Hayden fan install question

All of the installations I have seen is where the twin fans are mounted behind the rad. and sucking air from the front through the rad. You do not want to blow air out of the front of the car. Check to see if the fans can run either way (push or pull) . If so then switch the wires so the air is pulled from the front of the car through the rad.

 

Sounds likle maybe you have them wired backwards or you bought the sucking fans instead of the blowing options.

 

This is a bit humbling, I pulled my radiator to have it cleaned out and ahd to pull my two 12 inch fans. We tested the AC fan and it worked just fine but i reversed the wires on the left fan and it blew out the front - no wonder i was running 235 at thunderhill thursday.

Anyway, just swap the wires and things should be fine.

When i initially installed the fans, i noticed that a huge amount of air was blowing over the top of the ac condenser and the rad, so i bent up a sheet metal shroud to contain and direct the air through the condenser/rad. If you have a good seal with the hood foam just behind the rad, you might not need this but i believe the 308's need all the help they can get cooling.

Because of the spare tire well, the room to mount fans behind the radiator is severely limited, But given the cost of higher capacity radiators, i would be willing to try both in front and behind fan mounts. 235 F track temps on a 70 degree day is just barely acceptable.

hot about it,
chris
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I used a different brand of fans but mine came with instructions for making them work either way. In the case of mine though I think you had to pull the impeller and turn it around to make it work the other way. Kind of fuzzy memory about it from a couple years ago though?

Chris, it looks like you are missing the foam seal on the hood that would help keep the airflow directed through not over the rad but that shroud looks nice too!

I haven't done a track day but used to have problems with mine overheating in hot weather. I had the radiator re-cored and have had no such problems since.

 

Hi Guys,

I did the foam after fixing the wiring and it helped a bit but i still think i will need to go the big aluminum radiator. Driving over the mountains with 70 degree weather, the car still ran 220 even though driven easily, so it looks bad for the cleaned brass radiator.

The oil temp kind of follows the water temp, untill the car is really driven hard, then it will lead by 30-40 degrees

stay cool,
chris

 

Chris, the old school radiator guy that I took mine to actually claimed that tube for tube a copper radiator will actually cool better than an aluminum one. Of course aluminum is lighter so they can put more rows in but that's why the aluminum ones are larger. I went with a four row copper and couldn't be happier. Like I mentioned I have had no cooling problems since getting the re-core done.

 

I agree , copper/brass is the better way to go. Much more efficent heat transfer. I had mine repaired (leak) and cleaned out. I usually run at 170* most of the time and if caught in traffic with the AC on on a 90* day it will go to 195* and the fans kick on and bring it back down to 170-180* (1st mark). My oil temp runs the same. I believe that the system is a 19qt. capacity which is more then sufficent for the little 3L motor. Most of my corvette's were 19 qt. systems and they had 5-6L engines. If you run more then 195* then I think something is wrong. Just my opinion.

 

The foam should be on top, both sides, and the bottom......otherwise you really are not seeing flow thru the radiator.....IMO

 

Can someone post some pics of the foam. I don't have it, and didn't even know I was missing it until this thread.

Thanks,
Scott
'77 308 GTB

 

You can see the adhesive residue in his photos above...it runs across the top of the radiator (glued to the underside of the hood)...sealing to the hood, and again at the leading edge of the tire recess.

Straight pieces on our 1977s, angled at the edges of the rear strip, on later cars.

The sides and bottom are nothing special , 1" x 1.5"W strips, and there are little triangle pieces that cap each end of the radiator, at the corners...

Not sure which parts diagram although we have discussed them numerous times here.
I cut them all out of 1" thick Armorflex, which is a closed cell foam used in HVAC applications...it's sold in A/C Supply houses...

 

I'd take a pic of my hood but it is jammed closed from a wreck!

I beat on it with a brick when the car overheated, but it didn't open!!!

Turns out my fans are jammed .......I need a Sawzall.....

 

I think you mean Armaflex® and not Armorflex.

 

Thanks!

They wrap big chillers with it....there's a bunch of it in the Dino restoration thread also....

Yes, your spelling is the correct one!
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Not all elec. rad fans are reversible. It depends on the section profile of the blades. Flat blades are reversible (assuming the motor/brushes can handle the reverse polarity). Some fans use an assymetrical blade profile which operates very poorly in reverse of it's intended direction of rotation. Of course, in that case, you can try to reverse the whole blade assembly on the end of the rotor....

 

I think you are correct on the Haydens, they are 'pushers' or 'pullers" due to the blade shape you mention.....