I went in for a 5k major, it cost XXXX more and here's what happened"

Never thought about it that way but I think you are correct. So at assembly do they actually take the time to time the cams or do they just leave it there??

 

Maybe they are not just assembly marks, i guess ch cking the timing would confirm provided you check the ferrari way.
From what others have posted though I do not ever remember the timing marks lining up but they are allways close.

 

John - would you please stop making so much sense - my brain is starting to hurt

 

I want the answer to Daves assembly marks now. He has me curious, I suspect they were never actually timed.

 

I think you answered that above

 

Hey man, on a best day, the 328 puts out 275 horse power. The 355 pumps out 375 due to its engine running at its peak. The 328 ( I own one) is not as sensitive to lock and swab if your previous timing was done correctly. Technically you can do valve timing on the 308 2V too but nobody cares because it is just that sensitive. For what it is worth, I do valve timing with degree wheel on my own 328.

As for the 355, you still don't know what the eff you are talking about. STFU.

 

Come on fellas - let's keep it friendly...

 

Alright, the gloves come off, Mr. K.

Have you:

1. Removed a 348 or 355 engine on your own?
2. Replaced any Ferrari timing belts, 308/328/348/355 for which you have been so freely offering advices to others?
3. Removed any Ferrari cam shafts to replace cam seals?
4. Put back said cam shafts to within 0.5 degrees of their previous positions?
5. Found a way to lock a 348 or 355 crank shaft in a fixed position?
6. Performed an engine out on a 348 engine after it has been given a lock and swap timing belt job to find that all cam shafts need 3 to 12 degrees of adjustments to bring them back to factory 1 degree specs?
7. Found that said engine needed 14 of 16 exhaust valves clearance way way too tight and needed adjustment because the lock-and-swab mechanic did not do the valve adjustment with engine in?
8. Removed said cams to adjust valves and put the cam back to within 0.5 degree of their positions?
9. Ever did an engine service, not changed the cam seals and have the seals leak right after the service with the customer yelling at you and you now have to do it again?
10. Ever walked up to a mechanic and told him that he cannot charge you more than your retail for a Ferrari part and NOT been told by him to go masterbate someplace else?

I am willing to bet that you have done none of the above other than your mental exercise from which vantage point you feel so free to offer advice. Now, can you do us all a favor and shut up on this topic?

 

i bet cultural anthropologists could write doctoral thesis on message boards...

sjd
off to make monkey noises and smash something with a discarded femur

 

Mitch - I for one learn a lot from John and happen to love his contributions. Also, to know 2+ 2 = 4, one does not need to lay 4 sticks on the ground and count them. Yep - I greatly value experience but you don't always need experience to know what is proper and what is not. Regarding seals, if you have an open mind, John will share some seal facts with you and why replacing them when they don't leak can be a bad thing.

 

I read a book on how to play piano once, and I saw a few youtube videos. I can now play the piano.

 

I challenge your lack of practical experience in applying your theoretical calculations to real life. You still have not provided any answers to my challenge leading me to believe you have none.

 

So.... on number 6. Obviously the timing was off before the lock and swap. I think that’s part of the whole “lock” part of the equation. If you do a lock and swap on an engine that is 12 degrees off on timing then it will still be 12 degrees off on timing. I can’t imagine that engine was running at peak performance before the procedure.
If you have an engine that is purring like a kitten and puts down power just it should then, as I guess John has asked, how would a lock and swap change that?

 

Knowledge and experience are different, often go hand and hand and sometimes they don't. A person trained in music theory could understand it perfectly and still not be able to play. Playing music is a combination of knowledge and skill, skill often bettered thru practice. Understanding the mechanical workings of an engine takes knowledge. Now, experience may prove that to replace part X, part Y needs to be removed first to gain access. But, the experience does not mean someone has more knowledge of the proper workings of the system.

In the last several weeks, I've posted "I was wrong" a handful of times. I'm stubborn yet have an open mind. These treads are more a testament of closed minds than anything else....

 

I assume nothing. I observe that you have zero mechanical experience with 348 and 355 engines when it comes to timing belt intricacies for which you offer plenty of advice.

This site, especially this section, is a DIY section for DIY people. If you are working on something and you need help, I will give you all the help I can. This is not a Talk It To Death site. You are all about a debate to see who has the bigger brain. For that, let me say that you have the bigger brain. Now we are done debating.

 

Treads! You are wrong again! I demand you apologize!

 

I'm amazed I can spell my own name - see I'm an engineer after all

 

So Brian, the first answer is you cannot tell how well your car is acting if that is the car you have been driving for 2 years ... until you jump into someone else's car and feel the difference. The second answer is this a folly of lock and swap. There is no factory provision on a 348 or 355 to lock the crank shaft in a fixed TDC position. There is no marking to even approximate it. There is no window over the flywheel with the PM1-4 marking to say you are almost there. If you knock the crankshaft a degree out of place, you are now out of spec and have to way to know you are out of spec.

There is no need to buy the 300 dollar cam shaft lock tool. Get yourself a $20 timing degree wheel from Summit Racing and follow the 355 WSM. Your car, the 355, is the easiest one of the bunch to do cam timing on. The WSM spells it out to the mm, just follow it. No need to calculate anything, or even look at their valve diagram. It's all there. You have been around a long time, you are not afraid of DIY, take it up.

Finally, if you feel totally happy with the way your car purrs, and want to just do a swap, go ahead. It's your car. The owner of that vehicle in number 6 got in, turned the key over, and said "wow, it even sounds different."

 

Experience does tell you when theory stops and real life limitations happen. To insist that theories must always happen in real life without any accounting for their limitations is false.

 

Depending on the method and equipment you are using to find TDC, you may introduce more error than the car had previously. And, the argument John and I have been making are about a correctly timed engine can absolutely have a belt swap without altering that timing. I fully support verifying what the car has first - nobody suggested otherwise, Mitch.

Who sells a $300 cam lock?