Installing my new Diff

may be both ?

I hope that you see on my pictures what is wrong installed?

I´mnot 100 % sure that it is s, but I can not find any other reason for the problem you have.

the problem with the clutch I also could imagine but not sure. so when you put the clutch out please make some detailed pictures from the pins you have let made and also how the center aluminum ring is fixed and also the center steel plate what is mounted with 3 metall springs to the 3 pins. between those pins and the metal springs of the center steel plate there have to come some washers. and those have to be exactly meassured. otherwise you may get this problem you just have.

so happy weekend work


no meassuring and testing? normaly I would agree, but I would check again before closing the diff at the end the pattern with color to double check. only 5 minutes to see clear

 

I have fingers crossed for you Scott. You are going through hell over there.

Pictures of the clutch install would be great to have on this thread as mine is off as well and a reference would be great.

 

Scott,

We are all pulling for you! Just regroup you will get it sorted.


Dave

 

Remember that you're starting at the top of the automotive heap doing a transmission. Imagine doing this on heap - Then I'd agree with you that whiskey sounds "refreshing" You're going to get this thing sorted correctly and fall back in love with her.

My suggestion: Study the forks and shift shaft position with the side cover off. Have someone in the car move the shift lever per your instruction and check out R & 1 / 2 & 3 / 4 & 5, and I'd think you'll know for certain if the 4-5 slider movement is limited. If you did mis-align the synchro rings, it's interesting that both are off ??

You know - - - - I'm wondering if the shift shafts are not positioned correctly. My thought is that little spud which locks out movement on the adjacent shaft would engage and cause the problem you're experiencing. The good news about this is it should be fix-able in the car. (Sorry if you already addressed this).

Fingers crossed for you!

 

"Transmission" isn't a horrible enough description

The effort and complexity for this project ARE at the top of the heap! -- all positive F mojo to Scott.

 

please put a photo or 2 in here how the clutch ( the shims for the center plate ) is mounted.
also if the 2 disk are correct installed and not that the gearbox side will look to the engine side?

 

[You guys are my cheerleaders! I'm pumped up now!]



Can't yell loud enough or jump high enough!!!!

 

nice ot hear that you have help now scott so good to have a family in this case now

I don´t see any mistake. but I wonder what this part is what I marked here. this I have never seen. can you zoom please a liitle? may be also other side?

also please make a photo of the middle plate where it is connected to the 3 pins you have let made. there is in a very small "spring ring " and that is important. I can not see this form the position you took the photos.

the washers under the flap tabs are ok. so it has to be.
but may be you used wrong thickness of those washers? all have to be equal to minimum 5/100 mm. and when you then put the pressure plate from the clutch on you also have to put washers on the other 3 bolts where the pressure plate is mounted. and the thickness of all washers and with and without flap taps has to be the same. where the flap taps are the aluminum ring is a little deeper, but this size is not exactly the thickness of the flap taps. so you need normaly 3 equal washers for the 3 bolts where the flap taps are on and also 3 washers for the other 3 bolts.

in the WSM it is described in secor E 7 and E 8, but not sooooo good, typical F description

important is when you put on the pressure plate that when it is tightened that this plate is not mounted under tension. it is hard for me to tell you this in english but I hope you know what I mean?

you may make a test: put the complete clutch together but don´t put in the 2 clutch disks. then you put on the pressure plate and then this plate has to lay at all 6 bolts on the washers or on the flap tabs. if so it is ok. if not you see where you may change some

also I see on the internal toothing of the cluthc disc a lot of rust. the shaft going into this internal toothing you may put some grease on, not much and no oil. when the discs are not moving easy on the shaft you may have this problem that the clutch will not separate properly.
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sorry scott I don´t remember. I only know that you have let made the 3 pins

but for what you put in those "ears"? normaly there is nothing and the holder for the center plate is on the aluminum ring. so I wonder a little now what you have done and why?

so as it looks now the middle or center pllte is always pushing the rear clutch disk to the pressure plate and it never can separate because of this pressure

when you buy a new clutch then just take not an orignal one. take a sintered metal clutch

right

 

this I can not understand now scott

once I told you to loose all screws from the shifting and then push the forks with the sleeve on the gears. you told me that you did so but only the sleeve for R and 1st and the sleeve for 2nd and 3rd is moving. you could not move the fork with the sleeve on the 4th and 5th. so at that time you have then not loosened and removed all the screws? otherwise the sleeve would go on the synchros. this is not a matter of the swapped shift rods because the forks are not firmly connected to the shift rods when you loosen the screws.


but good that you found the mistake

 

I know someone who did that mistake of putting them the wrong side. His clutch would not disengage completely and make the first gear grind on complete stop. He removed the clutch and called AP Racing to get info and switch the shims ''washer'' on the other side and apparently it solved his problem. He did that this week.

Here is the copy of his email.

First gear appears to be completely fixed. No grinding at all!
I have to put the muffler back on and road test but it seems to work great!
I contacted "AP Racing" who made the clutch and they gave me a few tips
On checking the specs. Seems to shift like the 308 now.
The problem it had is gone. Clutch pedal release is in the proper spot
And no grinding.
I'll let you know how the road test goes!

 

Just another word of encouragement...I've been following this thread with great interest. If you can conquer this you can conquer anything!

 

scott
you may meassure the thickness of the old center plate on about 20 different sections of the plate. if all are the same ( +/- 1/100 mm ) you may take the old one without any problem.
otherwise you may grind the plate, both sides, but then you need different sizes of the washers