GTB QV 49461 refurb | Page 3 | FerrariChat

GTB QV 49461 refurb

Discussion in '308/328' started by viper_driver, Oct 26, 2009.

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  1. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

    Jan 1, 2009
    978
    Vegas
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    Jason
    #51 viper_driver, Feb 19, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  2. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 30, 2003
    17,957
    Savannah
    man, i tip my hat, as i have really enjoyed seeing the progress you have made. some of these keyboard cowboys throw around these huge repair numbers when the "cheap" 308s that are for sale come up in discussion. then there are guys like us who buy cars with good drivetrains, and take our time fixing the small things. i am so glad you found a good car, and i am way impressed at the passion and pride you have put into it. if anything, your work and thread really proves these old slow cars can be enjoyed by those who really want one.

    bravo, she is looking good, it was great meeting you and your wife.

    miles of smiles to you both this summer!

    Michael
     
  3. ztarum

    ztarum Formula 3

    Mar 30, 2008
    1,302
    South Jersey, USA
    Looks great! I'm impressed by your willingness to go after body/paint issues yourself. Do you have a background in this area?

    I'm always willing to dig in mechanically, but paint work has always scared me. Makes what you have done seem all the more impressive.
     
  4. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

    Jan 1, 2009
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    I've painted 10 or 12 cars in my life. They've always come out better than I expected and no one could believe I painted them myself. It isn't really all that difficult. The secrets are prep work before and colorsanding after. It probably takes $1000 or so in special tools/ equipment, but I don't understand why more people don't paint their own cars. Lots of guys will build an entire car bolt by bolt, but then have someone else paint it.
     
  5. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    #55 viper_driver, Feb 20, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    At some point in the past, the window tint exceeded its usable life. Time for it to go. The car's really never going to see much sunlight so I think I'll leave it off.

    If you've never removed tint before, it's really easy. All you need is masking tape, a black trash bag, sunlight, and some ammonia.

    Tape the bag to the bottom of the inside of the window, spray it with ammonia, and then put the bag over it. This keeps the ammonia from evaporating. Let it sit out in the sun for a while. Then, the tint just pulls right off. Easy.
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  6. AHudson

    AHudson F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jul 7, 2005
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    Adams Hudson
    Just found this thread. What a treat! Home done things that make a remarkable improvement. That car doesn't appear to have gone to a shop once in this transformation! Looks great.
     
  7. MarkJ

    MarkJ Formula Junior

    Sep 10, 2006
    729
    NW Arkansas
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    Mark Jones
    I just read this thread from the start. I love your common-sense approach to transforming your car. Beautiful work!
     
  8. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

    Apr 3, 2005
    2,198
    Seattle, Washington
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    Cliff
    Very nice work Jason - keep it up!

    Like you, I've painted a bunch of cars of my own and have had good results. I don't know why more guys don't paint their own cars....it can be very enjoyable and satisfying work. As you say, it's not like you need a $30,000 paint booth and another $20,000 in equipment....a 5hp Sear compressor, good spray gun, and some practice and cleanliness are all a guy needs!

    Thanks for the pics.
     
  9. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    #59 viper_driver, Mar 1, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I finally got around to changing the oil. This was my first chance to really touch anything on the motor, sure was fun.

    The Redline 75W90NS is the single best thing I've done to the car so far. It feels like I got a new transmission. Before I really couldn't use 2nd gear for about the first 15 minutes. Now I can use it right away...nice.

    Here's a comparison photo of the Ferrari filter vs my wife's 3.0L Accord OEM filter. They cost the same and protect the same sized motor. Why so big?

    9 qts of Mobil 1, 5 qts Redline 75W90NS, and a Baldwin B253...easy.
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  10. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    #60 viper_driver, Mar 3, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The bushings on the front suspension look like they were used up at least a decade ago. So, this week's project is to replace them. I'm also replacing the shock bushings, sway bar fittings, and the tie rod ends.

    I'm impressed by all the engineering up front except the design of the top brake caliper bolt. The S shaped hard brake line interferes with it. It seems like you'd either have to remove the brake line or take the top ball joint loose in order to get the caliper off. Not a big deal this time, but in the future I might change something here....weird. What if I just wanted to take the rotor off? It would be much more difficult than it needs to be, right?

    So far I have everything removed and cleaned; took about 3 hours to remove the entire front suspension. Surprisingly, no bolts were rusted frozen. No problems so far.

    The plan now is to press the new bushings in and paint everything with POR15 black.
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  11. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

    Apr 3, 2005
    2,198
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    Cliff
    Jason, you're right, the hard brake line does interfere with removal of the top caliper bolt. I bought a porsche 911 ('71-'88) hard brake line - after all, the front brakes are 911 brakes - which is a little longer and reshaped it to allow for removal of the caliper bolt. A small improvement I think.
     
