Have all Superamerica owners experienced the roof problem associated with this car? what is the failure rate? Has anyone experienced multiple delamination issues? meaning that once fixed will the problem occur again with a new roof?
Also interested, friend of mine was looking at a Superamerica a few months back and I advised him to check the roof out very carefuly.
I was close to purchasing one a few months ago & was told by my shop that a lot of the tops were failing and that the fix is a $17k repair
Cheap...I passed on a red/tan one last summer here, it was listed at 22k with taxes for a new roof from the dealer.
I am not an owner but have been poking at SAs trying to figure out how much I want one. I have been told that the roof delamination is caused by a malfunctioning unit that controls the opacity of the glass. Replacing the original controller with the updated replacement is supposed to be the fix for delam, but I don't know if enough time has elapsed to allow anyone to conclude that that fix is permanent. There are also problems with the struts that support the roof, but apparently the fix is relatively inexpensive once one sources parts from outside suppliers. These issues certainly are head scratchers and perhaps reasons to consider a Barchetta rather the the SA. Then again, the Barchetta's topless-ness creates its own problems.
From my [limited] knowledge I agree with the assessment of Cobraowner regarding the top issues. I have a black/tan SA and experienced both strut failure and top delamination. Initially strut failure repair by dealers involved complete mechanism replacement [$17k in parts]. A couple of years ago my local shop was able to source struts and perform the replacement [5 hours labor]. I think that some dealers are now also performing the strut-only replacement. Later the top began the delamination process. It was explained to me that varying voltage being sent to the electrochromatic top was the cause. And that the Factory Bulletin fix was to change out to a new ECU for the top. It's been about 2 years since my top and ECU were replaced so I can't give you a long term perspective if the fix is permanent. I noticed a distinct difference in the make up of the new top vs the original. The originals have a transluscent grain almost carbon fiber type of pattern. The new top is without this transluscent pattern. Not sure what the real difference in construction is but my guess is that Ferrari and the subcontractor made changes in the design after the failures of the originals. I was told but can verify that Ferrari "took over" the manufacturer of the tops as they were going out of business. At times I considered the Barchetta, but it just does not have the versatility I need here in FL. Rain can come on any summer [and sometimes fall or spring day]. And I don't treat my SA as a sunny Sunday driver. Just this past month it's been to Amelia and Orlando for weekend trips. I now have nearly 13k on the odometer and plan to keep driving it. The more I drive it the more I like it.
Thanks for the info Steve. It went a long way in clearing up important questions I had. I agree with the barchetta not being a FL car Ernie
I had the small gas struts replaced about 3 years ago and no problems since for operation of roof. Have had zero delamination of roof but I think this is because I beleive the cause was not electronic but physical. I never drive the car with roof open (unless I get caught in the rain, and even then I take it off sport mode to make the suspension softer and drive carefully avaoiding bumps. I beleive that there is still a fair bit of torsion in the car body after they removed the 575M roof and it is this torsion with the roof tighly fastened that causes the roof to flex slightly causing the delamination of the glass layers. So far my theory appears to be working! Still love the car after 7 years. In the shop having its 12,000Km & Annual service this week. PAUL
Heads up for all SA owners. There is a new Ferrari service campaign regarding the roof, at no cost to owner, to replace a small wiring harness and relay . The bulliten only states "to improve reliability of the electrpchromatic glass".
The Barchetta problem with the top is solved by getting a high speed soft top from Dimex in Germany. You can travel to 130 mph, it takes 2 minutes to put up, and makes IMHO the Barchetta a far better proposition (talking roof issue) than an SA. I have one, it is a total transformation in practicality . http://www.dimex-group.com/en/tuning/imola/accessory/f-550-barchetta/highspeed-softtop/at-the-car.html
I know there was an "at no cost" service campaign for the roof called "Timer for Electrochromic Roof - Update no. 329 and fitted part number 070001753 "Timer for Electrochronic Roof Kit" Is this the same update or is there another new one? If so, might you have the update number or copy of the Service Note? Thanks PAUL
I don't have the specifics but I believe it is a new one They replaced a small wiring harness and relay in the trunk
I checked with the local Ferrari service agent here this morning and they confirmed there has been no update to the roof since update 329 and that 329 was indeed a cable and relay mounted in the trunk to control the electrochromic roof and improve reliability and operation of the electrochromic glass. Sounds like your information may be a it out of date? PAUL
Paul is your car an HGTC car? curious if the softer handling of a non hgtc car could actually be better for the life of the roof. ernie
BTW, from the Service update 329, I see that the final date for no cost refit was Dec 31st 2010. PAUL
Mine is also an HGTC car and I run it much of the time with non-sports (soft) mode setting, although I think it is the act of keeping the roof open, only using in dry weather and only using roof if I get caught in the rain that is protecting the roof from delamination. I do believe the chassis has some twisting torsion, especially when going over bumps and if the roof is tightly clamped to the windscreen frame, it will suffer some twisting or torsion action which could lead to delamination. When it is lying on the trunk, I believe it has some degree of freedon and therefore does not twist when the car "shakes" a bit through the bumps. This is my belief and (touch wood), it seems to be working. One way to test would be to go over the same uneven road surface with the top open and then with top closed and see if the body feels more rigid whith the roof clamped shut. If it is more rigid, you can be sure there are torsional pressures on the roof panels. Personally, regarding HGTC or not, I dont know if HGTC in soft mode or non-HGTC is the softer ride? PAUL
I attended a tech session at the Collection in Miami. I was able to spend some time with the service experts. During one of our discussions I asked about the cause of the delamination issues with the revochromatic top. It was explained that the cause was a "leaking" of power to the top when the ignition is off. The top is not supposed to have any power going to it without ignition on. The fix for this is the replacement of the ECU that controls the glass top tinting system. It's an electrical issue and not mechanical.
During the winter, I changed the larger struts part # 27 . Now, in the hot sun, the roof still dropped at the end while opening. So, as the master tech at Ferrari said, the problem is the short ones that seem not to be able to be sources without the purchase of an 18,000 carrier mechanism. but if you have a helper to press the button I have found that if you hold onto the roof and take a little of the the weight as the roof lowers, that's all it takes. But it's a two person job. Oh Well
Someone can undoubtedly rebuild or duplicate those inner struts, but removing them appears to be a bit of a pain. T Rutman and Ricambi both seem to have a source for struts.
I am actually looking at a Superamerica now and can anyone tell me how to determine if the glass has been replaced . I noted steve Cantera's comment that the old glass has a different pattern like carbon fiber than the replacement, but I do not have an old and new to compare .Does it have some identifiable number or difference in the dark edge that shows it is the newer glass. I am very interested in having the new design glass , not just updated controller. The dealer that has the car shows that the campaign 329 has been completed on this car, but does not know if the cable and ecu were replaced or also the glass. Just shows completed. Also, where do you look to see the beginning of the delamination process, front edge? middle??