FChat Completed Models and WIP Thread

Some progress on detailing the Fiat X1/9 Dallara:


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Rear wing:
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Heb zelf ook een paar van die kits gehad. Na een tijdje heb ik ze weggegeven aan een vriend om ruimte te maken voor meer 1/18 modellen.

 

BBR 1:18 Ferrari 458 Italia GT2 / ESMracing / Tequila Patron 2011

I finished this model already for a few months ago, but I want to show you the build of this model.
I started with a damaged resin model from BBR, a 458 GT2.

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And I want to rebuild it to something like this:

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For this we need the decals from "Decal Doc" from Germany.

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We started to paint the body in Kermit-green..........

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Then we used the molds which are sold together with the decals......

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Now we paint the whole model black..............

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Removed the molds..........

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Now it's time to aply the decals on the right places........

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Time for clear varnish.............

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.....to be continued.............

 

GREAT to see somebody building!
Amazing job, John!

 

Thank you Klaus!

 

Very nice, well done!

 

Thanks John!

 

In meanwhile we did a lot of other small work to ex-/interior and engine bay.

Painting the spoilers black.......

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Put carbon-decals on it and clear varnish.......

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Rearwing with carbon and Tequila decal............

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Mirrors painted and part of the windscreen painted green...........

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With Patron decal and clear varnish.....

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Painted the wheels black.............

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Repainted the racing seat and added new racing harness (belts from MFH / PE-material from Hobby Design)........

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Painted the wole interior and egine bay with engine with clear mat varnish.
It's difficult to see with these small pictures, but this looks so much better than that half glossy paint from BBR..............

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And yes, even the mirrors became a glossy varnish..........

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After polishing the outside and painting the whole inside of the body black, we could build the model back together again.......

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Thank you very much for watching!

 

Just incredible!

 

Fantastic workmanship - incredible skill. Thanks for posting the pictures.

 

Thank you, my friends!

 

Simply GREAT!

 

Wow, what a work of art!

 

Very nice. I have that same car with Pattos Place decals and the AP Models kit in 1/24th scale. Here is the real car I shot at Road America during the IMSA weekend.




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Thank you all, guys!

#Tom: How are these decals from "Pattos Place" and is it possible to use clear varnish out of spraycans?

 

They are not to bad depending on who did the artwork on the individual sheet you pick. I have also clear coated them a few times. They do have to be cut out, but the solid colors are not opaque. Pretty well printed.

 

Thank you Tom.

 

Fiat X1/9 Dallara 1/24

You may remember my latest posts of this project more than a year ago.

Well, after several hard setbacks it is almost finished, only decals are not yet done.

Actually I am from the Ferrari faction, but since I drive X1/9 myself I couldn't keep my hands off this one. I only build 1/24, and the Dallara was never offered as a model in this scale. So: make it myself.

Here is some more information of the original car:

https://www.x19world.de/index.php?go=dallara-geschichte
https://www.carstyling.ru/de/car/1975_fiat_x1_9_dallara/images/15461/
http://www.x1-9.it/dallara.htm

It all started in 2010 (!) with a slot-body from ditech. It had good basic proportions, but very few or wrong details.
I worked for years on the body until it fit for me. Some parts I used from other models (e.g. wipers, handbrake), but most of it is scratch built:

Chassis, engine hood, rear wing, seats, door panels, center console, dashboard, roll bar, headlights, taillights, side mirrors, fuel tank nozzle, tow hook, all grills, door locks, rubber tires, windows, etc. Even the authentic rims are my own development. I don't even remember how I made them at that time.

The model below is actually an intermediate step. My vision from the beginning was to produce and offer a small series (19 pcs - would be obvious). But this would require a lot of work, time and money. Drawing instructions, and making decals. Especially with the decals I am not sure if I can do them in the required quality. I have a contact who would draw them for me and print them with ALPS. But a first try already went wrong, also because I changed a lot at the body. In addition, it would be quite expensive, a sheet would cost around 20€.
I have not yet decided whether I will continue with the decals and the kits.

Thanks for looking J

Looking forward to your feedback.