  12. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    #62 viper_driver, Mar 8, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    This weekend I cut the spot welds and pushed out the old bushings. Then, I pressed the new bushings in and TIG welded them in. I also spent some time trying to clean up the old bolts, they look pretty good after a bath in Gunk parts cleaner.

    This picture is after they've got step 2 of the POR15 system, the rust remover/ primer. Last step is to paint them black and then I can put everything back together.
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  13. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    #63 viper_driver, Mar 8, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  14. bizzarojoel

    bizzarojoel Rookie

    Mar 9, 2010
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    #64 bizzarojoel, Mar 9, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2010
    Wow, that guy should go into business... haha. I hadn't seen any pictures of the a-pillars from a distance yet, they came out awesome.
     
  15. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    #65 viper_driver, Mar 26, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Finally got the suspension back together. I had some minor and some major setbacks and it took forever. A couple times I thought I'd have to break my streak and let a shop work on it. In the end though, I was able to do everything myself.

    Sure looks better than before--the last pic shows how it started a month ago.

    Rebuilt front and rear calipers, new brake pads all around, new suspension and shock bushings, sway bar rubber, ball joints, new tie rod ends. Painted everything with POR15.

    I'm hoping to go cruise this afternoon and see how it all works. I still have the rear bushings to do at some point, I'm going to enjoy the ride for a while though first.
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  16. bizzarojoel

    bizzarojoel Rookie

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    Looks good. I'll be interested to hear how it drives with all the new bushings.
     
  17. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    #67 viper_driver, Mar 29, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The engine cover louvers looked bad. No amount of detailing products could bring them back. So, I removed them to get replated. I figure while I'm at it I'll redo the grille, 3 front louvered QV pieces, wiper arms, and rear louvers by the back tires.

    Removing the engine cover louvers is pretty straight forward, just drill out a million rivets and pop it out. The part underneath the mesh looked really nice, but once I got it off I noticed that huge chunks of paint were flaking off the top and there was rust underneath. So, I'll have that plated as well.
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  18. fchip

    fchip Formula Junior

    Jul 15, 2007
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    Chip G
    #68 fchip, Mar 29, 2010
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  19. Doug

    Doug Formula 3

    Nov 13, 2003
    1,473
    Louisville KY
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    Doug
    what were your "major" setbacks on the suspension that took forever? I may undertake this project soon and am curious.
     
  20. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    The 'major' setbacks were the brakes. The calipers turned out to be a problem, each corner had a problem all its own. Initially I planned to let those go until later. But, some 'minor' setbacks involving the suspension control arms caused me to tackle the brakes now. The car actually drove fine and I never would have suspected the brakes were as messed up as they turned out to be.

    I found some of the caliper pistons were totally frozen. Getting them unfrozed was challenging. And, I eventually decided that I wanted the Ebrake to actually do something other than act as an armrest.

    The minor setback with the control arms was that I reinstalled the bushings without the spacers. So, I had to cut all the welds and push them all back out, only to be reinstalled 10 minutes later.

    The bushings actually aren't all that tough. It's all the 'while I'm in there' that takes forever.

    Good luck.
     
  21. Robz328

    Robz328 F1 Veteran
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    Mar 16, 2009
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    Good work...
     
  22. carb308gtb

    carb308gtb Karting

    Oct 20, 2006
    188
    Svezia
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    Patrik
    The spacers put you back awhile in time and **** happens, besides that you have done a very good job, I have rebuildt mine gtb too and I cracked the rear upright at the lower coilover mounting, but I have it fixed here in sweden by the same guy who builds koenigseggs titanium headers, he said this was nice aluminium, nice to work with.
    Your car looks great :)
     
  23. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

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    #73 viper_driver, Mar 31, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  24. Tim Wells

    Tim Wells Formula Junior

    Dec 31, 2009
    393
    Dallas, GA
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    Tim Wells
    Those rear deck louvers; are they made of steel or aluminum?
    The reason I ask is I read a lot of folks talking about anodizing them or re-plating them. You anodize aluminum, not steel and I wonder what they would be re-plating them with...

    If they were steel I'd have them powder coated and forget em' from now on.
     
  25. viper_driver

    viper_driver Formula Junior

    Jan 1, 2009
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    Jason
    #75 viper_driver, Apr 10, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I finally got time to repaint the mirrors. Here's a shot of what they looked like before and after. I used SEM trim black, available here:

    http://www.amazon.com/SEM-Paints-SEM39143-TRIM-BLACK/dp/B000EM019O

    for about $10 a can. If I'm just doing small stuff, it's much easier than using the gun and spraying Honda black.

    The mirrors are really simple to remove. You don't need to remove the inner door panel. All you do is pop off the front and rear plastic covers and remove 3 phillips head screws. Then there's a plug for the motors and it's detached.

    I'm still waiting for the newly powdercoated louvers. They had to be sent out to a different shop for media blasting so it's taking a while....should have them back this week.
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