Help finding a wire crimping tool.

Klein or AMP from an electrical supply house. I have an AMP ratcheting crimper that does 22-24 gauge for audio multipin connectors. One point is that the tool is designed for a certain connector and doesn't do any other types. If you want interchangeable dies, I'd call AMP. They used to have sales reps that would meet you and get you the right tool/crimps, the catalogs are confusing.

 

http://www.starkelectronic.com/eclcrimp.htm

I just typed in crimp tool in Yahoo

 

You can do the double crimps with a pretty cheap tool. I have one that probably cost under $10. Looks just like the ones for doing the barrel crimps only has sort of an upside down "m" in one side of the jaws.

 

LOL

I didn't understand that you didn't understand...... I was just trying to help

Truthfully I own many crimp tools for different needs and I'm not totally sure I understand what you are looking for. As KKRace said, i think all you need is a pretty cheap crimp tool.

Then again I would contact and ask them http://www.mouser.com/

 

+1

I'd get in touch with AMP and they should be able to point you in the right direction. I wouldn't go talking to mouser first, you might get solid advice from them or you might not....it's a tossup

 

Hello from Germany,

since costs for a decent crimping tool over here are crazy, two years ago I asked a fellow FChatter to buy me one in the US and send it to me.
I have chosen this product:

http://accel.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/59603/170036

It is truly a heavy duty tool, 100% comparable with the pro tools here but 1/3 the cost and has the benefit of interchangeable inserts. It comes with three sets of inserts for crimping isolated connectors, non-isolated connectors and 8mm plug wire terminals.
I use it all the time and it's perfect.

Picture shows an example performed with this Accel crimp tool.

Best Regards

Martin
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Even in the US, $63 for a crimping tool is still crazy.

 

I usually put a solder dab on the exposed copper wire at the top of the crimp using a small solder gun and silver solder. This will hold and make good electrical conduction even if the crimp isn't picture perfect! Some practice is needed before going to the car's electrical wiring.

 

That racheting crimp tool is cheap, and is one of the tools that I use. Before that tool came out, I paid over $300 for a factory BMW crimp tool in 1985.
The factory AMP crimp tools are in the same price range.

Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis CO.

 

I definitely do NOT like the "Amp" brand crimper, It squishes more than it crimps.

If you are doing any wiring, you need to ask for a free Waytek catalog. Their selection and quality is great.

I like the 3M crimper on this page, but I most often use a manual Snap-on crimper, the one with the red and black handles.

http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/220_029.pdf


Jay

 

Hi Martin,

I just ordered the tool and am looking for some of the double crimp style connectors that grab both the wire and the insulation.

thanks,
chris

 

+1

I'm ASTONISHED by the prices of those tools in the US...last summer I fabricated a wiring harness for a racing car, we used a tool that looked exactly like the one here: http://www.starkelectronic.com/300-055.gif . Difference: We didn't buy it for the 30 bucks it costs in the US, we rented it for that amount, buying it would have cost a friggin 600€... I see a HUGE market in importing cheap crimping tools

 

Hi Chris,

is it kind of a problem to find those double crimp non insulated connectors in the US ? Over here they are getting rare within the automotive business. Rarely anyone demands those old-fashioned connectors. But in the electronical environment you still get them easily. If you have problems, I would gladly help, because I have hundreds of these connectors here.

I always prefer them over the colorful insulated connectors. For additional protection I just use some shrink tubing over the crimp on ground connections and over the whole connector on +-connections. Furthermore, for best reliability on important connections I perform the same what 'wingnut' suggested. A slight solder dab on the tip of the wire. But never too much, because no solder should creep into the insulation. This makes the connection prone to failing / breaking just behind the crimp.

BTW, what's correct while talking about wires ? 'isolated' or 'insulated' ?

Best Regards from Germany

Martin

 

McmasterCarr

 

Insulated.

Isolated is separated from others, alone, etc.
Insulated is protected from others by a barrier.
The difference can be subtle sometimes.

 

The one I have is very similar to #419 in the above link. Works fine for repairs the couple times a year and I doubt I paid too much more than $20. If I was doing more of them I'd probably get something better like one of the ratcheting type. You could always check Ebay for a used one.

 

It's what we use for the plane and the race bikes. You need to order all the various accessories with it though, to make sure you've got the right die for the wiring size.

Art

 

This crimper is available on Amazon for around $49. HTH.