Ferrari 308 GTS QV Project Rebuild and Euro Conversion | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Ferrari 308 GTS QV Project Rebuild and Euro Conversion

Discussion in '308/328' started by spiderscott, Nov 23, 2018.

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  1. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    So was the front bank timing marks all lined up?
     
  2. spiderscott

    spiderscott Formula 3
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    Ive yet to fully check them, didn't have a big enough 36mm socket with me in order to turn the engine over and line up the marks. hopefully tomorrow I will be a step further.
     
  3. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    You can also put the transmission in third or fourth gear and by rocking the car, you can move the crank little at a time, and if the markers are close, you use a flat screw driver and move the flywheel or the clutch cover fron the inspection hole.
     
  4. spiderscott

    spiderscott Formula 3
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    Thanks a very handy tip regarding the flat screwdriver.
     
  5. spiderscott

    spiderscott Formula 3
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    Had an awesome day on the 308, episode 11 of the 308 project just uploaded.

     
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  6. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido Formula 3
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    What a lucky guy You are! Should'n start here up in the first place before checking All valve positions. I realy whas afraid valves would have bent with that position of the front camshafts.
    Good for you it is still a runner..
    Guido
     
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  7. spiderscott

    spiderscott Formula 3
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    Thanks Guido .... was very lucky
     
  8. steved033

    steved033 F1 Veteran
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    I had that same fear as I watched last night. My Mrs. was looking over my shoulder and when you reset everything, I said, "I bet it fires right up"

    Great job Scott! Hope the next compression test turns up no surprises.

    sjd
     
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  9. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    Very interesting thread, congratulations!!!
    Good idea replacing the belts, the kit is inexpensive and you're doing the work yourself, saving big money.
    Hint on belts: Go to Ferrari documentation and download 308 QV/ 328 workshop manual. after aligning the crank, cams and fitting on the belts(this is done easily with the tensioners compressed) , you tension the belt on the rear bank when #1 is on compression stroke. Front belt is tensioned when #5 is on compression stroke... It's all in the manual.
    Apart from that, pulley play could mean bad bearings or worn shafts, very seldom lose retainer nuts. I have a 328 and had a similar problem (bad bearing)...At the end I had to replace both bearings on both shafts (each shaft has an inner and outer bearing), also the shafts were worn, so this had to be repaired too.
    Hope this is not your problem, replacing these bearings (all) means pulling the engine out and splitting the engine from the crankcase...PITA :(

    Best from Spain and keep it up,

    John.
     
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  10. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    Morning Spider,
    Just another hint, idle speed is adjusted on the butterfly body (the knob you played with in one of the videos). If you cant lower it, check the Auxiliary Air Valve (disassemble it to see operation), it has a gate that closes the airflow when current is applied. If it doesn't check resistance on terminals(polarity does matter), no resistance equals broken wire in the heating element. If resistance is ok, spray WD40 on the inside, wait a while, drain it by tilting it sideways and apply current, should work(takes some time for the gate to close and will not close totally... probably).
    Air fuel mixture is adjusted on the metering plate body, next to the fuel distributor is an aluminum plug. Once you remove the plug you insert a long 3mm allen wrench. Clockwise richens the mixture, counterclockwise leans it... make small adjustments, it's very sensitive. On every adjustment, you have to cover the hole, after the wrench is removed, and hit the throttle a couple of times, before letting it go back to idle.
    Does it have a cat? If so you have to disconnect it prior to adjusting the mixture and the engine has to be at operating temperature.
    to do the above mentioned adjustment, fuel pressure and WUR have to operate properly(pressures are specified in the manual, if you don't understand it well, I can explain it). If pressure is not within specs it can be adjusted and so can the WUR. The manual and many people use a CO tester to adjust the fuel, did not work for me, instead I bought an air/fuel mixture gauge from INNOVATE(I got it from the UK). It's an analog gauge with a wide band O sensor, easy to use and very, very accurate. I can send you pictures if you wish.

    Best from Spain and good luck!!!

    John.
     
  11. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    * Polarity doesn't matter, sorry for the typo:(
     
  12. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    * Cover the hole means plug it(I plug it with my finger when making adjustments), once adjusted you have to plug it permanently, if not it would be a BIG air leak.
    Instead of reinstalling an aluminum plug I threaded a M8X125 allen bolt, that way, it's very easy to access adjustment.
     
