How-To: Remove & Replace Fuel Pump | FerrariChat

How-To: Remove & Replace Fuel Pump

Discussion in '360/430' started by HIO Silver, Jul 10, 2016.

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  1. HIO Silver

    HIO Silver Formula Junior

    Mar 12, 2016
    497
    Northern California
    Full Name:
    Alonso C.
    #1 HIO Silver, Jul 10, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I initially thought the gassy smell from my 01 Spider was a result of the evap valves but removing the access covers indicated the RH fuel pump had a very small crack and fuel was welling in the valve hat (See red arrow in pic below). I ordered a RH pump from Maserati Parts USA and thanks to Dave for helping me out.... came all the way from Maranello to avoid the hazmat fee charged by Ferrari USA because it is a fuel related part... saved about $120 by doing that.

    Here's how to replace the RH fuel pump but the LH should be the same except for dealing with the float arm. In principle, it is the same.

    1. Access. Turn on the ignition, open the top, and stop the motor with the hatch fully up and the convertible mechanism with the forward half folded. The "pointy" ends or "sails" will be pointing straight up. Turn off and remove the key.

    2. The hatch cover on my Spider lost hydraulic pressure so I had to prop it up with a length of wood about 18 inches long.

    3. Using a 3mm Allen socket, remove the five machine screws securing the cover(s).

    4. A spanner wrench tool is required to remove the lock ring. Many sources on the web.. Google "Fuel Pump Lock Ring Tool". Costs start at about $20 I fabricated my own using a a one-inch wide strap of .125 steel and welding a cheap 3/8-inch drive socket in the middle. The arms need to be about 5.25 inches from each other and the height enough to clear the valve hat of the fuel pump. A slot needs to be cut to straddle the nubs... a cut off wheel and a grinder did the trick... Painted it red just because.

    5. Disconnect the fuel line and the electrical connector. The connector can be tucked under the deck tray. The fuel line is formed so I just dealt with it.

    6. Loosen the lock ring (counterclockwise). The fuel pump is spring loaded so it will apply force upwards while the ring is loosened. Two hands are required.. one to press down to counteract that force and the other to unscrew the ring. Note there is an O-ring on the fuel tank neck. Make sure it is there and secure.

    7. Withdraw the fuel pump slowly! It has a sump at the bottom that will be full of fuel. Drain some out by slightly tipping the assembly then fully withdraw the pump from the tank. Keep it vertical!

    8. Compare the new pump to the old pump. Everything good?

    9. Take a rag and clean the lock ring's threads. Now apply some petroleum jelly on the threads so screwing it on will be easier.... a light coat is all that is needed. Also wipe clean the fuel neck O-ring and wipe it with petroleum jelly. Note at this time that the fuel tank neck has an indexing slot which corresponds to a nub on the underside of the fuel pump top.

    10. Insert the pump into the tank and allow the fuel to fill the sump. Now set the pump in the tank.. it will sit taller due to the springs.

    11. Now it is time to install the lock ring. Insert your left hand through the lock ring as if it were a bracelet and also compress the fuel pump so its top is flush with the tank's neck. Allow the lock ring to drop on top of the pump... thread the lock ring using your right hand. A turn or two is all that is needed to prevent the pump from springing back up.

    12. Install the lock ring tool and push down on the pump again while simultaneously tightening the lock ring. The tool will need to be reset a couple of times because the fuel line gets in the way. You'll want the lock ring snug... not gorilla tight.

    13. Connect the fuel line and electrical connector.

    14. Test! Fire up the engine and check for leaks.

    15. No leaks? Awesome. Install the access panel and either put the top up or down...don't forget to remove the prop rod in Step 2, above.

    ..... hopefully this helps some of you out.
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    Amber Cooper and 01silver360fan like this.
  2. RedTaxi

    RedTaxi F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 1, 2012
    3,307
    New Zealand
    Full Name:
    Glen
    I did a pump in my '07 430 and the tank had to come half way out. Yours was easy by comparison. Im hoping the yellow pumps are an upgraded plastic compared to the original white ones. Anyone know?
     
