Has anyone ever had any experience with using walnut shells to remove the carbon from the backside of intake valves? Does anyone do this as a mobile service? Also, I've been intrigued by reading about dry-ice pellet blasting and wondered if that would work. No media to clean up afterwards. Bob S.
Interesting...just did some valves (intake and exhaust) on one of my vehicles. Wish I had known of that technique, but, why do you need a moble svc? Can't you just take the valves to the shop who may do this work?
Once the bad valve guides are replaced or the running problems are fixed it won't be a problem anymore.
Gentlemen, In case it wasn't understood this is with the heads on the block and the engine in the car. I have the carbs and manifolds off right now and access to the intake ports and valves is superb at this time. The build up is heavy and somewhat gloppy looking. The dry-ice method is probably not practicle because of price. I'd really like to find a mobile service as the car is on jackstands right now but could be moved if need be. I'm located in NJ on the PA border close to route 78.
Does anyone know of a brush-on chemical treatment? I think I've seen all the fluids you add to your gas or spray on but what's really needed here is mechanical or chemical removal directly on the part. A gloppy paste of some sort would be great and easier than mechanical blasting. Bob S.
For carb cars, there is the old "sprtiz some water in the intake while running" but I can't say I've ever tried this myself. Comments? Ken
Where does all that crud go when it comes off the valve? Out the exhaust port to clog your catalytic converter? Between the piston and cylinder wall to scape around a bit? In a piston ring land to help bind up the rings? Pounded into a valve seat?
I asked about that too; although our cars have no cats. He said it sounds like metal going through the exhaust and you'll **** your pants, but it all blows out and you're good to go. I did ask about fouling the piston/rings too and never got a satisfactory answer. That's why I've never tried it myself! LOL Ken
Ive heard this one too, but never knew anybody who actually tried it. To me it always sounded like a good way to hydraulic the engine or lift the head off the block.
They talked about it on car talk one day I think. The water boils when it hits the hot valve/piston/combustion chamber and steam cleans everything. They said it worked.
This is an old "trick" that the old time Jaguar mechanics say they used to decarbon the pistons. Not sure that it actually cleans the valves themselves. The analogy I was given was what happens when you have a minor leak in a head gasket. When you pull the head, the pistons in the cylinders that were leaking are usually spotless compared to the others. The way it was explained to me by people who have done it and swear by it is to use a pump sprayer, like a Windex bottle, that will produce a mist. They spray it directly into the carbs with a fairly wide open throttle, a little at a time, so as not to stall the engine. Obviously, if you just pour water into the carbs, you are going to have a big problem. I haven't tried it, but guys I know who have say it actually works (you can see the difference looking into the cylinders, before and after, through the spark plug hole, they say.) I understand it can be done on FI cars also by spraying the mist directly into the throttle body. Caveat -- I'm just reporting what I've been told. If you try it, you're on your own. I assume no responsibility for the outcome, unless you report back that it worked splendidly.
You are right about the pistons, not so sure it is going to have the same effect on intake valves. They don't get very hot and are not exposed to the combustion cycle to any degree. The point I was making was that if the cause of the carboned up intake valves is addressed it will take care of itself. An intake valve with deposits of any quantity is an indication of a problem, not THE problem.
Agree. I just went through this in the past two years with two different Jaguar engines (three, if you count my old V-12 many years back). The intake valves were a mess, lot of black, nasty build-up. In all cases, it was the 30+ y.o. valve stem seals leaking. Heads were pulled, valves removed and cleaned, head cleaned up, new valve guides and seals. No more problems. Hopefully, won't have to worry about them again for another 30 years.
Send me the money and I might unnecessarily address it. Look, it's a 35 year old car that was running fine with no smoke or oil consumption and good compression numbers with about 30K. I have the carbs off for a re-build and since I saw the deposits I thought I would remove them while access is easy. But don't let me stop you from commenting on a proceedure that thus far you have indicated zero knowledge about then digressing as to what should be done to the engine when you know nothing about the fricken' car in question! Jeeze, if you're familiar with any of these methods and they have or have not worked then I'm all ears to hear the details but otherwise, you're just blow'n smoke. Check your own rings, valve guides and seals. This car has no valve stem seals so some build up and slight smoking at startup is typical. Mine does not smoke at all. Bob S. ;>))
Thanks Dave. I've also heard that Seafoam is something similar. In most cases people are pouring this down the throat of an operating vehicle. I'll be spraying it directly on the valves and waiting. Possibly I'll be waiting a very long time because if it's anything like the carbon build-up on my stove stop this stuff is a real b*tch to remove. Bob S.
