I have to say it does look very good having a modern screen in there
On a related note, what are the current favourite top end stereos to place in an FF? This seemed to be the best Pioneer I could find? Pioneer SPH-DA360DAB Wireless Apple Carplay and Android Auto DAB Are there any better models? Or can you get a wider screen into the car?
I was just at the stereo shop where I purchased the stereo and they couldn’t find the problem. “Amp overload” came up on the screen when he moved the fader all the way back and turned up the volume. Then we tried putting back the original stereo and everything worked so nobody knows how to make it work. does anybody have any idea?
I can't recall the exact settings, but upon first boot-up of the Pioneer head unit you are run through an initial configuration, some settings of which you are unable to change without factory resetting. I recall one setting in particular which had to do with choosing wether you are using the inbuilt Pioneer amplifier to power the speakers, or if you are simply sending a low-level signal to an external amplifier. I choose the latter as I have the factory JBL amplifier in the boot.
I Did a reset on my stereo today and the only thing I can set with initial setup is date and time. Can it be the stereo that doesn’t have the power to supply the JBL Amp?
No it can't be. If it didn't have the option then the default is to supply an amplified signal from the Pioneer headunit. If you have the JBL amplifier in the boot, then you need to set your Pioneer to only send a low-level signal.
Hi again, I had my car at the two biggest audio professionals here in Sweden and no one can understand what the problem is. The souns is coming from all speakers and subwoofer but it’s like 80% front 20% from the back and as soon as we shift the fader back then it’s no sound. Can it be the harness? We tried to connect a low level converter but it didn’t change anything? I should mention that neither one of the audio company’s had work with Ferrari FF before.
Hi Carl, Given your earlier description of "Amp Overload" I do feel like this is your issue. Do you have the standard JBL amplifier in the boot under the carpet and under the plastic accessories tray? If you do, then you must set your Pioneer to send a low-level output, and NOT an amplified signal. If your Pioneer does not have this feature, you will need to change it for one that does OR you can purchase an in-line adapter that will convert your amplified signal to low-level. Check the model number of my Pioneer in my original post, that one has the feature. It is only possible to select that feature upon first start-up after unboxing and factory reset.
Thank you for taking your time and helping me! this been driving me crazy!! I looked for your model, I believe it's the SPH-EVO64DAB and read the manual. It has 10x times more settings. Im looking for the SPH-DA250DAB because the sad thing is nobody has it in Sweden and would really like to buy here so I can return it if it does not work because I bought a Sony, Alpine and Kenwood last week and neither had the output setting. so I recommend anybody who's swapping the head unit to not buy SPH160 OR SPH360DAB because you don't have these options for sound settings. I will get back to you as soon as the new stereo arrives. I can also add that my passenger displays brightness reduces by 50% when connecting anything other the the factory unit and I have no idea why. One more question. is it possible do have image on the new head unit when reversing? I have factory mounted rear view camera.
hello. Currently carrying out this upgrade. I presume everyone who has fitted this has run the new pioneer microphone? Is there any way to get it to work with the OEM microphone? Strangely the jeep facia pieces didn't fit at all well on mine so I had to adjust them. Also I needed to give the OEM amp a 12v accessory feed which wasnt mentioned anywhere and the loom didnt have the wire in it. All working now though
I ran with the Pioneer microphone. It's so discreet that I didn't think it was worth the hassle. I didn't however need to run an extra power feed to switch on the amp. The Unican canbus adapter took care of that along with everything else. Did you use the same canbus adapter as I did?
Yes exactly the same can bus and wiring loom. The ferrari part of the large grey plug had a blue/yellow wire going to it and the Paser loom didn't have a corresponding wire the other side. I plugged the ferrari head unit back in and tested that wire and sure enough it gave a 12v feed when you turn the head unit on. So I cut that wire on the ferrari loom and joined it to the 12v acc feed on the pioneer loom and bingo. Re the mic, I cut the pioneer mic wire and got the + and - and then joined this to the ferrari mic (just one of them, there are 2 up there). It worked but then when I tested and compared it to the pioneer mic, the pioneer mic was much clearer. I managed to fit the pioneer mic up in the OEM location behind the little grill in the light trim so its all hidden and works perfectly now. Happy days. got there in the end.
Sorry to hear the canbus caused you all those issues! Well done though in experimenting with the mic. It's useful info for others to know before they try the same. It was a while ago now, but I'm pretty sure that I tried to hid the Pioneer mic inside the factory plastic panel but I didn't think there was room. I may take another look. Did you have to remove one of the factory mics to make room for it?
