Got fuel, spark, compression but no start

Last time the car ran (10 yrs ago) it was very rich and smellled of unburnt fuel. The timing belts were changed and my dad never got it running again.
Over last few months I have performed the 30,000 mile service and added Pertronix igniter 2 with flamethrower 2 coils.
I verified spark, static timing, compression, and fuel to carbs. It just cranks and cranks but won’t fire up. I move the static timing a bit and it seems closer to firing but doesn’t. I did notice that the cats were still installed with other emission stuff removed. I removed the muffler and cats and made no difference when trying to start.
It seems like the issue from 10 yrs ago is still present. The original exhaust manifold are still in with the air ports welded. I was going to see the difference in pressure out each manifold when cranking to see if any difference between the two. Not sure if those air ports on manifold could be causing problems. The search continues…

 

The plugs were wet and all look like they were firing. I agree it seems like timing issue but I have removed and adjusted rotor spline multiple times, 1-2 splines advanced and 1 spline retarded with no change. I have both Pertronix modules in the 1/4 distributor with rotor set at dist mark at pm1-4. The 5/8 rotor was set at the distributor mark with motor at pm5-8. Pic of the plugs attached.
The choke is off and haven’t even tried with it turned on. I did run leak down test with worse cylinder at 27% and lowest compression at 150 psi. I have 12 v at coil with key on but I am wondering if there is an electrical gremlin somewhere.
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The carb jets are 55 / 200 / 60F5 / 175

 

your description seems spot on - first got back the motor back together and it idled very rough. Now it won’t even start. I will search about the ECUs.

 

Your right - it is carb car and wouldn’t have the ecu. I am just grasping at anything that could be causing issue.

 

Pertronix instructions only say if it doesn’t start then swap leads to coils. I have tried swapping and motor really is rough when cranking - seems like not even close to firing. It seems motor is closest to starting with the first pickup to 1/4. The other pickup would be 135deg away in the dizzy and that is going to 5/8 coil.

 

When it idled previously I did get #1 cylinder timing to about 10 btdc. I don’t think I got to 5k but did see timing advance with throttle.
When I looked at #5 with timing light I didn’t see any of the marks. I have been adjusting spline position on 1/4 dizzy with Pertronix unit and seems narrow band where it sounds close to starting - but doesn’t.

 

I added some marks where the magnets are located on the ring. It does seem 1 spline ccw and dizzy rotated max ccw gets module/magnet alignment at pm1-4.
also, it does seem magnet/module aligned at pm5-8 for other module. However, I get same cranking and no fire.
Also, I tried swapping coil modules and gets the same - almost starts but doesn’t.
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I put timing light on #1 when cranking and it seems close to 7 btd. Ran slomo video and attached screen shot.
I did the same for #5 and it too seemed to be close to the mark. I was not able to tell if it was pm1/4 or pm5/8. I am going to add another mark to differentiate the two and try again.

View attachment 3531478

 

I Added a #1 mark for pm1/4 and did see it when cranking. Will check #5 tomorrow.
Sure seems like it is within range for motor to at least fire up or not be a timing issue.
I was going to spray some starting fluid to see if it will fire up. Seems if it does fire then likely not due to timing.
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I ran the slomo vid with #5 cylinder and it seems to be near 7 btdc pm5/8.
It seems static timing is close enough for it to start. I did run compression and leak down tests that showed acceptable results. I would assume if cam timing was way out that it would show on leak down test. Also being interference motor seems if cam timing was way out I would have heard it.
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I did disassemble and chem dip the carbs. However, I didn’t pull the shaft or drill the lead shots. I have been reading up on potential carb issues and one did find some passages clogged after drilling. Clearing the passages and new lead fixed their issues.

little background- car last ran 12 yrs ago. It ran rough and did have bad smell. Car was taken to a couple Ferrari service centers intent to adjust timing/carbs for smog check. Bobileff in San Diego “adjusted carbs and timing” for 3 hrs labor and didn’t correct the problem. It was trailered to another service site and they were more focused on cosmetic issues than addressing poor running condition. Not sure if also due to sticker shock but It was trailered home and sat till I got my hands on it.

I do notice when cranking that it pops and seems close to firing. But once you hit the accelerator pedal while cranking the popping seems to cease.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I sent the carbs off to a professional for a thorough cleaning and updated the jetting to:
135 mains
160 airs
55 idles
F35 emulsion tubes
35 pump jets

Once i got the carbs installed it was again unsuccessful at getting fuel to the carbs. Disconnected the check valve and verified fuel to pump. However, the pump just kept buzzing and wouldn’t push fuel to the carbs.

I got a low pressure facet fuel pump from Napa - square body. Put the check valve back in, filled the fuel line to activate the check valve. Turned the key and pump quickly pressurized the line.

I tightened up a few fuel leaks and was ready to fire. I turned the key and boom it fired right up.
The dizzy timing was adjusted a bit to land around 7 deg for cyl 1. Then looked at cyl 5 and it too was at 7. Worked a bit on carb syncing and it’s running but does have some popping at idle that will be for another thread.

Thanks again and wouldn’t have been able to get this far without you all.