Front wheel bearings .

I ve been reading the links in the top ( sticky section ) there’s one on this but it seems to me they make a meal of it - changing out the front tapper bearings .
There are plenty of genic tapper bearings u tube vids.
I found this 308 one


I get the S brake pipe needs loosening and possibly the top BJ loosening , + remember where the calliper shims go when removing.I also get placing the new bearings in the freezer
Brakes need a fluid refresh any how .

Is there anything else , gotchas ? I note Fanny does it with the disc still attached to the hub .

Another Q I have loadsa black CV grease , presume I need some other special bearing grease ….what s everyone else used ?

 

I have ordered the parts inc new hub nuts , a L + R hand thread from Superperformance. A bearing set is £16 .New seal a few quid .
I know I could have gotten the serial no s from the links etc etc and driven round town to the bearing supplier ,to save a few quid , but in that time done a lot of work on the car .

Seeing I am gonna refresh the brake fluid anyhow , bleed the brakes when done can I simply just undo one end of the S shaped pipe to facilitate the calliper removal ?

One of the guides on here suggests loosening the bracket end , so s not to leak or allow air in so “ you can swing the calliper out of the way “

I have a pressure bleeder ( used successfully before on the GT 4 ) and don’t mind sending plenty of new fluid through to bleed them .I also have ordered new nipples as the existing heads the hex shape have been pretty chewed up by previous owners .So if I am taking the nipples out there’s gonna be a lot of time / effort to re bleed it all through anyhow , hence undo a S pipe end ?

I haven’t looked at the job to see if the last guys bent / kinked the S shaped pipe to get a socket on the calliper bolt .

I can see a risk if unscrewing an end of the S pipe not being able to ever reseal it back up and note they need tiny pressures nipping up so s not to distort the end and knacker the seal ?

 

Followed Fanny’s vid and used filled down old races to tap in new .New in the freezer and the hub in the oven 100 *C fitted perfectly and went back on the stub perfectly .

The problem was as many of you intimated , was the hard line reconnect .The clue was the upper connector was knurled off .A 11mm hex spanner just slipped off .It’s was cross threaded in by the last guy .So I couldn’t re connect it .
I did remove the soft line from the bracket and still it wasn’t reconnecting.
So have ordered a new S hard line ( with connectors ) and a new soft brake pipe in case it’s that end thread .

I used the superglue method with the calliper shims .

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I first took the lower off to remove the calliper , but couldn’t reconnect it .So removed the calliper ( again ) and lined it up , nipped it up with a bit of movement left to help align the the upper .Upper just wasn’t playing ball !
So as said new hard line and new soft line .I have left the upper chassis’s frame soft line connector in at the mo until I can tell which threads been screwed up .Suspect it s the hard line .

 

Following on .
Superperformance sent new parts a new hard line S pipe in copper .A new soft line and a new connector bolt .

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New parts arrived
S shaped cooper hard line , new soft hose , new connector bolt .
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The old ^ line had chewed up connectors and being inflexible I just couldn’t get the threads to start .

New one copper easily bends to align .I managed to hand thread it into the calliper .Phew ! Those threads ok !
Still struggled with the upper soft line connection .
So I removed the soft line from its bracket and use the fresh connector as a dye to effectively re tap the soft line threads .

While out I could easily reconnect the upper hard line ( copper moves easy ) to the soft , ie line it all up .But put the nut and stake flap on the line at the hard end before joining the two up .
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Then I ( used a dermal ) cut the bracket side off to re slot the lines back in .This saves undoing the top ball joint fighting with its split pin etc etc .

Slotted the joint back into the bracket .Tightened up and re staked the bolts .It’s the stake wrapping Fwds that prevents the joint slipping out .

In the future I never have to separate this hard line again to remove a calliper as there’s enough flexibility with the soft line .

Just un stake that flange loosen the joint and slide out the connector.
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Finished ^ the stake Fwds holds it from slipping out .

So the hot tip , take away is order a new copper S hard line and optionally consider adapting the line bracket so you can simply slide the joint out without touching the ball joint .