355 Header Removal

Did you see this thread?

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/147639239/

Maybe a two post lift would be better, so you can take the wheels off.

 

Its been about 10 years since I replaced my F355 headers at home on my 4 post lift but the info that was on the FChat at the time was enough.

Now that YouTube is so very handy I am sure you will do fine, the trick is don't search for Header removal, go deeper and search for Engine Out Service or Oil Exchanger replacement with Engine in place. Those Videos will give you a ton of overview so that you can be very familiar with all the parts you will be working around.

I drove my Car up onto the 4 post Ramp just enough to get the rear wheels on so that the But was hanging back as far as possible. Then I used Scissor jacks to just barely get the rear wheels off the Ramp and remove the Wheels. Removed the Wheel Liners, Rear Bumper, Sprayed lots of very good Rusty Bolt type Losener on the Header Bolts and let it sit over night in a Warm Garage.

Started tackling the job from the easier side first that way I would have practice for when having to do the more difficult side.

While I was in there I changed the CV Boots and RePacked the Bearings, so be prepared to have your Car out of service for a while and get as many other things tended to while you have it that much apart.

Take your time, have an Espresso or two, maybe a Beer once and a while, just sit and admire the Car/Engine etc.

I did mine during the Winter Months where I live so I didn't lose any driving Season time.

Oh and I don't know which Headers you have chosen but the Install effort will vary largely based on the product you chose.

I can tell you taking out the Stock Headers was much harder then Installing the New Replacment headers which in my case were Challenge Stradale Headers.

Good Luck!

 

That was my thread. The car was a 95, 2.7. The swirl head wrench was a waste. Didn't use it, didn't need it. Also, I didn't actually remove the oil tank, just unbolted it so I could move it around a little. Undoing the transmission mounts and jacking up the rear of the engine/trans was a key to making on/off easier. Also, removing the oil hose that goes into the side of the tank (between engine and tank) was a little bit of a hassle. I got it from the top with a big crescent wrench. Take your time and think if you get stuck. Having done it once it's not that hard, just takes time.

As pictured, these are the only tools needed for the headers. Of course you need other tools to removed the rest of the exhaust,and stuff.

 

The tools list will vary due to variance in tool dimensions. What works for some may be different for your situation. Wrenches are various lengths and thicknesses.

A basic 13mm open or combo wrench gets most of the top header bolts done. Various socket types and extensions will be needed. Most everything is 10mm and 13mm with a few exceptions. You may need a swivel head 10mm to hold the back of the bolts that hold the right side fan to the oil cooler next to the fender.
My success was found with the following tips.
Right side.
Remove the large oil line to the tank, the oil tank heat shield, fan, and the CV heat shield
Left side.
Remove the fan and CV heat shield.. also fitting a tubi header on this side was a pain since the header heat shield interfered with the frame.

The largest headache I had was getting the upper connector stub pipes attached to my tubi headers. I had the brilliant idea of getting new ones. There was no chance in the world the clamps that come with the new ones would tighten properly. I went though a few other options of different band clamps with no success. Eventually I reused all the old hardware stubs and clamps off the original headers, but I still feel like it's less than ideal fitment.

Other items that are useful.
new header nuts
new header gaskets
new spal fans (they are out may as well if they haven't been addressed)
new oring on the oil hose to oil tank
new air injection check valves (they are basically off may as well)
Air boxes need to come off so if any of the rubber isolator mounts are getting rotten now's a good time
Y bypass pipe... if the heat shield is loose now's also a good time to address
Patience, some music that puts you in your happy place, and a beer or 2.
The ability to pick away at it and walk away if you get stuck come back with a fresh head.

Be careful removing the header nuts, a shot of penetrant isn't a terrible idea. You may have some that back the stud out. The studs are no longer available so treat them well. You may need some basic nuts to double onto the stud to remove the header nut if you have 1 or 2 back out on you.

 

I was able to order new studs just recently, as on a car I recently did headers on they had replaced 2 studs with bolts!

 

Great pictures. Oftentimes the bending of the header tubes means an alignment issue shows up on installation.

Just so you know, the issue is that the flange that faces the head is usually the problem. It's geometry in relation to the collector presents this problem. If you send it back....all they do is mount the header to a steel plate and use a press to bend it in the direction it needs to go.

I sent a set back to Fabspeed for a very similar issue. They had suggested loosening the header bolts bolting up the y-pipe and then tightening the header bolts. For a very small difference.....I could see that working but for a 1/2 inch......I would send them a picture and get their advice. Fabspeed (If those are Fabspeed headers) paid for the shipping both ways.

 

Call the header supplier. The headers are out of spec. I'm guessing Fab Speed header?

 

My tubi's weren't perfect either but fortunately in ways that were workable. The air injection welding was a little off and it was close regarding clearance. Also the heat shield was problematic with the frame but I was able to "adjust" that. Fortunately all the main items lined up. Love aftermarket

 

When you say heat shield/frame are you speaking about getting them in there? I had the same problem but by unbolting the transmission mounts and jacking up the rear of the engine a bit there was no problem. But yes, the air injection tubes leave little clearance fro getting some of the top nut on the studs. Other than that, tubies fit fine.

 

When the headers get hot one of two things will happen. 1) they will deform which might relieve the stress, or 2) they will crack. Then there is the possibility of exhaust leaks with could throw CELs. Personally I'd tell Fabspeed to to replace them. I mean, you spend good money for these part. They should fit correctly.

 

@Taiwan - do better

 

Sounds like Fabspeed doesn't want to stand behind their produce.

You should really think of having them send you a new set. If one is off the may both be off. You could measure the distance between the inner side of the tubes going to the Y pipe and some reference point on the center of the engine (like oil pressure sender) and check for symmetry. On my ca3r, (a 2.7) the distances are the same.

 

I realize some of you don't like Fabspeed which is your right but the problem the OP has run into needs to be solved. I had a similar problem and the solution was to send them back to Fabspeed for adjustment. They paid shipping FedEx shipping both ways and sent me the headers back within a week. My headers had been ceramic coated so I did not want a replacement set.

They have been great for the past 9 years and Fabspeed stood behind their product regardless where it had been made.

 

What measurement do you need? I have the engine out and the headers off at the moment.

I have Fabspeed headers (for 10 years) and the fit and work fine.