  13. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    When I said "disconnect the cat" I meant the O2 sensor, it has 3 wires. Two go in one plug(heater), leave that one connected, one goes to another plug, disconnect that one(sends voltage to the ECU).
    If it has only one wire(no heating element), disconnect it.
    Of course... once adjusted, you have to reconnect all the wires:)
     
  14. spiderscott

    spiderscott Formula 3
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    Apart from that, pulley play could mean bad bearings or worn shafts, very seldom lose retainer nuts. I have a 328 and had a similar problem (bad bearing)...At the end I had to replace both bearings on both shafts (each shaft has an inner and outer bearing), also the shafts were worn, so this had to be repaired too.
    Hope this is not your problem, replacing these bearings (all) means pulling the engine out and splitting the engine from the crankcase...PITA :(

    Best from Spain and keep it up,

    John.[/QUOTE]

    Cheers for the great advice John

    I have a feeling this is the problem with the lower pulley also on my QV
     
  15. spiderscott

    spiderscott Formula 3
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    Spent another day on the 308, managing to resolve a couple of the issues.
     
  16. spiderscott

    spiderscott Formula 3
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    New episode just gone live.
     
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  17. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
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    You can make your own nut removal socket using a 7/8" / 22 mm socket and a Dremel cut-off wheel. See picture. Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Or else, just cut it off and replace with the Superformance hex version:

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    The crank bolt just rattles off with an air impact wrench. Easy.

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    The cam bearing is pulled using a special tool:
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    And, Bob's your uncle:
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    Overall, pretty simple work.

    If any questions, holler!

    DM
     
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  18. Saabguy

    Saabguy Formula 3
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    Always good to know that I'm not the only one that offers blood to make a project go well. Or maybe it's a crime scene, I won't judge.
     
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  19. spiderscott

    spiderscott Formula 3
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    Thank you, extremely handy. I'm online ordering the kit now !

    Have read up on the process and will give it a shot
     
  20. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
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    Ha! Overspray from previous owner's repaint - since cleaned up.
     
  21. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
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    This of course is based upon the (premature) assumption that it is the outer sealed bearing which is buggered, which does seem the most intuitive one to fault first since the inner bearing is bathed in engine oil.

    Of course, if the outer bearing got all wonky and ended up scoring the shaft, then all bets are off as I do not believe that you can remove the front cover and then the shaft with the engine in situ. But should you come to that point and discover this to be the case, we would then hope that far more experienced voices than mine would chime in.

    Cheers - DM
     
  22. ferrariowner

    ferrariowner Formula 3

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    That is a nice tool. The last time I had to remove this bearing, I just made a homemade extractor. Not hard to do if you are so inclined.
     
  23. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
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    Hello Spider,
    I ran into the same problem, bad outer bearing(only one was squeaking, and yet decided to replace both outer bearings) . Sprockets were in so tight I has to use a puller, and the bearings were also tight, puller did not manage to work. finally decided to pull off the cover and realized that the only possible way was by removing the engine and separate the engine block from the crankcase/transmission. This was a total PITA, very time consuming, but at the end I was glad I decided to follow this path. The inner bearings were fine, however the inner shafts were very worn (a lot, close to 0.5mm). The inner shafts were rebuilt wit a steel sleeve, now it's a tight fit.
    Don't want to sound smart, but is you don't inspect the inner bearings/shafts and you only replace the outer bearings, you may have not fixed anything. Play will disappear, but will be back if the inner bearings/shafts are worn... sooner than you expect.
    I have pictures on my repair, can send them is you want. I'm overhauling the entire engine, heads, liners, block, bearings and rings.

    Best from Spain,
    John
     
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  24. derekw

    derekw Formula 3
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    I found during my engine build (google Dereks 308) that the best bearings out there for the later (sealed bearings) are the NTN bearings with viton seals and high temp grease: 6203LLUA1C4. The original SKF bearings with HT51 grease are no longer available.

    The forces on the inner bearings are far lower due to the geometry plus they are cooled and lubed by oil so seldom fail. The 328 switched to a 44mm bearing because these are too small.
     
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  25. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    Morning Derekw,
    All I can say is what I found in my engine, its the first time I've taken one of these engines apart. On the other side I thought some QV used the 44mm SKF bearing(in my opinion the should have fit a standard 6303 C3, holds more load). In Superformance UK, the 44mm bearing appears on 308 parts list, so I assume some 308s shared that bearing. I know that the location and size of the outer bearing has been changed over the years, I suppose this has been a week point from the start.

    Best from Spain,
    John.
     
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