Hi all, has anyone done this, a search of the archives indicated the subject hasn't been brought up. I looked at the prices for new and they range from $ 232 to $ 391 and that seems like a lot for a switch.. What say you all? Lester
Are you sure that your switch has really bit the dust? Sometimes they can be brought back from the brink. Like any mechanical switch the contacts over time say 30 years get a bit grimey. There are many methods of cleaning with sprays, dips etc. I have found that a dunk in the ultrasound cleaner followed with a moisture removing spray with Tuner Wash (lubricant/cleaner) does wonders for switches of all types. I will use a little dish detergent not soap in the ultrasound cleaner and let it cook for some time. This usually returns a nice click to the switch and no more intermittent connection.
Ok, ultrasonic it gets.. I'm partial to simple green so I'll give that a try. From what I can see, it's loosen the knob set screw, remove knob, and I'm guessing that there is a nut underneath that holds it in place.? Then contact cleaner and re-try. I know that it's not working as it will only function on the full high speed and I have tried the same connector on a heater fan switch and the speed control is fine so the switch "has issues".. ;-) Lester
I'll be curious to see if this fixes it for you. I have the same problem (high speed only, no low speed) and haven't yet a chance to investigate further. Good luck and I look forward to hearing the results
Chris, if you lift the console you find that the heater fan switches are the same as the A/C fan switch and have the same plug (Thanks Steve M) you switch connectors and then you can see if one of those switches makes it work. A quick way to test. Lester
Dang Lester I forget that you have a 328 not a 308. I don't see why my method shouldn't work as long as there is a way for the liquids to get into the switch and out for drying etc. But I must tell you that I never tried this on the 328 switches. Good luck.
I have several. One old very powerful one speed dual axis Bauch & Lomb. The other is a medium power L&A PC5 that has independent verticle and horizontal power buttons. Both were/are used in the optical industry for cleaning jewelry, eyeglass frames small stuff. The old B&L unit actually has tubes in the circuit. It's old and takes awhile to warm up but is very powerful. I have even used it to free rusted stuff. I have catalogs with them about 5 or 6 types with capacities from 1 cup to 2 liters and from 35 watts at 43 kHz to 103 watts at 46 kHz and alot in between. Are you looking for one?
I just looked at your profile and see you had a 66 E type. I had a 69 Etype 4.2, in fact it was my very first car. I sure do miss it.
Thanks. Sure, I'm thinking that an old reliable one would go far in my restoration of switching in the 308. I'm sure that they could all use a good cleaning.
Robert, that was the first car that I've wanted since I was a child. Found a cheap one, read that as needing massive repairs, about 3 years ago and it's all done but the body work and paint. Of course it doesn't have A/C so around here that limits is use to the month of February. ;-) I REALLY like it! Lester
I actually rebuilt a 3.8 w/triple SU carbs and swapped out the motors. Then like an idiot traded the A/C unit for a double point distributor. Never got that working right and went back to the single point. What a great car, that was in 1972-73. I drove that car everywhere. Miss the smell and the glowing red/white translecent headers at night through the louvers in the hood. They were ceramic then. Ah what great memories.
Oh well, disassembled the switch and there are a pair of stacked rheostats. Both of them had all of the contact material worn away, it was not to be fixed. Guess it's time for a new one from one of the kindly suppliers unless anyone has one they want to part with cheap. Lester
Eurospares are showing a used one for around $195 and new for around $250. http://eurospares.co.uk/searchResult_one.asp?M=&Mo=&A=&B=&ID4=&S=61807900&SO=1&SB=3&SM=&SMo=&O=0
Hi Lester, One word of caution with used switches. On some of the switches evidently the exposed splined shaft area where the knob connects is completely made out of nylon or some other plastic which can get deformed when the setscrew is tightened too hard. My original switch (with the plastic splined head) was deformed so badly that I had to put a small thin piece of metal inside the knob just to keep it in place and try to keep it from rotating independently of the shaft when turned. The setscrew barely held the knob on and wouldn't hold the shaft when turned. If you look at used switches be sure to get one that has the splined shaft top part with the metal 'jacket' instead of the completely plastic one. I was very fortunate to find a NOS replacement on 'the bay' a couple years ago for about $50 with a metal splined shaft section that cured the problem. The new switch also seems to work more linearly than the old one with respect to the fan speed. In case you need it the P/N is 62618000 and the new one I found has a sub-code LCZ-4 on it. My guess is that sometime during the parts production run they switched from plastic/nylon to metal jacket (or vice versa?). Good luck with your hunt for a replacement - hopefully you can find one to work at a reasonable price! Ciao, Vincent
does anyone have an old Fan Speed Control switch (62618000). I lost the little fuse cap that is located on the side of the switch. I'd hate to have to buy a new switch. Thanks, Paul
I had the same problem it is not the switch i found out my fans where only running on high speed,what it was is a bad diode it is located in the center duct under the dash there is a metal plate where a round diode is attached it cost me $ 3.00 for the part just resolder the new one on and the fan where working from low to high again.let me know if you need the diode # i got one extra one with the $3.00 came 2in the package.there also is a write up on this .
Haven't been back to see your picture. Those look like ganged potentiometers. Used in audio equipment for separate right and left channels like in a volume control. If you could spec it ohms, wattage and log or linear you might be able to source one from an online electronics supplier. There should be numbers on them somewhere. Examples; Image from http://www.beavishifi.com/articles/Volume_Control/Potentiometer_Pinouts.jpg.