  3. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 8, 2005
    1,866
    Canada, Florida
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    Fred
    Can the 'hat' area be cleaned up, plastic welded and then filled with epoxy to keep it as a spare for an on the road emergency when far from home?
     
    AHudson likes this.
  4. HIO Silver

    HIO Silver Formula Junior

    Mar 12, 2016
    497
    Northern California
    Full Name:
    Alonso C.
    That's what I deduce based on the comments between original (white) evap valves and newer evap valves that are orangish... not able to confirm however.

    Btw, the RH pump is PN 239811 which supercedes PN 180477.

    I believe it can but am not sure since under the hat are two hoses and the valve has an electrical wire coming up from the pump. And on top, there is only one fuel line port. Does that valve meter the fuel flow?

    _______

    Random question... I don't play golf but if I did I think I'd wanna take the 360 to the clubhouse... Does a bag of golf clubs even fit or would the passenger have to have them in their lap? Any insight would be... enlightening
     
  5. 360Spider_Justin

    Aug 29, 2014
    35
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Full Name:
    Justin
    Does anyone know if the LH Fuel Pump on the 360 Spider is as easy as the RH / Passenger side? I noticed you have to order the LH Pump with the Fuel Level indicator...how hard is it to reuse the indicator for the new pump? I've been reading about a Metal flange and difficulties with it? I just replaced my RH Pump and didnt see a flange?
     
  6. mello

    mello F1 Veteran
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    Jul 12, 2013
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    Steve
    #6 mello, Oct 25, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have an '03 spider and I can tell you that it's much harder to install the LH than the RH pump. The LH pump comes with a new and improved fuel level indicator. The metal flange is more like a baffle shield to lessen the float from bouncing. In general, pay attention to how you remove the old pump and just reverse the process with the new pump.

    Some suggestions:
    . drive the car to empty the tank of gasoline as much as possible.
    . pay attention to the orientation of the pump before you remove it.
    . when seating the new pump, make sure that it sits correctly in the recessed area at the bottom of the tank. You'll get the feel of the area once you twist the body of the pump clockwise and counter-clockwise slightly.
    . when installing the new pump, be careful not to bend the float arm.
    . you will have to install the new pump at an angle with the float arm into the tank first.
    . Make sure the float is in back of the splash shield.
    . I use a light fixture pull chain with a large fishing hook attach to one end to set the float arm. You will need to pull up the arm occassionally in order to seat the pump correctly.
    . take lots of before and after pictures in case you need to redo the install.

    In the first picture, the pump on the left is the old design, the new, on the right. Notice the flatter float design. It's an improvement to correct the dreaded "the tank is never full" syndrome. The second picture is the new pump installed. The third picture shows that the top of the old pump is white, the new pump with a light orange tint.
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  7. derekmines

    derekmines Formula Junior

    Dec 12, 2013
    284
    Melksham, UK
    Full Name:
    Derek
    My clubs lie quite happily on the shelf behind the seats... the trolley is a bit more of a challenge but the bag and its contents are quite fine.
     
  8. colorfull

    colorfull Formula 3
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    Sep 12, 2020
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    John Napoli
  9. E60 M5

    E60 M5 Moderator
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    Jan 2, 2006
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    colorfull likes this.
  10. waterman

    waterman Rookie
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    Nov 18, 2022
    27
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    Ralph
    Hey HIO Silver,

    Thank you very much for your post on replacing the fuel pumps in a 430 spider. Mine is a 2006 and it went exactly like you described. The left pump was struggle to get out as there was a "nub" that stuck out from the pocket in the bottom of the tank and held onto the metal plate on the bottom of pump assembly. I had to stick my hand in the tank and rotate the pump to get things lined up so I could pull the pump. Also, it took me a few tries to realize I had to push the white square on the fuel connector to release it. Other then that, all went well. Even cut an 18" prop for the back lid like you suggested. Thanks again.
     

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