what is the proper way to adjust the seat and steering wheel?
In terms of proper driving postion, or literally how to adjust the wheel? I'm certain you've figured out how to position yourself behind the wheel over the years, but I like to make sure I have a clear view of the gauges, and a slightly bend to my elbows in terms of distance. In terms of adjusting the wheel, there's a cantilever directly underneath the column to release/lock the position.
For tracking, when I was getting fitted for my helmet etc (trying them on in the car) the guy at the race-shop adjusted my wheel up very high and seat front very low and forward. He said the days of straight-armed steering are long-gone and that you should bend your elbows and pull the wheel "down" to turn left or right. Not surprisingly, if you watch the driving position for the NASCAR or other racing drivers, they're all very close to the wheel, arms bent in a more relaxed position. For street driving... I think what ever is comfortable with clear view of your gauges. Frank
I usually prefer to seat more upright, but I have to lean back a lot in the 360. specially with helmet on, I feel like I am lying down driving. I am not very tall, I wonder how a really tall guy position himself.
Adjust seat spacing to pedals first. Then position steering wheel so that your wrists touch the top of the wheel with outstretched arms. This should give you the right position with bent elbows. From there, make smaller adjustments to have comfortable position
The most important thing is that your body should never move when driving and it's not your hands on the wheel that should hold your body in the seat but your left leg. Your left leg has the most important role when racing and should be in the right position, slightly bent knee, never outstretched. You should feel comfortable enough to put an important pressure on your left foot which will push your back in the seat. In this position, your hands are free to turn the wheel and you'll be entirely part of the car having your back strongly fitted in the seat. This makes you feel also all the reactions of the car.
Definitely true that the steering wheel is for steering, and not for supporting the driver/position. "Bracing" with the left foot does help with the latter, and also allows better modulation of hard braking, by absorbing (some of) the the tendency for the deceleration forces to add to the pressure of the right foot on the brake. This is also why left-foot braking doesn't work well in high-g situations, with a standard passenger-belt system. Additionally, left-foot "bracing" helps keep the body "planted" between the side bolsters, adding to lateral stability as well. Five/six-point competition harnesses take away most, if not all, of this need for left-foot "bracing", allowing for better modulation of braking with either foot, and ensuring lateral stability as well. I was also given a track-day tip, which may help when tracking a car with a standard passenger-belt system + electric seats (and can also work if you have a manually-adjusted seat, and a strong assistant). It can be a little tricky to get it just right, so it's not a good idea to wait until last call to grid before getting started: First, position your seat somewhat aft of your normal driving position, and add somewhat more rake than usual to the seat back. Second, buckle up, then pull upwards on the shoulder portion of the belt, to get the seat belt taut. Next, while holding firm upward tension on the shoulder belt, pull it across your chest, and let the reel take up as much slack as possible. Now, give a quick downward jerk on the belt, to get the inertia lock on the belt to engage, and hold it firmly against the lock. Lastly, use the seat controls (or that strong assistant) to move both seat and rake forward to their normal positions. When done properly, you will still be able to breathe, but the belts will be quite snug and locked. You will be much more "planted" and firmly held in the proper driving position--allowing your feet and arms to contol the car, and not have to act as positioning aids. Again, this takes some time, practice, and experimenting for best results, so it's best not to make it a last-minute procedure. HTH, dn
Irrespective of whether your elbows are flexed or not you need to keep your trunk a safe distance from the airbag (at least 12 inches). This may limit how closely you can move forwards.
It appears from the information on the CG-Lock website that this device snugs the lap belt portion only. This would certainly help maintain driver position, and lessen the effects of rapid deceleration on brake modulation. However, the method described above helps keep the torso "planted" as well. Certainly not as good as a competition harness, but the best I've been able to achieve with a standard three-point passenger car system. dn