Help, Can't get hose clamp over thermostat housing

Hi, it`s been 3 or 4 years since I did my engine out on my (ex-Testarossa) - so apologies in advance if I`m talking rubbish - but just off the top of my head I seem to remember having the same problem at the time with one of those clamps when I was replacing everything.

I think in my case it wasn`t that it was tight on the hose overall but because it was getting trapped between the firewall and the hose. ie. I think the firewall could be pushing the clamp tight against the hose itself on the back-side.

Maybe you could you undo the pipe mounting bracket on the other side to maybe get a mm or so of movement from the housing (not using excessive forcing ofc!)

On the other hand as it`s connected to the engine by the middle pipe and also two others below (if I remember right) then you might not get any movement - but it may just help?

Also maybe slide something between the clamp and the back of the hose before you slide it into position (like a flexible bit of plastic, maybe a thin tie-wrap or something) that will keep the clamp from getting stuck on the hose - but easy to pull out without damaging the hose once the clamp is positioned (and not tightened ofc.)


I guess those pipes can crack easily - mine was cracked where one of the bleed screws was but luckily it was repairable.


Keep trying!

Dom.

 

unspool the clamp off of the worm gear and feed it around then spool it back up. use silicone lube and put a lever behind the hose and apply slight pressure to create a 1mm gap?

 

Remove the body colored panel that sits just in front of the grill you have already removed. You will have much better access. It comes off exactly the same way as the grill piece.

 

I wish I had known that when taking out my motor for the major... Getting some of the hoses and ac off was a bear...

This is the first time is see this mentioned...

Thanks!

Bo

 

Put a screwdriver or something else for leverage behind the tubing against the firewall. It will easily move forward a quarter inch to slide the clamp under...

Or, flip the hose clamp around...

 

Try Francos European.

 

Looks like the worm gear is the source of interference. Pull it off and flip it over such that the worm gear is at the front with the slot accessed from a more vertical position with your screwdriver. This gets the worm gear away from the firewall.

Cheers,
Vincenzo

 

Further down the tube to the left, is a clamp which holds the tube to the firewall. Loosen the nut. As mentioned, use a screw driver to gently pry the pipe away from the firewall. Position the clamp, and tighten it down. No reason to take it anywhere for this.

 

The fact that you didn't pull the top horizontal "grill" piece off made your job MUCH harder. It's 4 nuts, easy to get to on the underside. Once removed, you can access AC compressor, alternator, thermostat, tubing, etc, etc, MUCH easier.

Whoever cut through that pipe should be shot and then horse whipped.

 

The brass bleed bolt on the top of the thermostat housing should have a groove cut down the length of the threads. No need to remove it - just loosen it to bleed the air. If you remove it, it is very easy to drop it into unknown voids at the front of the engine. You MUST then recover the bolt to ensure that it does not get tangled up with your belts. Recovery won't be easy - too many places to hide and it is non-magnetic.

Also, the bleed screws on top of the tubes require VERY little torque to tighten. If they are frozen in place - use LOTS of Kroil over several applications with time and perhaps some heat. If you use brut force to loosen them, you may pull out the threads along with the nipple.

Cheers,
Vincenzo
PS: guess how I learned about that bolt.

 

Open offer, when you get your fuse box back, you are more than welcome to take a look at mine. The directions are good but seeing the whole picture is priceless.