Forgot to add fuel stabilizer

FWIW, I don't put in fuel stabilizer at all (my mechanic told me not to) but this is a personal choice.
My results for over 10 years have been successful. Individual results may very.

 

Any specific reason? I use Sta-bil and it seems that's the consensus in this forum.

I am sure my mechanic would like to see me often, and I dont think its because of my personality.

 

Aside from the fact that I've never used it before?? I've been storing my sports cars for a long time now, not needed to use fuel stabilizer, I just make sure the tank is full when I store the car. Then, I drive like hell when I put the car back on the road to get rid of the "old" gas.

Maybe I should be using it, I dunno. I asked my mechanic about the stabilizer, and he said no, my car doesn't need it. He mentioned that some of them are formulated for carburated (sp?) engines and those wouldn't be ideal for my situation. I can't remember his exact reasoning now since it was a while ago.

I'm not planning to defend or refute either position - to each his own. I've just never used a stabilizer and I've never had a problem in the Spring.

If you do, more power to you!

 

Please do not store cars with full tanks of fuel if the car is going to sit longer than 3 weeks. The fuel starts separate and when you start the vehicle up again, the fuel has actually changed composition. The ethanol will eat the rubber in the fuel system.

When storing for longer than 3 weeks, add any type of race fuel that does not have ethanol. Race fuel typically has a shelf life of 2 years.

 

I have stored cars for 30+ years. I have never used fuel stabilizer, I have never had a problem.

Nice thing about the 430 is you can burn through a tank of gas fairly quickly.

 

I've heard both sides of the coin. I generally don't store for months at a time but rather try to drive the car on the sporadic nice day. For example we had an out of the blue near 50's sunny day after the rains washed the salt away on Wednesday and a small group of local car guys met for Lunch. It was nice to drive the car on a nice day, with the roads not crappy with salt. Plus I got to get the Maryland State vehicle emissions tested on the same day and the F430 passed w flying colors. So on occasions like this it's nice to take the car out during the "off season" so to speak. Anyone know if it's good or helpful to sometimes run 100 octane unleaded race fuel like Sonoco GT100 in the tank or maybe put a few gallons in w the 93 ... Figured w some driving w that it'll keep thinks clean in the system, no? What about storing with some GT100 mixed into 93 fuel say for a couple of months?

 

Respectfully disagree with you here. Though I cannot competently comment on the durability of standard pump fuel relative to race fuel, I will state that I have been told a full fuel tank can reduce the likelihood of condensation in the fuel system, thereby introducing water which is bad news.

My 360 has been stored with a full tank for 4 months now.

 

I never used fuel stabilizer and I never will. I don't like the idea of adding liquids in my tank other than gas.

 

I agree with IDRIVEM5, I've been storing my 308 QV for the past 10 years with a full tank, never added any kind of fuel additives and sitting in my garage from late November to April.
never had any problems starting and burning the fuel.

I also believe not filling up gas tank, condensation will occur from the gas vapour and can corrode gas tanks.
now with my addition of my 360 I continue filling up both 308 and 360 and no additives.

 

I've used Stabil and that's exactly what it does. If the car is going to sit for months, its just a good idea. It doesn't damage anything. However, degraded fuel will give you quite the bill when your fuel system turns to hell.

 

I've used Stabil in the past with no issues. If your car is going to be idle for many, many months I would dump some in, it won't hurt anything and probably will help some.

 

If your car has been sitting for three months, there may already be condensation and fuel degradation, which fuel stabilizer will not correct. But adding some now could help the fuel from getting worse. You will know you have bad gas when you try starting the car and it's slow to start, initially idles rough, or has puffs of dark smoke when you start it up after being in storage. If it starts up clean and runs smooth, you are lucky, but still might have some build up or unwanted moisture lingering in the bottom of the fuel tank.

Gas-ethanol blends only have a shelf life of maybe six months. They do worse in humid environments and better in dry. I always use stabilizer as I've learned the hard way from storing all sorts of motors from lawn mowers to boats to cars over the years. Startron, Sta-Bil, Lucas Oil, and even Ford Motorcraft all make a stabilizer to keep gas from going bad.

 

Similar Question. I have stored my '85 308 GTSi over the winter (without a stabilizer) and now it cranks but won't start. Appears to be a fuel feed issue. Any thoughts or suggestions short of a service call? I have rad one article here about removing the air box and investigating the central portion of the fuel pump.

 

Hi Guys,
Been away for several years, moving, remodeling rental properties, yada, yada, yada. My 77 308 has been stored for about 6-7 years, as life intervened. I am about done with my dad's old 74 911 restomod and am thinking seriously about getting the 308 running. about 3 years ago i added some Stabil, but i'm concerned that was not enough. My initial plan is to:
Install a new AGM battery.
Check all fuel hoses, a year or so before storage, I overhauled the carbs, installed Suderia Rampante tank hoses, did a minor service.
Drain all old fuel, replace filter.
Change fluids, trans, engine, brake fluid, coolant.
Pull Plugs, squirt "Fogging oil" into cylinders.
Inspect all coolant/fuel hoses.
Air up tires, clean glass and body.
Crank it over till i have pressure, replace fuel pump fuse, plugs and fire it up.

I'm concerned that the long "Nap" may have turned the gas in the carbs to jello, or worse.
Is there some way to clear the carbs, other than removing the tops and sucking out any residue - or is there some magical chemical additive that will do the job???