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I casted this just for testing decals. Isn´t it a nice sculpture?
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CMR has released every livery version of the 1971 Le Mans 512M. Except of course the one that I was hoping for: the Filipinetti entry.
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So now i'm converting a NART version. First I removed almost all decals with acetone-free nail polish remover. I've used this with success on other models before, but to be safe I first tested it on a small decal. The CMR decals came off quite easily. I just use plenty of Q-tips soaked in nail polish remover. Make sure it's acetone free.
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In the end I removed all decals, except for the SEV Marchal ones above the headlights. Be sure to clean off all the residue from the decals. After removing all the decals I went over the whole body again with nail polish remover and then with a generic automotive wax.

I bought a decal set from Ebay, but this set seems a bit too large for the CMR 512M. I've also used decal sets from the same company before and if I recall correctly, the decals are very thin and tear easily. For the sponsor decals this won't be too much of a problem, I hope. But for the racing stripes I've opted for other solutions.
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First for the roof and the rear I used very thin decals that are not water slides, but vinyl. It's an amazing product by Micro Auto Graphics, but unfortunately I can't find them on Ebay or anywhere else anymore.
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These vinyl decals are white only, so I used another product for the light blue stripe in the middle. I bought a 3mm wide tape from Finest-Folia on Ebay. This is quite thin too. Combined with the vinyl decals, the results are perfect.
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The sideskirts and the part of the nose below the windscreen I painted white with a brush, because these parts have air intakes and that makes it too complicated for using decals. I've used masking tape, but I'm always unlucky with slight paint bleeding.
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Those are fairly easy to correct, but I'm now at the most difficult part: painting the nose.
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I don't have an airbrush, only spray cans and I think the area is too large to paint with a brush. I need to use masking tape to get the curved racing stripe, but I really want to avoid paint bleeding. Are there any tricks to prevent bleeding? Maybe spray a clear coat first?

In order to get the edge of the shape as smooth as possible, I thought about putting on the masking tape onto the model first, draw the shape on the masking tape and then transfer the tape onto a flat surface and make a clean cut for the shape, using a bendable ruler. Then put the cut masking tape back onto the model. Will the masking tape still work to prevent bleeding after this procedure? Or will it loose it's adhesive and masking qualities? Any other tips much appreciated!

 

Very nice job so far, Peter.

Paint bleeding is an issue for me as well at these situations, not easy. Well, I´m not an expert with this upcoming paint job. I know there are a lot of guys out there who could give better advice.

But some recommendations from my side:

Generally I guess your idea is worth a try.

-I guess a clear coat as primer doesn´t make sense, could even make it worse.

-Don´t put the masking tape directly to the body in order make a template, instead use a clear tape (eg. Tesa)- and from this transfer it to the masking tape. Do some test before to checkout if it works.

-When cutting the masking tape don´t use knifes/blades – but scissors. The edges will be much better for painting.

-Everything is depending on the kind of masking material you are using, you need to experiment aside of the original before to see if it works.

-lacquering: do multiple very dry layers. An airbrush would be very helpful in this case, even a cheap on. But I know it´s also about a compressor, and you have to get familiar with it. Just give it a thought for the future…

-test wether you can adjust/remove the paint on the original body without damages in case the paint job fails.

 

Saw this 1/24th Dino on BNC facebook modelers site. I am sure the Dino guys will like it.

By Marco Licheri


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Update on the 512M: I've decided to go for the making tape by Tamiya for curves. I sawe some positive Youtube reviews and I have to say that it goes on really well and much faster than cutting up tape.
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I've applied the primer in my home made paint booth. It's a large clear plastic storage box on its side and I've made a hole in the bottom to fit a bathroom ventilator. A flexible hose is connected to the back of the ventilator and this hose hangs out of the window when using the booth.

The model sits on a turn table and everything fits inside the booth when stored away.
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After the first light coat of primer I noticed some of the masking tape peeling off in some places, but not the curved tape. I've now applied the second coat of primer and tomorrow I will apply the first white coat.
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This is my first paint job using spray cans (not counting one - failed - attempt years ago when I was a teenager). Wish me luck!