I need the details of Spal 308 heater fans?

Does anyone have a spec on these?
If not, has anyone measured current draw on these?
I have badly cracked housings so it's either buy new or come up with replacements as I see no repair parts offered online.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Art

 

Thanks BigTex,
Broken much more than the mounts - I could fabricate those.
I'll try FerrParts & TRutlands for salvage.
Thanks
Art

 

Mike
The splits are major and it's like the entire piece deformed with heat or stress. I have tried epoxy and metal straps with rivets - it's a mess.
Art

 

Well I went the salvage route to repair my right side heater blower. I specifically asked for an intact blower housing as I could fabricate a mount and use my motor. What I received was a blower with a broken housing. I'm not throwing anyone under the bus because we are dealing with 30 year old plastic and they did take the unit back complete with return shipping. It's just frustrating.

So I contacted SPAL USA and a SPAL distributor. Both had the same answer - even the substitutions that I asked for were not available.
So the original units are indeed SPAL 001-A07-01D and 001-A07-01S units, but there must be an additional suffix for the Ferrari mounting tabs and 2 speed resistor. I found these very part numbers on a couple of European sites but they failed to respond to my emails.
I did discover the specification of the original SPAL fans - 310 M3/H = 182 CFM at 7.6Amps (13VDC). I can even take a good guess at the curve (attached)

From the attached curves I had selected the following SPALs as substitutes, hoping to use them at the lower two speeds.
001-A53-01S with 3 speed option
001-A46-01D with 3 speed option

There are four important considerations when substituting
1. On my 83 QV, both fans run off a single 16A fuse - so more than 8 amps per blower is a problem
2. It is important to note that a centrifugal blower only pulls maximum current when unloaded. When the unit is installed with the backpressure from the heating system it will run further down the curve at less amps and less CFM. This will take some experimentation to figure out where on the curve they run.
3. So the 3rd issue is to have equivalent or more CFM than the original blower at the system's back pressure and under 8 amps per blower.
4. Of course the mounting and interface to the 80 mm air hose are important.

After all of this gathering of knowledge I searched for a non-SPAL substitute blower and came up with several that just are not as good as the originals. So I bit the bullet and ordered the Superformance parts - shown and stated on their web site as the "Original SPAL Units". Well I received them today and what I got was two SMITHS single speed blowers with no mounting tabs and no specifications.

I just sent Superformance an email and will see what is up. They have always fixed any issues that I have had in the past. If the SPALs are not available then I hope that I can at least get a SMITHS specification to see if they are of equal performance to the SPALs. If they are I can always use a dropping resistor to make them two speed.

I’m writing this so the information that I have gathered is recorded here for posterity. Who knows what blowers will be available in the future? I will follow up with my ultimate solution. Any inputs would be appreciated!

Cheers
Art
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Hi Brian
I did buy them from Superformance and the wrong fans arrived. Seems the SMITHS are for the 246. They just sent me an email stating that they will now send me the SPALs and I have to look into shipping the SMITHS back to England. It looks like I will now have this all resolved.
Thanks
Art

 

Please benefit from my trials and tribulations
The "Original SPAL Blowers" from Superformance are not the original blowers at all.
This is not a bad thing as the new modern SPAL blowers have much better performance.
BUT
They are twice as good and need twice the current!
So there are two things to do.
1. First the motor extends out from the case more than the old - This means that it will not fit behind the cross member that holds the body work behind the front wheel well panels. It just so happens that the new blowers do not have the mounting tabs as the originals. There are threads showing how to make mounts as the old plastic ones seemed to break anyway. Just be aware that the way to get these mounted is to swap sides and mount them with the impellers facing the rear. This means you put the mount on the other side. My attached picture shows that I have my rather crude mounts on both sides now as I didn't find this out until it was too late.
2. As the new motor draws about twice what the old motor does, you need to use a relay. I was not willing to give up the performance of the new blower. I purchased 1.5 ohm 150W chassis mount resistors from Mouser as they contain sufficient heat sink on their own to use by simply mounting them. I used the low speed wiring through the resistor and they draw about what the old blower would draw. I then used the high speed wire to activate the relay coil which switches from the old wiring to 12 AWG with an inline fuse to the battery. The fuse needs to be north of 10A for each blower as I measure 9A.

Bottom line is that these blowers real blow! This should help with the cabin heat problem but I won't know until I get her back on the road.

I am working on a schematic and parts list that I will share when complete - but I wanted to get this info out now.

Thanks for all of your help in restoring my '83

Art
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Yes
It's a McMaster-Carr offering - nice but a bit difficult to work with
The old stuff was toast - didn't do it for the increase in pressure