Horn Relay Question | FerrariChat

Horn Relay Question

Discussion in '308/328' started by t3thomas, Mar 17, 2009.

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  1. t3thomas

    t3thomas Formula Junior

    May 9, 2008
    427
    North Carolina
    Full Name:
    GThomas
    Working through some electrical gremlins all of the PO's of the car added, I've gotten to the horn which will not work. Relay is new and when the horn button is pressed, the relay clicks but will not power the horn. The horn works on the bench w/ 12v and the wire to the horn from the relay panel checks w/ continuity. The wiring diagram shows the red wire to horn coming from the #87 leg of the relay, but shouldn't it be the #87A leg so that the circuit is always 'hot' and the grouind continuity is provided at the horn button?
     
  2. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

    Jun 14, 2008
    6,825
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    Mike 996
    Don't know a thing about this particular circuit but NORMALLY in any electric circuit the hot is interrupted/made by the switch. A ground is never interrupted. However, it is Italian so I guess anything is possible... :)
     
  3. t3thomas

    t3thomas Formula Junior

    May 9, 2008
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    North Carolina
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    GThomas
    You're exactly right Mike. The black colored wire threw me off and I incorrectly assumed it was ground. The black wire comes from the horn button to the 2nd coil wire of the relay (#86) and the ground occurs at the horn compressor to frame. Anyone else know about the #87 & #87A contacts on the relays? Is #87A unswitched (always closed) and #87 switched?
     
  4. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
    1,718
    Colorado
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    Steve
    If the relay "clicks" when the horn button is pushed, the circuit should be ok to the relay. Measure the voltage at the output side of the relay, with the horn button pushed, if it's ok there, then measure voltage at the horn with the button pushed , If the voltage is low or non-existent at the horn, your problem is between the relay and the horn. Probably corrosion on a connector. As a last resort, you can always run a separate wire from the relay, if necessary.
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,507
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    #5 Steve Magnusson, Mar 17, 2009
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2009
    Your horn relay shouldn't even have an 87A terminal -- it should be the ...113 relay type. The way it's supposed to work (per the schematic -- but you can switch terminals 30 & 87 and terminals 85 & 86 and it would still work OK):

    terminal 30 = a big white wire = always +12V (if the horn fuse and fusebox are OK)

    terminal 87 = a big red wire = goes to the "+" side of the horn compressor motor

    terminal 85 = small white wires = always +12V (no fuse)

    terminal 86 = a small black wire = gets connected to ground when you push the horn button (which closes the relay connecting terminals 30 & 87 together).

    Since your relay "clicks" when the horn button is pressed, this shows that everything is OK with terminals 85 & 86. Measure the voltage on the big white wire of terminal 30 (with the horn button pressed) -- if it's not +12V, you most likely have a problem in the fuse/fuseblock area. If it is +12V, follow spiderseeker's advice of "Measure the voltage at the output side of the relay (terminal 87), with the horn button pushed, if it's ok there, then measure voltage at the horn (big red wire) with the button pushed".
     
  6. t3thomas

    t3thomas Formula Junior

    May 9, 2008
    427
    North Carolina
    Full Name:
    GThomas
    Thanks Steve. The relay doesn't have an 87A, but rather two #87 terminals, one which I was incorrectly assuming was 'A'. The relay is wired exactly as you described and the voltage at both the single and double white wires is always 12v, however no voltage to the 87 connector when the horn button is pressed? I also switched out relays to see if perhaps there was a defect, but the same measurements and results occured. What am I missing?
     
  7. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    I wasn't clear in my description -- are you measuring the voltage on the large white wire of terminal 30 when the relay is in place and the horn button is pressed? If you have a bad, high resistance connection upstream in a circuit (like at the fuse/fuseblock), the voltage at a downstream point can measure OK when the current is 0, but it will drop when the current is not 0. An easier way to get access (without having the relay in place) is to use a jumper wire to directly connect the 30 female terminal in the relay socket to the 87 female terminal in the relay socket (if all was OK, your horn would sound ;)) -- this gives more access to make the voltage measurement when the 30-to-87 connection is in place (i.e., when the current isn't 0).
     
  8. t3thomas

    t3thomas Formula Junior

    May 9, 2008
    427
    North Carolina
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    GThomas
    I am measuring the voltage on the large white wire on the back of the relay panel with the relay in place and not pressing the horn button. I did not measure the voltage at this location while pressing the horn button. I'll try the jumper this evening.
     
  9. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,689
    North shore, MA
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    THE Birdman
    Keep in mind that the fuse which powers the relay and that which runs the horn are different. So it's possible that the circuit running the coil on the relay has power and the circuit passing through the "switch" of the relay to the horn doesn't have power. Check the fuse and power all the way to the horn.

    Also, check the ground on the horn.

    Jonathan
     
  10. t3thomas

    t3thomas Formula Junior

    May 9, 2008
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    GThomas
    Yea!!!! The horn works. After reviewing the wiring diagram I noticed the battery wire to the fuse was missing (imagine that). So now it works after installing another wire. Only problem is that the right front and left rear running lights (which previously didn't work at all) are on all the time both switched and unswitched. I knew this wasn't going to be easy.
     
  11. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #11 Steve Magnusson, Mar 18, 2009
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2009
    It never is ;)

    First thing you might try is to carefully check/match the wire colors & connections at the fuses on the schematic to your car -- (you'll be lucky if it is this easy :), but) perhaps some wires got switched around.

    Were your radiator fans also not working? Your schematic (Euro 308QV) shows that that large +12V "battery" wire going to the top of the horn fuse is also bridged over by the fuseblock to the two fuses to the right that run the radiator fans -- or do you have a lot of obvious non-stock "wiring modifications"?
     
  12. GCalo

    GCalo F1 Veteran

    Sep 15, 2004
    7,645
    Northern California
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    Greg Calo
    You can also use Solid State Relays and get rid of the antiquated mechanical contact relays.

    See NTE Electronics at www.nteinc.com

    There is a wide range of these SSR's and in many earier Ferrari's these would be great to replace the unreliable analog relays.

    They are offered in a variety of capacities and trigger voltages.

    Take a look at them.

    They are fantastic.

    I have used an RS#-1010-51 which is a 10 Amp DC model for car stereo amplifiers but the lower rated units can be used for almost everything including radiator fans, etc.

    There is no mechanical click or arcing.
     
  13. t3thomas

    t3thomas Formula Junior

    May 9, 2008
    427
    North Carolina
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    GThomas
    Funny, when I replaced my fuseblock with the Birdman block I was very careful to put the wires back in the same location they came from based on the installation instructions. Looks like it really didn't matter too much if some of them were in the wrong location to begin with.

    When I bought the car a year ago and drove it home, I'm not sure whether one of the fans was working or not (I later discovered one fan lying down in the front pan so I doubt it was!), but I suspect now that the remaining one wasn't either.

    When I arrived home, I took the battery out and began the restoration and just recently tried to start the engine so I also couldn't tell you whether they work now.

    Describe......'non-obvious'. I'll leave it to say, I've got a large cardboard box full of wiring, electrical devices, hoses, improper electrical connections (my favorite one was the ends of two wires twisted together, wrapped in masking tape then a plastic pull-tie added for extra security). Don't get me going or I'll tell you about all the other ones........like the air intake duct fashioned from the top of an antifreeze jug and a piece of dryer duct.............etc., etc.
     
  14. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,507
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    Sounds like you've got a bit of "sorting" to do ;)
     

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