"Howling" noise | FerrariChat

"Howling" noise

Discussion in '308/328' started by mike996, Apr 22, 2021.

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  1. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

    Jun 14, 2008
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    My '89 328 has made a howling noise when started from cold in cool/cold weather since I have owned it. I had assumed that it was oil cooler resonance, as has been discussed in other threads. But in replacing all the belts, I decided to actually pay more attention and found that it is not coming from the oil cooler. It is coming from the front (belt side) of the engine.

    The noise occurs most frequently when the car is started from cold in cool/cold weather. When it starts/goes to fast idle - around 1800-2000 RPM, it howls. The noise does not change pitch with RPM it basically turns on and off like a switch within a narrow RPM range. If I rev engine above the fast idle speed, the howl disappears, returning when the engine drops back to fast idle speed.

    As the engine warms up and the RPM drops, the noise disappears. From that point on, it does not make the howling noise, even if I hold the RPM at the same point where it was howling. It never howls when started from warm.

    It does not sound anything like belt squeal and, since the pitch does not vary with RPM, it seems unlikely to be related to a bearing. But I welcome any thoughts...
     
  2. Alex308qv

    Alex308qv Formula Junior

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    My 308 has a whine on cold startups too, and it's heard in many startup videos, and I understand it's normal. My Ferrari tech said it is a normal movement of fuel from low pressure to high pressure in the system. That supports not varying with RPM. I'm sure someone here has a better technical explanation.
     
  3. Dave Bertrand

    Dave Bertrand Formula Junior
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    Fuel pump crossed my mind too, but doesn't explain why the sound goes away when RPM is either below or above the narrow range. So in that way it IS RPM related, even though the volume and pitch don't change.
     
  4. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    "So in that way it IS RPM related, even though the volume and pitch don't change."

    Yes,you are right. In that sense it is RPM- related. When I said it wasn't I was thinking in terms of the usual sort of bearing or other noise that rises/falls in frequency/volume with the engine RPM. I'm now wondering if it could be some sort of vacuum - related component, something that is activated when the engine is cold. I'm not familiar with the operation of the components of the Ferrari system - cold start valve/related components as far as how they operate or their internal "structure" that might cause noise.
     
  5. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    Possibly the oil bypass. Front timing cover, spring loaded piston to maintain pressure, thick cold oil, higher pressure, forces spring and piston plunger moves to open bypass. It can flutter or vibrate and create a unique howling noise. While I've only had to replace that spring twice, they do weaken over time leading to that issue.
    A stethoscope is best for sorting out where the noise is coming from.
     
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  6. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    #6 mike996, Apr 22, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2021
    Yes - my stethoscope is in Mexico so I just ordered one for here...

    The cheap stethoscope - piece of hose - found the sound to be loudest near the crankshaft pulley - I didn't move the hose over toward the Oil pressure relief valve...

    I'll try that...
     
  7. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    Of course, when I tried that, there was no howling at all! ;)
     
  8. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    Found several videos of US v8s with the noise that sounds identical and with the same symptoms - noise on cold start, disappears as engine warms up. The two "fixes" seem to be, 1 - replace the oil pump, and 2 - ignore the noise. Unlike the 3x8, the US v8s do not have an externally accessible oil pump relief valve/springs; the relief valve is contained within the oil pump itself. If it was the oil pump gears, the frequency and volume of the noise would vary with RPM and would not disappear after a couple of minutes, so SMGs suggestion makes sense that it is spring/valve related.
     
  9. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    The bypass spring and piston are easily accessed from the front. Bank 1-4 side, you'll notice a snout with a 32mm hex head cap. That's the assy. Right next to the crank damper. Unscrew cap, caution it is under tension from the spring.
     
  10. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    Thanks - have to admit I'm not sure why an oil pump relief valve could make that noise but it's clear from the videos I've seen that it can! Now curious if different weight oil would make any difference - 0W40 which I've used for years VS 10W40. It would be easy enough to try...except for the part where I just bought 11 qts of 0W40 so I don't really want to buy 11 more of 10W40! ;)
     
  11. smg2

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    I don't think the oil viscosity there is going to be the issue. The WSM has a spec for the spring, easy enough to check.
    Is it that cold where you are that 0W is needed?
    You could also throw on a mechanical oil pressure gauge and watch the oil pressure from cold to hot.
     
