360 Help with installed new immobilizer alarm

Never lights up ever? It’s supposed to be off when the car is running. Assume it flashes when you arm the car?

 

Weird. So no other part of the alarm system was disturbed other than the siren?

The LED is directly connected to the Immobiliser ECU (no relays or fuses in the LED circuit). I don't know specifically what powers the LED circuits inside the Immobiliser ECU, but it doesn't sound like a power issue anyway: The ECU receives power from 3 different sources-

Fuse 9 in the frunk. Do your hazard and turn lights work? If so, this fuse should be ok.
Fuse 74 behind the driver's seat (Fuse 76 on later cars). This is probably the main power source, so I don't think much of the alarm/immobiliser system would work without this.
Ignition key power (no fuses). Obviously this is ok if everything else on the car works fine.

I guess it's more like a logic issue or a purely coincidental lamp failure. A car battery reset may reset the logic in the ECU. I'm not sure how you'd check the LED lamp itself except by putting a voltage directly onto it (in the correct polarity).

 

I've had my immobilizer messed with by ECU Doctors and my alarm light is on all the time when the alarm is disarmed. When the engine is off (after two minutes) the alarm light flashes. Everything works too. Weird. I just shrug and accept it.

When I first got the car, I called ECU Doctors with the invoice and asked them what they did. They couldn't explain it. So all I know is one of the previous owners spent like $700 to do something to the immobilizer.

 

We can fix that

 

Check the anti theft fuse.
Unplug the siren and see what happens.

 

Check to verify prior owner did not just cut the wire to the led.. after having an immob delete mod.. sometimes the led stays on… one solution provided to me was to just disable the led.

 

How comfortable are you with electronics? If you have access to the Immobiliser ECU plugs behind the driver's seat, I suppose you could apply a voltage to the wire going from the lower Immo ECU plug (14H) to the LED to see if the LED lights up. Connect the power to pin 5 (which should have a blue/white wire on it). Pin 5 goes directly to the LED.

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There is a live voltage source behind the cover with the red "+" on it. Be sure to put put a resistor in series with the power source when applying power to a LED (to limit current through the LED). Use the battery disconnect switch when disconnecting the plug and hooking up the test wiring. Then reapply power.

 

I know this will sound odd but does your dome light come on when you open the door?

The dome light switch that is in the door sill also tells the immobilizer you have left or entered the car.

I found out by fluke when I started the car, got out of it while it was running and turned it off by reaching thru the window ie I didn't open a car door.

I proceeded to do some maint on the car and then was surprised that it hadn't auto-imobilzed.

Once I figured that out I un-plugged the drivers side dome light switch so that on solo drives the alarm would not arm unless I used the fob.

 

Doesn't the 360 simply immobilise the engine when you turn off the ignition for a certain time period? i.e. the LED starts flashing. The alarm is not going to arm unless you use the fob anyway. It shouldn't automatically turn on. Are you saying the 360 alarm won't arm if you don't cycle the driver's door (open/close)? i.e. you can't arm the alarm if you're inside the car?

The system is not smart enough to know you are physically inside or outside the car. You could open the door, get out and get back in and close the door. This is the same sequence (in terms of door switch operation) as if you got out the car and closed the door.

Is it possible that your driver's door switch was faulty and showing open all the time? Disconnecting the switch is like leaving the door closed. As far as I know, the alarm system on my F355 is basically the same as yours. I can arm the alarm whenever the doors are closed (inside or outside the car). I assume the frunk and engine lid also has to be closed.

 

The immo on these cars is a weak link. The one in my CS gave me fits. With Trev360's help we were able to program the immo completely out of the car. After that it started every time and never had issues again.

 

I actually discovered this way to trick the impbalizor not to auto arm in my F355 I haven't confirmed this behavior in the 360 but the alarm seemed just as primitive in the 360 so I'm speculating it would behave the same.

With the Fob you can Arm the system regardless of it the door is open.

I just found it handy to disconnect my drivers side dome light switch so that the imbolizer would not engage when I drove it solo and didn't have to lock the door. Once you lock the door with the Fob the imbolizer will engage.

Back then, 2007 there wasn't much info on how to disable the imobalizer. If I still had the 355 today I would definitely have reached out to Trev360 to have it unprogrammed

I hope this clarifies what i tried to describe.

 

Sorry. Still a little confused.

Arm the alarm or the immobiliser.. or both? With or without modifications? With the door open and no modifications, the doors shouldn't lock, so I was thinking that there would be no arming of the alarm. However, the doors not locking is most likely due to the doorlatch not being latched on the door pillar. I did some tests on my own car this morning after your first comments, but they were limited and inconclusive ... and since I live in an apartment block at the moment, I didn't want to push my luck too much

Not sure I understand your point about driving solo. Do you mean you didn't have to lock the door or didn't have to close the door? Disconnecting the door pillar switch (at least on the F355) simulates door closed from the perspective of doorlights and immobiliser. However, I haven't checked on my car if the car will automatically immobilise (the engine) if I put the ignition key to OFF if the door is open (after the time delay). I'll try that tomorrow.

Thanks.

 

@Qavion

No problem, I will try to clarify again, not always an easy thing to do on a keyboard chat

So, if you have disconnected the "door pillar switch" (ie modification performed) on the Drivers Side then Alarm and Immobilizer will Arm regardless of if the Drivers Side door is open or closed. Good idea not to push your luck LOL.

Let me change the term "driving Solo" to "not opening the Passenger Door" since that side has not been modified, ie it will trigger the door lights etc. which will in turn allow the Immobilizer to automatically immobilize the engine after about 5min, I can't remember exactly how long it takes but its not long.

The reason I performed this mod was if I needed to move the car in the Garage or bring it somewhere for service, I could start the car, move it or drive to some location that it was going to be parked but in a secure location so no need to lock the car, then the Immobilizer would not auto-enable.

This reduced my instructions to the Service folks that may not be as familiar with the quirks of our Cars to simply, don't open the Passenger side door, otherwise I will need to explain the steps to you/them on how to start the car with the fob and worse, it may act up in which case it won't start .

Let me know if that makes more sense, otherwise I will try again

Good luck!

 

Just a TAD Fried LOL.

Mine was the original one and still working on my 1997 F355 GTS up to the point I traded the Car in which was Dec 2014.

But as I said before, if I still had it now that there is a cure to simply remove it from the Computer via @360trev I would go with that option.

 

LOL.. definitely beyond repair. Usually the LED will illuminate if the siren is damaged or has a flat battery, but I'd be curious to see if a new siren does fix your LED.

OEM sirens are expensive, but I don't think I'd want to break into mine every 6 or 7 years to see if the battery was leaking (mine is plastic welded, not the screw type). I'd wait until it broke and replace it again. Some do last a long time. FChatter Gobble has a longer life battery solution if you want to go that way (usu. involves cutting and rewelding)

 

Makes perfect sense Thanks Carm.

 

I also have a non functioning red LED on my dash but my immobilizer and siren both work perfectly. Recently purchased the siren actually.

Guessing my red LED was cut at some point when the previous siren failed. Not sure how to check it, can’t get behind that thing in the dash.