Given the length of time and the fact that the T belts probably have 20K on them, I plan to do a full major service, once i get it running.

Any and all advice appreciated,
Thanks,
chris

Stock 77 308 GTB, flowmaster muffler, rebuilt carbs, single distributor, 360 rear brakes, including P brake, F 50 fronts, big MC, 22 mm anti roll bars bigger coils, QA-1s poly bushings, 360 wheels, MSD, Mocal oil thermostat & cooler, aeroquip lines.

 

I seldom fill my tank. I do drive my car but not every day. I try to get a "turnover" of fuel by keeping less than 1/2 tank in the car. I have old motorcycles too. I use the Stabil product in them since they get less use. Never have had a problem with anything I have used Stabil in. I tend to be in the camp of "it can't hurt"

I can attest to E-85 being a pain in the a**. I have a built turbo race engine that has been tuned for E-85. I can tell you the Alcohol reeks havoc on the fuel system-- replacing injectors, fuel lines, and anything aluminum once disassembled shows a build up of the white powder corrosion. Kinda makes a good case for Ethanol free fuel in cars and bikes you let sit for a while.

 

7 years is a long time for any car to be off the road, more so an F car. Depending on the location and method of storage I would suggest the following in addition to your carb list - you probably know this already….

Replace the tyres - they will be shot because of age. In addition to the hoses, check all the rubbers and seals on the car as they also degrade with age. I would inspect your brake hoses (and discs) as well.

Carbs can be very temperamental. My suggestion is not to clean them initially as the “magic” cleaners can have a habit of loosening up residue which can cause blockages or worse. The stuff available locally where I am is aimed more at the supermarket trolley market than performance cars.

 

Thanks Houthie and KC,
I'll drain the defiled gas/filter and the other steps to see what else might be needed to resurrect the Verde Pino beauty.
Thanks,
chris

 

Interesting read. never used Stabil or anything in any of my cars. Maybe I should have while working on it for months at a time? Oh well...

 

Is it possible that either option makes no difference? Some here have been storing cars for extended periods of time for decades without stabilizer. Others (like me) have been storing cars over the winter for 5+ months for decades with stabilizer. Apparently, either way seems to make little difference come Springtime starting/driving.

 

Most of us have gas powered yard equipment, recreational vehicles, generators, besides automobiles, some of which don't get driven/used for extended periods of time - in the case of my generator, a few years. At the next power outage, i could not get my generator to fire, even tried starter fluid - no luck. I asked my "real mechanic" for some assistance, and he quickly zeroed in on the carburetor. I believe there was corrosion and some funky deposits No luck, fortunately, he was able to source a new carb for $85.00 - a real deal. This whole episode was shortly after our savy politicians negotiated the introduction of alcohol into our gasoline. My buddy said he had seen a lot of fuel system components that were adversely affected by this junk.
unfortunately, here in Kalifoania, we are forbidden, on pain of death, (Or Worse) if we put NON-Alcohol gas in our cars that see use on our highways.
Shortly thereafter, i had a chat with one of the Tecs at "Razor Sharp" a local chain saw shop that also maintains yard equipment. I asked him how much trouble he was having from the Alcohol contaminated gas, What percentage of his work was fuel system work due to alcohol deterioration - HIS REPLY WAS, OH, PROBABLY 60-65%.
I have been taking a half dozen 5-gallon cans to the local petroleum distributor, where i signed in blood, that the alcohol free 92 octane i was buying for my yard equipment would NEVER< NEVER be put into a road car. Now, this might sound like a savvy work around, until you have to pay $$$$ 7.00-$$$ 8.00, PER GALLON,
I look forward to some more definitive information from those more experienced.
A few years ago, i refitted the fuel system with Dave Helms, SRI improved hoses. I expect they will be fine, it is just the 40 DCNs I'm worried about.
chris

 

Walbro finally started offering alcohol proof diaphragms and primer bulbs. Thus carbs in yard equipment can be "future proofed" with those parts. The ethanol still eats the plastic fuel lines. The thin rubber diaphragms work as the fuel pump (flexing up and down to pump) but stop when they get brittle. CA has already banned 2-stroke engines and probably all gas equipment soon.

Gotta keep the scam at the pump going though for road cars. Use a ton of diesel in tractors, mine up fertilizer, use lots of water then grind up the corn + ferment to put into gas. Stupid.

 

Gas with ethanol gels faster than pure gas. Without getting in politics, the corn lobby sure does a good job at convincing everyone that corn is the best thing since sliced bread for everything. That said, the "up to 10%" of ethanol in regular pump gas varies wildly and is hardly ever the full amount because it's typically more money. The more ethanol, the faster your gas will go bad and gel up and clog carbs. Used regularly, almost every vehicle maker has now accounted for ethanol in gas in regards to what types of seals they use and it's no longer the issue it use to be. However, on older cars with original plastic/seals/etc for the fuel system, it can certainly break things down faster. I guess you could argue we went through the same thing when car were not use to running on unleaded gas.

That said, non-ethanol gets you better fuel economy and is they use for typical MPG ratings during testing. I guarantee you if it was mandated that fuel economy testing had to use pump gas with ethanol, the car manufacturers would all of a sudden care about how much ethanol was in the gas.