  12. derekw

    derekw Formula 3
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    There’s a picture of my setup testing the relief spring on one of my pages (Derek’s 308) and I agree the plunger could be bouncing on the seat to make that noise. I would try cleaning the plunger and the passage and even roughing up the plunger’s sealing face a bit (rough sandpaper) may change the dynamics.

    I would check the cam drive bearings too.
     
  13. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    No, I don't need 0W40 but the local parts store never has Mobil 1 10W40. I could go to a different brand but I've been using Mobil 1 since it came out and I hate change! ;) Good point re the mech gauge; I have a mech gauge and used it to check operating pressure on the car a couple of years ago. I didn't write anything down :( but my point at the time was to "calibrate" the car's OP gauge and I remember that my thought at the time was that it was "close enough."

    "I would check the cam drive bearings too."

    Actually that was one of my first concerns though it strikes me that the symptoms are wrong for a bad bearing - I would expect bearing-generated noise to change frequency and volume as the RPM changes. I wouldn't expect it to turn on/off in a very narrow RPM range, and to totally disappear a couple of minutes after cold start. Also, I've never heard the kind of sound I'm hearing come from a bearing. But hey, I've been wrong before.

    I think this is how I'm going to approach it: I'll see if I can return the unopened oil and exchange it for 10W40 synthetic of some other brand. If that does nothing I'll seriously look at the check valve - maybe buy a new ($65 !!) spring! If that doesn't address the problem...:(

    Interestingly, and sort of unrelated - at O'Reillys auto parts, their website list shows ALL Mobil 1, regardless of weight, as "not suitable for an '89 Ferrari 328." However, OReilly's own labeled oil IS shown as suitable. ;)
     
  14. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    It doesn't appear to be the oil pump relief valve. Stethoscope picks up no 'howl' from that assembly. I just checked and although the engine howled very briefly, it was loudest with the stethoscope held an inch or so from the crankshaft bolt in the center of the crankshaft belt pulley. However, moving the stethoscope as close as possible to the back side of the pulley/harmonic balancer, there is no howl. IOW, no unusual noise from the crankshaft/bearing. I'm mystified! I guess I'll just do as I have been doing for the 12+ years I have owned the car...ignore the noise since it goes away in a minute or two! ;)
     
  15. GordonC

    GordonC F1 Rookie
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    0W is always needed and preferable to 5W and 10W, if the viscosity spread is not too great. "Cold" 0W is still far thicker than hot -40 wt, The data sheet for Mobil1 FS 0W-40 European Car Formula shows viscosity at 40C ("Cold") is 71 Centistokes, at 100C is 12.9 Cs. For Mobil1 Formula M 5W-40, the viscosity numbers are 79 cs @ 40C, 13.2 cs @ 100C. Lower viscosity "cold" oil, ie 0W, gets oil circulating and lubricating significantly quicker on cold engine starts.
     
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  16. smg2

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    You could pop the accessory belts off and run it when cold to rule out belts or the accessories. It'll run on battery for a min or so, just keep a charger attached if needed. Had a noisey A/C pump that was found that way once.

    If the noise is strictly transmitted thru the crank snout, it could be the oil pump gears. Seen that too, rare but happens when debris gets picked up or the filter collapses. Only filter I will use is a baldwin (B253).
     