Brian is a Ferrari trained mechanic. He comes here for the fun, or whatever, to offer sage advice to those who ask. Free advice. Having been a mechanic myself and been wrenching of cars and everything else since I cant remember when, I have seen very little that he was ever wrong about. Same in this instance. Just like he put it, fix the problem and the issue will take car of itself. Outside of that your on your own. Back in the day, when engines got carbon fouled they pulled the heads. Myself I wouldnt feel comfortable blasting any material of any kind down my intake ports. At least not on something like a Ferrari. To many things to go wrong and cost more money. At any rate, stop biting the hands that feed you. When good technical people go away because people start arguing, we all lose. Myself, if the car was running well and making good power, I would leave well enough alone. You could try MMO, 1-2 qts in the oil and keep an eye on oil pressure, and a qt or so in the fuel. It may just clean off your valves without mucking anything up. Water entering the engine will only do any good inside the combustion chamber. Nothing will work on the backside of the intake valves short of something like MMO, if at all. You can also try the proverbial "Italian tuneup", but I doubt that will do anything either. Oils with high flash points, ones above 400*F wont do that as readily as something like Pennzoil. And I agree with Ken, that media blasting fouling the piston rings is a very high probablility if anything enters the combustion chamber. Good luck.
Paul and others make sense. If it aint reaaaaly broke, dont fix it, in this engine department issue. I would just like to add a tid bit from my perspective, and that is: Beware of the multitude of snake oil products whose manufacturers prey on us car club consumers with little organic chemistry background.....That stuff mentioned above....the seafoams, the GM whatever whatchamacallit , together with the endless list of rip off elixirs sold at auto parts usually are a dissapointment. There is NO solvent/acid/base/oxidizer that will dissolve carbon (assuming we are talking about "carbon" deposits). None! Mechanical removal is it. Hope that helps some....
GM Top End Cleaner is actually a proven product, but it fills the whole shop with thick smoke........LOL Alan Pontiac Parts Department counter guy, circa 1976..... We used to have this guy named Frank who tuned the silver haired ladies Cadillacs on Galveston Island.......man, he'd pour that stuff in and rev them to the max....if the loud noise suddenly stopped, we owed them a motor.....
I think it's basically Techroline, like Chevron uses as an additive now...you can buy that in bottles as well..... Just take your Ferrari to 10,500RPM every now and then ....same result!
Hey Tex!!! GM elixir, proven? for what (cuz I dont know, other than I know the better not be claiming it will dissolve carbon)? I am embarrased to say that I was suckered into buying (and wasting time) a can of seafoam for valves cleanup. BEWARE that the label says or strongly implies that it actual removes carbon, the very thing I was wanting to remove. Store attendant said it to my face like he knew what he was talking about. I returned it on Monday, and the big store manager man "told" me it does work. The even have the store heads believing it!!
Oh boy. Apparently, judging from your posts on my question about Mobil 1 you do like to lecture people on how and what to do in all things. I started that post with a rather simple (not really) question about a change in formulation. Boy did it divert into a clash of egos fast. Your are not without contributions. Just answer this, how can one feel comfortable dispensing technical advice on the scant amount of information you actually know about this car? I provided very little. I think I can guess, it's irrelevant. That was the gist of my post which you reference. Every one's an instant answer man. Bull dingy! That is why I'm so annoyed (in case you had not noticed ;>) ) I see this in so many places in our culture today that it just annoys me to no end. Thus the expression "Don't believe 90% of what you've heard and 50% of what you've seen". Personally I don't care if gentleman you are refering to is the Einstein of engine diagnosis. If you don't have good data you're just producing ... So here's what I've found out on Dry Ice blasting from talking to numerous ACTUAL operators that clean oil drilling platforms, Nuclear plants, printing presses and many other pieces of sensitive equipment. Properly used it is an effective media free method that will remove light rust, dirt but not heavy grease. It's very good at carbon removal. A trained operator can prevent damage to things like wiring harnesses and looms. I think it could be an great way to clean up older road cars like mine. It will pulverize anything anything that it can remove into a dust. It was just too difficult to arrange at this time. My approach was to do it with the valves closed at low pressure and then clear with compressed air. Now the walnut shell story. I had always heard that BMW used this in the 1980's to clean the valves and that it involved a system that removed the intake manifold, blasted and removed the shells. I spoke with a BMW service manager familiar with this and he told me that they actually did this with the engine running and just the blew the stuff out the tail pipe. Yikes, that one scares me. He claims it was fantastically effective. Currently there are machines that interface with the fuel delivery systems and feed a solvent through engine's fuel and intake system. That's not relevant for a car with 6 dual Webers. So I took another look at the backs of the valves and decided that they're not all that bad so I filled the closed ones with Sea Foam. From what I can tell it's relatively benign as it is also used to fill the combustion chambers before a long storage situation. Depending upon the results of my soak test once it's running again I may use that or a similar spray while the engine is running. Perhaps it's just a bad version of chicken soup. It did immediately loosen some stuff up. So, fingers crossed and hope for some results. I beleive that's a fairly rational and conservative approach to the situation and if you think pulling the heads and rebuilding them on a car that's running well is more appropriate then perhaps money/time is no object for you. Perhaps you're just a touch *n*l retentive? I have been accused of that same thing at times. Bob S.
Is it water that is used to fog the combustion chambers? Physically, how is this decarbonization achieved? Thanks, Bruce S.