I was just wondering if anyone can recommend some garage floor tiles and tell me why you chose them. I don't understand the concept of having open lattices which allow all the toxic, smelly fluids and debris to gather in the lattices. Also, are they able to withstand the pressure of trolley jacks where most of the weight will be on two wheels. I thought about the sealed "coin" type of tile, but how can you possibly use a creeper to move around under the car (or any other thing on wheels). I guess it would depend on the depth of the coin. Image Unavailable, Please Login Maybe a diamond type would be the best compromise for me (sealed and with, possibly, less rolling resistance for trolley wheels). They look a bit too industrial for my taste, though. Image Unavailable, Please Login Once they are down, how hard is it to remove a tile in the middle of the floor? I've heard epoxy flooring is expensive and the coatings don't always come out the way you want them. Thanks!
Epoxy floor coatings are 100% worth it. I don't personally have floor tiles, but I've heard noting but good things about Swisstrak. Best look and plastic quality/durability. Since they are 3/4" thick, light debris fall under the tiles and came be vacuumed up later.
Thanks. I suppose I could use a wetvac for fluids, but it's not ideal. I still don't understand how a tile with lots of holes in it can take high weights in a concentrated area. I'm still not sure about epoxy as there are better coatings (but don't seem to be available in Australia)... "Polyurea"? Also, tile installation looks a lot easier for DIY-ers.
Polyurethane is epoxy The tiles work much better than you would think and they hold plenty of weight. Just lift them up in sections and vacuum once or twice a year.
Ian, I can tell you which garage floor surface you don't want... Image Unavailable, Please Login ...paint doesn't hold up well at all. Barry I miss that car.
One websites compares the advantages of Polyurea vs Epoxy, but I guess epoxy is a generic term used to cover something which comes in two parts (like Araldite)
Ummm... polyurethane is not epoxy. Most if not all, epoxies are 2 pack, one part being the resin, the other being a crosslinker, and being a crosslinked system makes it very chemically resistant and tough. Also, the concrete floor epoxy formulations will include additives to promote adhesion and deal with damp or oil contaminated concrete. My understanding is that polyurethanes for concrete floors are usually one-pack, and will crosslink much more slowly (and only over time), with the result that the surface will be less chemically resistant and durable. With regard to tiles... it depends on the type of polymer (plastic) the tiles are moulded from. There are two types: Firstly, thermoplastic (including, confusingly, a thermoplastic polyurethane!), Generally speaking, the softer the tile, (expressed as Shore A Hardness), the worse the "compression set" will be... i.e. the degree to which it will bounce back to it's original shape, after being compressed by the tyres. So you'll be left with indentations where the tyres sit. Secondly, thermoset polymers (eg. rubber). Rubber is crosslinked so has much better "compression set", but is less chemically resistant. Maybe a combination of epoxy for where the car sits (and leaks), with a surround of comfortable, safe polymer or rubber tiles? My 2c worth..Cheers!
If I were to do it again .. i would look to real tile - something with a good hardness rating and on sale at home depot
Many of the floor coating brands use polyurethane derivatives in their epoxy crosslinker to provide an opaque finish. You're correct that they're technically different, but polyurethane itself is rarely used on concrete for the reasons you listed, and many companies mix and match the terms.
A real porcelian tile floor is always the best looking option, but it's very expensive to do. Also, you're not going to find real stone tile at HD.
I epoxy’d the floors then laid RaceDeck tiles on top. The tiles look amazing, they drain and have a very long warranty. I wash my cars inside my garage since it is slightly pitched downward and the tiling allows for drainage. Here are some shots https://racedeck.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI68mmiuHehAMV0Up_AB1_1AxfEAAYASAAEgLaOvD_BwE Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Can I get a closer pic of the Obsessed Garage car wash setup ? I have the same setup, but looking to wall mount.
They are Racedeck. I couldn’t stand that Swisstrax were 16” x 16” tiles where Racedeck were 12” x 12” It was much simpler to design my layout with even 1’ square tiles https://racedeck.com/racedeck-garage-floors-and-tiles/free-flow/ Combination of alloy, graphite, and black free-flow
Here you go. Explains the difference. https://protectiveindustrialpolymers.com/industrial-epoxy-flooring/epoxy-vs-polyurethane/
My home garage floor was coated by previous owner and it is fantastic. Oils and other fluids are very easy to wipe clean. The top coating has chips that help make it completely non slip. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I went through the exact same dilemma and chose the coating route. I do a fair amount of work in my garage and I didn't want to deal with fluids getting under the tiles (regardless of the tile type it happens). The tiles can really look much cooler, but I wanted easy cleaning. Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you’re only doing one, highly recommend epoxy over the tiles. Ideally do both. Epoxy allows for easy cleanup, which I do once a year. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Right. I took that picture in 2002. It's much worse today. One day I'll get around to putting down proper flooring. Meanwhile I'll just enjoy the "patina."
Hey buddy - I like your pics as it points out a problem I have… In my “new garage”, I used industrial epoxy when it was fairly new (and unstained) with color and chips and it’s awesome. In my “old garage”, the concrete is heavily stained and believe I would have to get it “ground down” a quarter inch (or more) before putting epoxy on - which is why I’m eyeballing going with tiles. So, how well did your epoxy go on over the oily part of your floor? Kevin
Proper prep is important..rent a floor grinder if you decide to use any epoxy floor paint Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Hey Kevin. I was fortunate that my floors were new before applying epoxy, new home build. But agreed with above. Prep is very important before applying epoxy, it's worth the work to do it right