  17. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    I may pull the belts as a final check. But it's annoying because I have to unbolt the AC compressor to get the belts off. The AC belt can't be fitted or removed by loosening the tensioner. :(

    Re oil pump gears - again, as a gear or bearing thing, I can't associate the noise with that. The on/off nature, the fact that it only occurs at one narrow RPM range and because it disappears after a minute or two doesn't sound like any sort of gear or bearing issue I have ever seen. Agree re Baldwin filters - they are the only filters I ever used on marine diesels...and my Ferrari 328! :)
     
  18. smg2

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    The oil pump gears are just that, gears. They 'float' in their bores and rely on oil film for a bearing cushion. The housing is cast aluminum, the gears are case hardened. If there is debris or a loss of oil in the pump, i.e. it sucks air or foam. Those hardened gears quickly wear the aluminum housing. It's not something I run across a lot, but I've had a few worn past their limits. Not saying yours is worn. But is noise similar to straight cut gears like in the gear drive muscle car engine? The oil pump is straight cut gears and they will make a howling noise if the oil is faomy or not there. If the housing is worn then pressure will not be where it should either.
    I wonder if it's simply because it can't generate enough vacuum when cold to pull enough oil. When cold the pump is 'dry' and has to pull from the sump. Could be a clogged sump, leaking gasket. Hard to say. I'd check pressures first and work from there just to rule out oil pressure issues.
     
  19. johnk...

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    I have to say, there is an advantage to having a one owner car since new with some of these issues. I know exactly what you are referring to. My car does it some times. It did it the day I took delivery when the salesman was showing me the works. His comment, "Perfectly normal. Some cars do it, other don't." After 35 years it still does it. Not a single tech has every commented on it being a problem or attempted to correct it.
     
  20. maurice70

    maurice70 F1 Rookie

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    My howl is there always but only at exactly 2000rpm, before or after it can’t be heard but I am sure it’s coming from the oil cooler side as that’s where I can hear it most,,and it’s not as prevalant with the roof on
     
  21. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    Oil pressure is good per mech gauge from the instant the car starts cold and at full operating temp. It is definitely not gear noise or bearing noise. It seems to be some sort of resonance but from what, I have no idea. As Johnk pointed out with his example, my 328 has always done it and at the PPI for the car in 08 the mech said..."Some of them do that!" I'm not sure why I suddenly decided to look into it... ;)
     
  22. ginoBBi512

    ginoBBi512 F1 Rookie
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    I would stop using synthetic oil, thats been my experience, Ive been using Valvoline Racing 20/50 for 21 years, mineral oil with Zinc,,my car has 103k Miles. and it runs like it did with 20k. I have noticed , guys having problems on their 3x8 s that I have never encountered in my 21 years of ownership, they all seem to be using syn oil, I know , yeh, Ferrari says to use it, I have never, knowing Ferrari, even with the build quality of the 308 / 328 , its probably a gimic so they can sell more parts, and do more service. i dont believe syn oil is the best for the 3x8s. My motorcycle engine builder, builds 400 Hp turbo motorcycles, and has never used syn oil one time in his drag racing career.I believe that most 3x8s in the world, have not had synthetic oil in them, for their entire life once they came out of the factory.

    Thank you
     
  23. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    If oil pressures are good then I wouldn't be concerned about the pump. It could be very well be that it's tolerance is such that the clearances are on the large end till warm.
    There's really not much at the crank front that will create a harmonic like you're hearing. The oil pump is the only assy up front that could make noise aside from the bypass valve.
    All that's left is WP and A/C but it didn't sound like you suspected them.
    There is an exhaust joint right under the crank, but that would be a different sound.

    Here's the service update on the bypass spring. Crappy screen capture.. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  24. JohnnyTS

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    Mike, could it be simple harmonic resonance which you mentioned, at cold temps with the RPM mentioned, just the correct vibration/frequency at cold start, just a thought, as the temp rises and expantion takes place, vibration drops for example and all goes away...

    cheers
     
  25. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    I'm going to pull the belts today and run the engine. All pulleys/bearings are smooth-turning with no roughness whatsoever so I do not believe the WP, AC compressor, or Alternator or their associated tensioners are causing it. It's absolutely not the AC compressor because the same noise was present with the York compressor as with the new Sanden compressor. Heck, maybe the belts themselves are resonating.

    Hmmm... Maybe I'll first reduce the belt tension a bit and see if there is any change. If it's a belt, a tension change should change the pitch. It really does sound like the crankshaft belt pulley is acting as an amplifier but what it could be amplifying, I don't know. Unless, as Gino suggested, it's that darned synthetic oil! ;)
     
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