I could use a good winch

I'm confused.

Maybe try to rewrite your post without using the word "hoist".

Do you store your 430 on a backyard buddy 4-post LIFT perhaps?

Doesn't the lift come with a power unit that raises and lowers the car?

 

So, you're talking about the standard ramps that are about 2.5 feet long that get the car up on the top of the lift when it is only about 6 inches above the ground (fully lowered).

OR, are you talking about NOT lowering the top of the lift and driving the car up custom ramps (that must be about 15 feet long) that get the car up on the top of the lift when it is about 6 feet up in the air?!

One idea for the former issue is to buy a second set of ramps and place them next to the first set such that the ramp area is twice as wide per tire. This would make it near impossible to drive off the edge of one of the ramps.

 

I use a SuperWinch SAC1000 for loading inside a trailer. It's powered by 110vac and has a dynamic and static brake so you can stop halfway up the ramp without having the weight of the car un-coil the cable and roll back down the ramp. My trailer ramp is steep, and I now use a snatch block. It pulls the car without one, but winch sure is grunting. Winch motor pulls right at maximum current (7 amps) without the snatch block. ​

 

Nothern Tool, Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply are few names that have winches. They cater to the mechanical / equipment oriented items. They may have a presence in your neck of the woods. They have on line catalogues to browse or order if you like.

 

Get one from an old Land Rover?

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2B_lcaP7aA[/ame]

 

I use a Warn winch. Has been working nicely with my Cadillac so far
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snatch block.... censored :=)

it is a block ( pully ) with a quick release / snap shackle which allows it to be moved quickly

by adding a block to his winch the, poster doubled his mechanical advantage thus reducing the load on his straining winch by 1/2.... eg the winch had one cable attached to the car which was carrying all the load, by adding a block it created a 2nd cable to help carry the load, so that each cable now split the load in 1/2. The mechanical advantage increases each time a block is introduced, lessening the power needed.

 

so could I but without the snatch block.

 

The way it was described to me: The dynamic portion of the braking uses counter EMF generated from the motor when the wind button is released, to stop cable pull until the static portion locks. The static portion uses a mechanical brake that engages with the gears/spool when the motor is in the off position or is unplugged. I’ve never had a problem with the load unwinding the cable spool and lowering itself while in the off position. Stops on a dime with 9 cents change even halfway up the ramp. Using a snatch block is an inconvenience and it doubles your pull time. When using a snatch block be sure to rate it accordingly. It actually sees double the load you are pulling.​

 

Just be super careful when using the winch. I've got one on my trailer and it gladly pull your car under basically any circumstance. Left the parking brake on. Winch don't care. Its got enough power to rip right through / over most anything. So go real slow, get a nice long remote tether and watch as the car moves on that their any obstructions.

(The winch in my trailer is a Warn. They seem to be the name brand for car winches.)

Adam

 

the load cannot change, it is what it is, any mechanical advantage gained through gears or blocks reduces the effort to move the load...

 

Harbor Freight Tools -- I bought mine for $30. (They've been on close-out this month. I've owned the exact same one in the past, but it got borrowed and never returned.) It is a 2000lb/6000 rolling winch that you can hook to a battery (or battery charger). There's a wired remote. I've used it for pulling plenty of cars up ramps to car trailers.

You can mount it to the wall, a built in workbench...there's a trailer ball mount that you can basically ratchet-strap to anything anywhere.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-electric-winch-39997.html

 

If the end of the line is fastened to an attachment point next to the winch at 0 degrees, as it is in my trailer, (See lower right Example picture), for each pound of winch force applied, the snatch block will be under *twice* the load, while the line strain will be equal to the line pull. So if you apply a full 12,000 pounds of pull, you are putting 24,000 pounds of stress on the snatch block. As you can see, while the load on the winch is cut in half, as is the line speed for winding, the load on the block is *not*, and is equal to the total line load. Select your snatch block carefully. Buy the best and cry once!

This drawing shows a typical Double Line configuration one might use in a "Winch your vehicle into your trailer" situation:
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What's your concern about simply driving up the ramp? This should be a no brainer.

If it's left-right alignment then just drop a string with a tennis ball from the ceiling to line up with the middle of the car or some other feature that you like (left fender line or whatever).

If it's fore-aft alignment do the same but set it so that ball stops on the windshield when the car is parked correctly.

 

I have sintered iron discs for clutch discs and there is no way they like to be slipped. The more they slip, the hotter they get, the more they grab. Winching the cars into the trailer or onto a lift is required. I've tried "driving" the car into the trailer once before, but that was a hair raising experience. Almost popped out the front of the trailer straddling the trailer tongue. ​

 

your math / reference is flawed, unless you want to determine the capacity of your rigging.

a load (car) does not change... total load on rig does not change, it remains constant, the effort to move a load is decreased as the mechanical advantage increases...

 

It's no different than a hill start.

That's a problem. My lift is not secured to the floor but it's not an epoxy floor.

 

I have difficulty with a lift not secured to the floor... does the manufacturer / construction of the lift allow for full integrity without anchoring to a floor ? The lifts that I have had required they be secured to the floor for max safety / stability.