getting a feel for F430 F1 reliability

Spend some time cruising thro the 430 section

 

I agree with above but some simple logic can answer the question.

About 90% of all F430's are F1's. If the F1 was unreliable, prices for them would sink like a stone and everyone would clammer for manuals. They aren't.

Buy a manual if you want a manual driving experience. Buy an F1 if you want the F1 driving experience.

 

Welcome to fchat Cheng!

I think The Mayor summed it up nicely.

 

Agree with the Mayor. If you want a manual, get a manual. I briefly debated an F1 360, but every minute I drive I'm happy I didn't "compromise".

 

Check with Ferrari of Houston, we have an owner here that prefers the 6 speed, he traded in a SWEET 430 manual, red/tan

 

I have an '08 F430 (BTW...it's red/tan) and an '09 430 Scuderia, both with F1's. I have not had a single issue with either. I have a friend with an '05 F430 who had an issue, but it was resolved by way of a quick clutch adjustment by the local Ferrari dealer and he was back on the road in no time at all. No parts, 100% minor labor/adjustment issue.

Good luck in your search!

 

Came across this perfect match for your requirements: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/3532780910.html

No association with listing!

 

Looks awesome!

 

Just don't let the clutch wear go too low...below 35% or more can stress the actuator and require a rebuild or replacement. there is only one place in the world that apparently rebuilds them and a new one is 16k. Not a good scene if it goes, but not super common either from what I understand.

 

I had a 99 355 F1, 99 360 F1, 430 F1, 430 scud F1, never had a problem with any of the F1 system's, and I drove all of them many more miles than most do.

 

It's definatly worth the wait to get what you want... It took me about a year to find my 430 and I am looking for my perfect scud and eventually I will find her!

 

That is incorrect. Anyone telling you your clutch needs replacing at 35% is just trying to sell you a clutch. Likewise, the actuator would not be damaged in anyway through clutch wear.

 

The F1 system is higher maintenance both in hours / year and total cost. But the system is quite reliable. If the system fails you could have to replace the F1 assembly at $15k, something a 6 sp manual owner would not have to do.

Is the F1 worth the extra maintenance and risk of $? Yes, for me, now drive both and decide for yourself (assuming as you stated you can find a 6 sp)

*Note that in the F430 the 6 sp still has a F1 pump to drive the EDiff. The transmission is basically the same as well. So the main difference is the addition of a TCU, F1 assembly, lower clutch life if you are good with a 6 sp, and more frequent Throwout bearing failure because the F1 always has the "clutch in" when not putting power to the transmission. i.e. at a stop light, your 6sp would likely be in N with clutch pedal resting, where the F1 always keeps its hydraulic clutch ram depressed and ready for engagement, even in "N".

 

I've got an 07 Red/Tan F1 for sale.

The system as stated is quite reliable. Not a days problem with it. The 430s are very well built mechanically and there are many examples with higher mileage (>25,000) Don't let the repair cost factor of the F1 get in your way if you're always thinking it might break. In that case just buy a 3 pedal.

 

where are you in NJ? PM me I may want to jump back into a F car again.

 

Had an 360 F1 and now a F430 F1. Both have performed flawlessly!

 

I would have preferred a 3-pedal but I actually didn't care F1 or 3-pedal when I was looking. I ended up with F1 and I LOVE IT, don't miss the clutch at all and I thought I would.

my F1 has been absolutely reliable.

 

Description of the system function is correct but I don't think that the conclusion is accurate. I say this because my understanding is that the throwout bearing is a constant contact bearing. In other words, clutch in or clutch out and the bearing is resting against the pressure plate. That also means that the bearing is spinning no matter what and the only difference is the load of the springs in the pressure plate.

 

This makes sense to me. My understanding is that when stopped at a long light, it is better for the throwout bearing if the transmission is in N. Even if it is still spinning, the reduced load against the pressure plate would reduce bearing wear compared to being stopped in first gear with the clutch fully disengaged. The other thing I do is to shift to N when slowing to a stop from a higher gear to avoid unnecessary downshifts. These practices are the same as I use with my manual transmission cars.

 

my 2006 6 spd is for sale, getting a 458. pm me for details

 

Linsey- I drive the same way, but you need to understand that the clutch is always open when you are stopped with F1, even in neutral. I also believe all those automatic downshifts when you are coming to a full stop are a waste of clutch and T/O bearing life. If I need a downshift, I will make it, not the computer.

Also if you are stopped long enough, the system will eventually select neutral for you anyway, so it must not like the "must be ready to go instantly" feeling for longer periods of time.

 

Thanks, Taz. I believe Trent made the same comment about the clutch being open in neutral. I did not know that, but I do now!

 

I learned that from my Lambo and never had to have a new clutch. I had the clutch in my scud go to about 20% before I got the car and not only did it need a new clutch, but the actuator went and the whole ordeal cost me 25k...so...not sure what it was, but I won't be letting my clutch go lower than 35%.