How to remove "Cloudy Spots" from Paint??

There is a thread on the 348/355 board with an on-going paint rejuvination project. You may learn something there. Me thinks your paint is oxidized and needs at least a wet sand job. But, go read..

 

Wash, clay bar, polish and then wax and see what it looks like. It that doesn't do the trick, wet sand and do it all again.

 

Another possibility might be that the clear coat has been compounded off in spots, exposing the paint. If this is the case, when you rub wax over the suspected area your wax pad will pick up dark material inherent in the paint. I believe the paint is burned into at this point & requires repaint. Hope this is 'not' your problem.

 

the paint has failed at this point you're lookin' at a respray

 

I dunno, before you bail, why not take it to a good detailer and let him take a shot, nothing to lose, everything to gain.

A $400 detailing is a hell of a lot cheaper than a respray.

From what you describe, it sounds similar to a problem I had on a guards red Porsche some years back. In my case, the paint was exposed to acid (from a nearby concrete plant) and then got rained on. Made a real mess. Had blotchy cloudy spots all over the car.

I got the car professionally detailed, which helped a lot, but I knew that eventually the car would need a respray. It would buff out, and them re-appear about 6-8 weeks later.

good luck!!

DM

 

+1, you need professional help, but ultimately it may simply require a respray. Get a couple expert opinions first.

 

I detailed for many yrs and a simple detail is only gonna prolong the inevitable jmo good luck either way hope it's not a huge $$ redo

 

W/O seeing it it's tough to tell but, just buff and wax as the others have said until your ready for the paint booth. Can you poss. post a pic??

 

I'm not a pro detailer, and I am sure there are better processes and products out there. But I do maintain my own car and detail it to the best of my abilities and garage space.

I use Meguiar's products in a three step process maybe once every 2-3 years. The first time I did it, the difference was amazing. While clay removes contaminants from a relatively freshly waxed and maintained paint job, the swirl remover does a much better job for a finish with an unknown history or one that has some scratches, stains and blotches. The swirl remover doesn't cut as deep as a compound, but does clean the paint. For the first time user, it is also safer to use than a compound. The first time I used it I was amazed with the results, and before hand, I thought my car looked good.

I use Meguiar's Swirl Remover 2.0, followed by their Machine Glaze, and then their High Tech Yellow Wax. I apply and buff it with my Porter-Cable RO buffer machine with Griot's medium (for the swirl remover) and soft (for the polish and wax) pads. In between, I wax it 2x per year.

The paint on my 308 from a foot away looks like it is liquid red lipstick (to me anyway, all this is subjective). Up close with your face laid on the car (as I do on occasion, don't we all?), you can see I still have some swirls and deeper scratches. I am dealing with these with a slightly more aggressive compound, slowly, over time.

Also, don't be scared by the wet-sand process. I tried this behind my rear wheels under the black lines, as those quarter panels where real "choppy" when I first acquired the car. With a 2000 grit wet-sand paper, rubbing gently by hand with plenty of water, I found the process to be safe. Then polish and wax.

Good luck,
Phil

 

True on a newer model, but on a 308 with original paint, there is no clear coat, it's a single stage paint.

Phil

 

Frank,

You need a full detail with heavy compounding. After, your paint will look as good as new. Our f355 restoration is an example of a extreme custom detail. Our standard $350-$400 package detail would satisfy most. We would need your car for 2-3 full days. If your not satisfied with the results, the detail is on us.

Link to our F355 paint correction. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284038

 

Single stage paint is prone to oxidation, that is what your seeing. Red cars will start to turn pink.

 

Figured I'd post a photo, not the best shot, it's cloudy in NYC this evening and I took it with my BlackBerry.

After reading about the GM/Fiero powered 308 in the 308 section, I had to go out to the garage and lay my hands on mine to cleanse my soul,
Phil
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..my opinion, but I would pay the $400......I bet you would be pleasantly surprised.....watch that machine of yours so you don't burn through the paint.....

 

Hey Bud,
Assuming you have achieved removal of all above surface defects using Smooth Surface Clay kit from Meguiar's, I would follow with a thorough rubbing with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. Use a 100% cotton towel and rub bumper to bumper, wiping off residue with a microfiber towel one panel at a time. Once you have prepped the paint, following with swirl remover or Swirl X, then NXT Tech Wax....you will assuredly be please with the results.
The Ultimate Compound is essential to achieve your results.
Good Luck