355 - Fun new problem: Hazard flashers come on randomly after car is locked | FerrariChat

355 Fun new problem: Hazard flashers come on randomly after car is locked

Discussion in '348/355' started by Targatime, Aug 25, 2022.

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  1. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3
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    Feb 22, 2014
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    Came out to the garage at work tonight and my car ('98 GTB) was sitting there with the hazard lights flashing. Pressing the unlock button on the fob stopped the flashing and unlocked the car. Drives normally, turn signals work normally, locks and unlocks normally. Drove it home, pulled into my garage, locked the car, went inside, and 10 mins later came out to check on it...and it's sitting there with the hazard lights flashing. They come on apparently on a delay after locking the car.

    I assume this is immobilizer related since pressing the fob stops it, and they never come on when the car is unlocked. Car is stock except it's converted from F1 to manual. It's never had an aftermarket alarm or hackery on the wiring. I searched the archives and didn't see any threads. Anyone have suggestions on where to start? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Is it just the lights or the siren, too? Or is your siren disconnected? (EDIT: I see you did disconnect it and the LED)

    Usually if both, it is triggered by a faulty engine lid switch, frunk open switch, door open switch or anti-lift sensor. Do you have the old, large, barrel shaped anti-lift sensor or the newer, much smaller/lighter one? If you have an older one and this is proven to be faulty, it's a good chance to switch to the lighter version.

    Hopefully it's not an engine lid switch. Last I heard, they were NLA. Anyway, you can simulate a closed switch by removing the wiring from the switch. Same for the frunk switch. Try disconnecting the wiring one switch at a time to see if the problem goes away.
     
  3. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #3 Qavion, Aug 25, 2022
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2022
  4. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3
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    Thank you for the guidance Ian, don't know what we'd do without you. You know your stuff.

    I thought I had the problem solved just now. Went to the garage, locked the car, and sure enough after 60 seconds the hazards started flashing, like they did earlier in the day. I pulled the spade connector off the engine lid latch and found a surprising amount of dirt, grease, and corrosion (surprising in that my car has always lived in southern California). I left it unplugged, locked the car, waited a minute, and...no flashing! Waited a few more mins for good measure, no flashing. Closed the garage door, went inside, and five mins later glanced out the door...orange flashing from the garage windows. Damn. Cleaned up the connector, plugged it back in, and sure enough the flashing started 5+ mins after locking again.

    So, in short, no real progress, but one new mystery is that the flashing appears to start at inconsistent times after locking the car. Does this provide a clue? -- if it was one of the latch switches, wouldn't it always start flashing at the same time? (BTW, I know you said to disconnect the ground, but there's only two wires -- wouldn't disconnecting either do the same thing?)

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  5. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #5 Qavion, Aug 25, 2022
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2022
    Ah, I had this vague recollection that on my car, that one of the connectors was hard to get to. I couldn't remember which one. Yes, either should do.

    It may be a clue, but it may also simply be random vibrations, humidity, battery voltage, etc, causing the alarm to trigger. The ECU may not be looking for on/off/black/white signals, but may responds to a certain electrical current through the switches. By the way, how old is your car's battery?

    I guess all you can do is work systematically through the switches (cheap stuff), then start considering the expensive stuff. I suppose a Ferrari SD tool might pinpoint the problem, but we do like to play on our cars :D

    Rifledriver says that the anti-lift sensors are a known problem:

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/alarm-keeps-going-off-on-f355.611847/#post-146887111

    This is when we have to weigh up the costs of firing the parts cannon/shotgunning the system or going straight to a dealer.
     
  6. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3
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    That is very interesting...you know, something I just noticed is that the hazard flashing seems slightly more rapid than regular hazard button flashing. Didn't connect the dots, but now it makes sense -- the hazard lights aren't flashing, the alarm is going off, it's just that it's silent because I removed the siren. I would be happy to simply remove the anti-lift sensor, as my car only ever spends the night in my locked garage. Any idea if I can unplug it and put it next to the alarm siren in a cardboard box? Or does the immobilizer need to see it? Thanks again for the assist.
     
