helicoil installatin

It's just metric thread, you'll need to confirm which thread it is to be certain. When you buy the Heli-Coil kit, it'll come with the drill bit and installation tool. You need to be extremely careful and thorough though because metal shavings will enter the case that you're drilling and tapping. These need to be cleaned out extremely well.

I like to use wheel bearing grease on the drill bit to help catch as much of the shavings as possible, than I run a quart or two of cheap fluid in through the filler and straight out the drain to help wash the other shavings out.

 

You also need to know that the word "Helicoil" is used as a generic term that means a replacement thread. There are many ways and many manufacturers that make thread replacements. They use different means to size and insert the threads so one may not be interchangeable with another. You may have to investigate to see which kind of thread insert you have first.

 

If you have ever used a tap and die set its easy to figure out what size you need.

If not then you need to verify the plug/bolt size something like 1/2-13 for example that would be the thread size.

you then need to find a thread repair kit in that size.

If it was a helicoil in there you will not need to drill and retap the hole.


Helicoil is a brand name not a generic term.

I used to use them all the time when I was a machinist, these repairs do not last forever if it is something that is removed and reinstalled over and over the helicoil will fail and need to be replaced, this is what you are facing nothing keeps them in forever, but I really have a problem with your oil pan having one since to put it in you need to break off the bottom part of the helicoil thats the part that lets you thread it in with the tool, and to do that would put it in your il pan unless you have the pan off then it doesn't matter.



you need to take your oil plug to someone who can tell you what size is it if you do not have a thread guage and figure that out first.

 

If the pan is off, have the broken threads or cracked plug hole welded and then retap. There was a post on this not more than 2 months ago about someone fixing a crack near their pan bolt.

Phil

 

It'll probably be easiest to remove the pan to remove the thread insert that is in there whether it be Helicoil or some other brand. If you can carefully pry up one end you can grab it with pliers and wind it clockwise to collapse it and remove it.

The drain plugs are metric 22M x 1.5 so you'll need a thread insert that is that size internally. The factory part is 112254 and I think you'll need a tool for inserting it.

A lot of places should carry this, it is a very common 02 sensor size and they get repaired a lot.

Rick

 

When you begin, please post some pics of the effort. It would be very educational.

 

I would take the sump cover off completely before replacing the helicoil, it's not hard to do, drain the sump, remove the oil temp sensor, remove the dipstick and housing, remove the 12 or 14 10mm nuts from the sump, wiggle it back and forth vigorously until the oil sump cage clears the crankcase.

You will avoid getting any chips in the engine, and if you really want a good job, take it to a machine shop and have the insert replaced by a machinist.

Helicoils don't work well in holes that are chewed up, so if you have any damage to the sump cover there are other alternatives, time sert, keen sert, etc.

Helicoils are OK most of the time but they don't hold up well to over torquing time after time.

I don't torque my drain plugs to death, out of deference to the helicoils, just tight enough so they don't get loose.

 

You should be able to get the insert tool wherever you find the helicoil. Buy 3-4 helicoils at least as there is a technique to getting them in properly so if you're like me you'll screw up a few in the learning process and have to unwind them out which will inevitably bend them up a lot.