I'm fed up with my 308's lack of AC!!

Directed here from DIY thread.. no update n 2 years..

Lester

 

I just installed charge of ES12 to my old York compressor. Replaced the drier and coil too. ES12 is amazing stuff, works better than R12 IMO. The fear factor with es12 is that it's hydrocarbon based making it flammable, well what you don't hear is that it's flammable point is at a very very high temperature of 1500F+ making any chance of it igniting incredibly low.

 

John,

Glad to hear youre a fan of HC's. But like anything , it has its drawbacks. I use it all day long, even on my mothers car!! But, whatch out for the autoigniton temp of 1500+ deg F. I dont believe it. That stuf is a mixture, maybe as you know, of mostly propane, and isobutane.

If a puncture hapens, Im not so sure that the gases wont "seperate" upon reaching atmospheric pressure meaning the propane and isobutane will seperate. ES 12 is an azeotrope. They will seperate if released in the atmosphere, thus, leaving propane on its own. IF that happens, man, it can hit the engine manifold which may be about 1200-1500 deg F, and propane has an autoignition temp of only about 850 or so (dont feel like looking it up.....hehe)

So, be informed. Still, I will continue using it. Ive put it in soooo many cars. So far, no biggee. Oh- even if opure propane, it will only ignite if the propane/air mixture is an ideal, and vary narrow range of about 2-9% (again, too lazy to look up exact %ages). This is not easy to accomplish, fortunately for us HC fans.

 

Also, ES 12 does not work well on some car models. I dont know why. Honda civics, Plymouth voyagers, very cold. Also, Saturns. Pontiacs, not so. Still, beter than r134a.

 

Need some help: Clutch on OE Aspera (York) HG 1000 AP) is slipping. Appears worn. Pulley size appears "key." What is diameter of OE clutch pulley? I see many 7" Clutch Assy. with pulley for York (all 7"). Source for compressor? York model is R210R (RH suction with Rotolock fittings).

Thanks in advance.

Ed in Aiken, SC

 

What size pulley on clutch? I see many available, but for York, they all seem to be 7". Dryer also avail, I think from AutoZone or AdvanceAuto. Any part Nos ???

Thanks.

 

I did ES12 that I have had on the shelf for years and r134 fittings with the built in shrader valve on both the low and high pressure side. Went from empty, bypassed the low pressure switch so that the compressor would run, and added two 6 oz cans. Getting a 35 degree F drop...75 ambient to almost 40. That should do. Cold enough to make the outside of the glass condensate moisture.
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The compressor clutch is a Ferrari only item, very specific. Do what you can to muttle around ebay or wherever to locate one. The other option is to get a Sanden compressor that already has a clutch which actually will work installed, and if that's the case a bracket to mount the Sanden compressor is also needed.

The Dryer is for a 1985 BMW 318i and the expansion valve crosses to a 1985 Ford Econoline van. Easy and cheap enough.

Two cans is all I needed too, very very good stuff that ES12. Unreal how well it works even with the old York/Aspera compressor. I took a bit of time and replaced every o-ring in the system with the 'green' style o-rings for a/c systems, no leaks.

 

Thanks for the information, really appreciated. Thankfully my manifolds run below 600F, I measure them to make sure I'm not getting any misfires etc! Still, be careful with this stuff I think is your point, and point noted indeed. Appreciated.

 

I just bought 6 cans of r12, a new dryer, a new expansion valve and some mineral oil. Back to having AC soon.

 

Excellent. That should do it

 

OUtstanding. thank you! What motor is that you fitted there?

 

Beautiful work, Rob

On my car (RHD) there is precious little space between the blower and the wheel tub, and even with such a thin adaptor and the necessary squishy gasket, it would be close. But an elegant solution just the same!

That blower has 354 CFM, which I tested to be a little less than the standard Borletti. The 008-A54-002 has the same back space in the housing (a little wider, but that's not critical) and over 500 CFM. That was what I was going to do next, but as I said in my PM, I feel I've already jumped the shark on this project and want my car back! I do think a relay will boost the fan output a bit, though - we'll see, I guess.

Thanks for all your help - it was this thread that gave me the confidence to tilt at this particular windmill

Patrick

 

roll down the window!

 

Really?

Last night the MINIMUM was 24.5C and 99% humidity - and that's on the coast! A few degrees higher inland. High 30's during the day, AND high humidity - walk out of your air conditioned office and it's like a boilermaker's jockstrap!

308's in this place are undriveable during the day at this time of year. Part of the "more like an every day driver" modification must include the air con!

 

Totally agree! The "roll down the window/take off the top" stuff is fine when it's 75F and low humidity OR, the driver is comfortable with sweat gluing his/her back to the seat and dripping down the nose. But to use the car as a CAR, not a 20 minute showpiece ride to the local car "event," functioning AC is mandatory for me. I see no reason to be miserable…and trying to look like I'm not.

 

I was kidding, hence the I drove through the mojave desert without AC so I know what hot is. I just think getting the AC working on these old Ferrari's is a challenge. As I stated before I got an A+ in AC at my local college and had my GT4 evacuated and filled freezing cold at the vents, but could never work as the greenhouse is so huge. I applaud all your efforts to improve your systems and feel lucky to live where it is 75° most of the year!

 

I was at a shop this past weekend where a glass guy was installing clear 3M film on the vintage car. When he was done, I could not tell the film was there. This is designed to cut down about 70% of the heat coming in and reflect the rays away.
Something to consider....cut down on heat coming in without changing the look of the glass, especially the front glass. a quick search turned up apex windown films who can provide "optically clear film".

 

Yes, I saw that. That's exactly the one I bought - the supplier had his own serial no. and listed it at 630 CFM. When I opened the box, it was the SPAL 008-A46-02 (354 CFM). There is another in the series (same size housing) that has over 500 CFM - that's the 008-A54-02, which would be the one to get, but adapting it to fit was beyond me (the outlet face is different, even from the A46-02), and I puller the pin. It also draws 30 amps!

 

Ahh! Emoticons! Haven't quite got them sorted out yet. It uses the same part of the brain that can use a mobile phone for other things besides phone calls.

 

Did you have to change speed resistors or were you able to keep the originals? Nice find by the way.

Any chance you could provide a drawing for the adapter plates with dimensions etc?

 

Can the blower motor be removed without removing the compete assembly?

 

I am converting to a Sanden compressor but want to keep it a R12 system. Anybody know how many 12 ounce cans it takes to fill the complete system? I don't want to buy any more cans that I have to at $61 a can.