Don't be sorry. If it wasn't for your video I probably wouldn't have even taken the job on. Just strange there is a difference. Also this car didn't have those hidden bolts up high in the centre section of dash that you featured. Maybe it just depending on what time of day the car was built... if it was near the end of the day... maybe a few more bolts got left in the 'spares' draw. I don't really like the mic being visible so was a bit disappointed it wouldn't work with the standard mic, although I sort of suspected that would be the case. On the back of the head unit there is the big grey plug you showed, and then a smaller squarer plug and its the small square plug that connects the microphones. But like I say the pioneer mic was actually better quality. I removed both mics (otherwise you have one rattling around up there) and put speaker cloth in the gap (otherwise you can see through). Then there is just enough room to position the pioneer mic facing the driver and I used sticky back foam to both secure it, and make sure it didn't rattle on anything. Another thing I noticed (which it didn't look like you suffered with according to your video) was the facia panels didnt fit at all well and left huge gaps next to the screen, so I wrapped these in stretchy Milano fabric (like suede). I'll try to attach a pic. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I think you just saved me countless hours of trouble shooting. I have a 2010 California with a JBL amplifier, and I spent all afternoon trying to get a new Pioneer head unit to work but without any sound. I used the Paser Unican and harness, which is the same for the FF. Pretty sure the amp is not working. The hard drive in my OEM unit failed, so I can’t use it for testing and I could not find any good schematics. I am going to start with running the Pioneer’s remote power to the blue/yellow wire tomorrow.
Hey jk83, I have a question for you. Were the outputs in your setup line level or speaker level? Did you use the RCA connectors from your Pioneer (line level outputs) and connect those to the Paser harness? I am not sure how the JBL amp is setup.
If your car does not have the hi-fi option, Scuderia Audio has a 100% plug and play solution to replace the stock 8 channel amplifier with a high end aftermarket unit. The hi-fi option includes a very nice amplifier that is more than enough to drive high end speakers as long as you don't ask it to also drive a subwoofer. Scuderia Audio also has a plug and play harness for the hi-fi amplifier that allows you to add a small, dedicated subwoofer amplifier.
The things I have learned on this forum over the last few years have been invaluable. I got everything working and put back together tonight. My car has the SNDB High Power HiFi System option with the JBL amplifier. You will need to run a +12v signal to the blue/yellow wire on the harness, which will power both the amp and the antenna. Since the harness I got from Paser did not have a pin for that wire, I disconnected the spade connectors in white plastic joining the blue/yellow wire and the black wire for the powered antenna running with the coax cables, and then ran leads from the Pioneer’s remote wire to each side of those spade connectors. I basically spliced in power without cutting the factory harness or having to put a new pin in the Paser harness. Both the antenna and amp turn on with the receiver now. The outputs to the amplifier need to be speaker level. So on the Pioneer unit you only use the speaker leads that are part of the power cable. I guess the JBL unit is technically a booster and not an amplifier. It sounds awesome now. Much better than the ancient Chrysler minivan head unit with a Bluetooth adapter on the end of the iPod cable I was using before. Here are a few more things that could make someone’s life a little easier. I installed the Pioneer DMH-WC5700NEX. It is the latest generation with wireless Apple CarPlay. It’s also modular, so the screen is detachable from the unit. It comes with brackets to install the screen together with the unit as a 2-DIN, but that would not fit in the frame as a single unit. I cut off the part of the brackets that would ordinarily connect to the unit. I only used the brackets to connect the screen to the facia plates. I installed the unit on the bottom of the frame and put all of the cables, SiriusXM module and the Unican on top of it. It packed in nicely. Then the screen with the facia plates went in perfectly. No cutting anything on the car. I ended up using the facia plates I got from Paser. I also have a set from Metra, but the ones from Paser had a slight lip on them that worked very well with the screen. I was able to use the OEM backup camera with a simple adapter I got on Amazon. Make sure the parking brake switch is connected if you want to hook up the battery to test the radio before reassembly. It will throw an annoying EPB Failure warning that won’t go away even after it is reconnected. I have an x431 scan tool that I used to clear the DTC. Here is a photo of the place where I spliced in the +12v remote lead into the car’s blue/yellow wire and the black antenna power wire, and one of the finished product. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
CONNECTS2 STEERING WHEEL INTERFACE LEAD (PIONEER) i can't found the product NO. from your video on the youtuber, can you send this product number for me thanks bro! and i found the cf0007unun31 this UNICAN PLUS are not on the https://automotive.paser.it/ this website, do you know the difference between cf0007unun31 and cf0007unun21 thanks
Apologies for the late reply. I've looked at my old invoice and that is definitely the model number. CF0007UNUN31 I would contact them and tell them you need the model for the Ferrari FF / California. I recall the box specifically named the FF as a compatible model, so if you mention that in your message to them, they will be able to point you in the right direction. Email: [email protected]
thanks bro i am finish it it's perfect !!! my model it's year of the horse dressage version thank you very much , the pioneer very matching the FF