F430 air intake rattling/broken grill cover | FerrariChat
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F430 air intake rattling/broken grill cover

Discussion in '360/430' started by V8Fun, Nov 2, 2010.

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  1. V8Fun

    V8Fun Karting

    Aug 16, 2010
    135
    Chicago West Suburbs
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #1 V8Fun, Nov 2, 2010
    Has anyone have the plastic grill cover for the air intake break loose and rattle at certain rpm ranges? This has happened on my right side intake and it makes a pretty bad rattling/vibrating sound at about 2500rpm. The dealer is telling me the whole air intake has to be replaced and that the plastic grills are not available as separate parts.

    Some questions this makes me ask:
    1. Is there somewhere I can get just the plastic grill?
    2. Is it possible to reattach my existing grill? How do you get access to this?
    3. Is there any way a Ferrari newbie could pull off this repair?

    I've had my 2005 F430 just 3 months and have had a number of repairs (all annoying, luckily none serious... most result from the previous owner putting just 2600 miles on the car in 5 years). I love the car and the driving experience, but I'm getting nervous that a serious repair will lead to serious consequences (with "The Wife") :)

    Any advice?

    Thanks
     
  2. alcc

    alcc Karting

    Sep 2, 2010
    183
    Santa Barbara, CA.
    #2 alcc, Nov 2, 2010
    Didn't you get a 1 yr Power warranty? Imo worth it.
     
  3. V8Fun

    V8Fun Karting

    Aug 16, 2010
    135
    Chicago West Suburbs
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #3 V8Fun, Nov 2, 2010
    Early in my shopping I was told the warranty coverage was limited and not worth it, and that not much breaks on these cars. The intake manifold gaskets probably would have been covered though, as would the fouled plugs (from many starts after dead battery, I was told). But the plastic grill on the air intake.... I doubt it.
     
  4. alcc

    alcc Karting

    Sep 2, 2010
    183
    Santa Barbara, CA.
    #4 alcc, Nov 2, 2010
    True. Matter of fact doubt the plugs would have been covered. Was more responding to your concerns re what other repairs lie ahead!
     
  5. Monza 456

    Monza 456 Karting

    Sep 15, 2005
    231
    Portland, Oregon
    Full Name:
    Craig Nelson
    #5 Monza 456, Nov 3, 2010
    I had those grilles rattling on my 430 and I just put a blob of black silicone sealer on the tip of a small screwdriver and glued them in place in about four places. You can't see the sealer and I also have a black car. Any other car I guess you could use clear. Also before I did the silicone I took an exacto knife and trimmed the falling out foam trim.
     
  6. SrfCity

    SrfCity F1 World Champ

    Nov 1, 2003
    10,142
    Orange County, CA
    #6 SrfCity, Nov 3, 2010
    This sounds like a good solution. Some times you just have to improvise especially when the alternative is big bucks. ;) To keep the grills in place when the silicone is drying, criss cross some blue tape over top to pull it out and keep the grill snug.
     
  7. V8Fun

    V8Fun Karting

    Aug 16, 2010
    135
    Chicago West Suburbs
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #7 V8Fun, Nov 3, 2010
    SrfCity and Monza - thanks for the idea. I will give this a shot and post if successful or not. My car is red, but I suspect the silicone still won't show as the intake grill and interior is all black as well (if it shows I've put the sealer somewhere it doesn't belong!)

    Thanks,
    Mike
     
  8. fc2

    fc2 F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Nov 2, 2006
    5,263
    Silicon Valley Ca.
    Full Name:
    Frank C.
    #8 fc2, Jan 7, 2011
    Interesting thread... this could be exactly why I'm getting an annoying RPM-related vibration from my car.

    Can you move the piece noticeably by hand?

    Thanks,
    Frank
     
  9. SfefVan

    SfefVan Guest

    Nov 28, 2008
    1,370
    Switzerland
    Full Name:
    Stef
    #9 SfefVan, Jan 7, 2011
    It's is possible the fix this yourself but it is a bit work to get access to the plastic grill as you can't access it from outside. Here are the steps I'll try to put together :

    - Remove the left engine bay rear guard : detach first the fuel opening handle. There is a small metallic clip inside the handle that you have to slide out a bit with a screw driver. Don't remove the clip entirely coz it's very easy to lose it! The cable is also secured to the panel with a very small clip that you must slide out with a screw driver. Secure with your hands under it as you can loose it very easily. Remove the 4 screws from the guard. Be carefull with the Torx screws because they are very fragile and the heads can get easily damaged (I replaced them all with some real good quality bolds I painted in the same colour as the guards)

    - Remove the left engine bay large front guard : remove the 8 screws. Same comment about the fragile screws applies here. Add a stick to support the engine bay lid. Remove the clip from the gas strut, remove the gas strut from the chassis ball and make sure that the stick holds the engine bay lid well. Remove now the large panel out of the engine bay. I recommend to put the gas strut back on the chassis ball for safety reasons.

    - Remove the left wheel - that's easy ;) - Remember, wheel bolds torque is 100Nm..

    - Remove the two wheelhouse panels. Start with the right lower one which is a kind of plastic grill - 5 screws. Remove the upper part - 8 screws. The last screw which holds the mudguard must be removed from inside the engine bay.It's the one that secures the panel on the air intake duct.

    - Undo the 3 nuts that secure the air intake duct to the body. Be carefull with the gasket which is between the air intake duct and the grill.

    - Remove the flexibile union sleeve between the air intake duct and the air box (when refitting this sleeve, respect the arrow indicated on the sleeve-must be towards the airbox). Now you can remove entirely the air intake duct out of there.

    - Now you can access the grill and fix it.

    While everything is removed, it's also a good chance the clean up everything as there can be a lot of dirt and dust behind all these panels.

    It seems complicated but it isn't at all. Just take your time, make slow moves, study everything carefully before removing any part. You'll see that the F430 is a real pleasure to work on.

    Hope this helps ;),
    Stef
     
  10. fc2

    fc2 F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Nov 2, 2006
    5,263
    Silicon Valley Ca.
    Full Name:
    Frank C.
    #10 fc2, Jan 7, 2011
    You lost me at: - Remove the left engine bay rear guard...
     
  11. SfefVan

    SfefVan Guest

    Nov 28, 2008
    1,370
    Switzerland
    Full Name:
    Stef
    #11 SfefVan, Jan 7, 2011
    Sorry, I meant the rear panel in the engine bay.
     
  12. SfefVan

    SfefVan Guest

    Nov 28, 2008
    1,370
    Switzerland
    Full Name:
    Stef
    #12 SfefVan, Jan 8, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Some more details about the intake (see picture) :

    The outside air enters the engine compartment through two ducts-resonators (1) located above the rear wheelhouse and fitted on the outside with a protective grille (2). Very often, the origin of the rattle is the gasket between the duct and the grill which can slip away. I had to readjust mine too. In some cases, the gasket need replacement coz of the wear. When it rains, lots of water is sucked in there. That's why the duct has several holes to evacuate the water.
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