTION:
Only use a vacuum refill system if you are positive your hoses are in very good condition. There's a long sad thread about what happened to Birdman when he vacuum refillled his Mondial & then headed out for Montreal.

Short version is with old hoses, when the vacuum collapses them they shed flakes of rubber that clog up the radiator and heater elements. Yes, they have to be replaced!

 

I actually didn't need much suction and regulated it as I went. I didn't let the valve suck the hoses flat

 

thanks.
we eat dinner on it as often as possible.

 

the real trick is:

get a paper cup. Poke a hole in the top near the edge with a sharp awl. Stick a sharpie pen in there to make it wider. Slip it over your bleeder screw. Loosen screw. Start engine. When thermostat opens and water bleeds out shut bleeder screw. Pour coolant in container to recycle. This way you dont drip coolant all over your radiator etc.

here is another clean engine!
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