  7. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    You're going into uncharted territory here. I guess you could give it a try. You may be able to disconnect the connector on the anti-lift sensor without pulling the luggage liner to pieces. Can you remove the cover for the battery cutoff switch and fish around for the connector?

    I have the feeling it will permanently trigger the hazards, though.
     
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  8. Targatime

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    Ok, update: I removed the anti-lift sensor and the problem is solved, no more alarm going off after the car is locked. In terms of access, you don't have to remove the trunk carpeting. Lift up the hood seal in the right rear corner, remove the aluminum trim around the HVAC opening in the center top of the carpeting, and you can lift up the RR corner of the carpeting enough to reach under with a 10mm ratchet and remove the two nuts holding on the sensor, and the sensor.

    The only difference in the car's behavior is that now when I lock it I get four flashes of the hazard lights, not two (I think it was two?). I opened the top of the sensor (the cover is held on by three screws) and the circuit board is right there. Will post pics later. Would like to be able to fix it if possible and put it back. But if not, I'm not replacing it with an expensive used sensor that will probably fail soon due to age. I just don't care whether the totally antiquated and irrelevant 90's anti-theft system is working on the car or stored next to the car in a box on my garage shelf.
     
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  9. Zamboniman308

    Zamboniman308 Formula Junior

    Feb 2, 2020
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    Will this happen if the immobilizer just auto arms? Or are you locking it? I dont think ive locked mine more than once or twice.
     
  10. Targatime

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    In my experience, only after locking the car.

    For posterity, here's what the anti-lift sensor looks like with the top off. Any guesses which of these doohickeys (the scientific term, I believe) went bad?

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  11. Zamboniman308

    Zamboniman308 Formula Junior

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    Id pull the board and see what yhe back side looks like. The yellow corrosion in the middle is suspect. It just have some moisture damage or shorting
     
  12. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    I wonder which part is the tilt sensor. Q1 ? The rest just seem to be diodes, capacitors and chips

    You should be ok with a used, updated version. You just have to figure out which parts you need.

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    I asked Eurospares which parts were required, but the numbers I was given was for a RHD car.

    Sensor (RHD) 203327 (used U$82.91) See Ferrari 360 catalogue
    Cable 180071 (new to order U$20.21)
    Bracket (RHD) 179376 (new to order U$27.49)
     
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  13. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3
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    Thanks as ever Ian for the tips. I did some digging and below is what is needed for a LHD car. Are we sure the later sensor is plug and play?

    bracket 179371
    sensor 203327 or 177149
    wiring 180071

    Good news is there are a million used sensors on ebay. Not so much the bracket and pigtail, but they're both cheap new.
     
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  14. Zamboniman308

    Zamboniman308 Formula Junior

    Feb 2, 2020
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    Were you able to unscrew the strain relief clamp and flip the board over? I suspect you will find a lot of corrosion or something on the traces that can potentially be cleaned up.
     
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  15. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3
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    Haven't had a chance yet, will try this week.
     
  16. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3
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  17. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Excellent. Thanks for the update.

    I just wish we knew what fails on the older type. Did you pull the old board out to see what was on the back (behind the yellow corrosion)?
     
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  18. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3
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    I haven't been able to get it off. It's held on by those three solder joints in the pic above (on the other side of the board there are three posts, that is what it sits on). I have a soldering iron but can't heat up all three at the same time to release the board from the posts. Any suggestions? I tried using a solder sucker as well, hasn't worked.
     
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  19. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Yeah, I've had limited success with those. Normally I use solder braid/wick and lots of patience

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    There's a product called ChipQuik which is used to desolder and solder integrated circuits. It seems to distribute and keep the heat on multiple solder joints.



    Anyway, something for a rainy day. No obligation. Just curious.
     
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