Hi, I have the following problem with a 1996 F355 Berlinetta. The ABS Light is permanently on. Can't read any fault codes by inserting the fuse in the diagnostics socket next to ABS ECU as the ABS warning light just stays illuminated. Would this indicated its not a sensor problem but some kind of other electrical problem? Or does the ECU needs somehow needs resetting first? Any ideas?? Thanks, Peter
I had a wheel sensor go on one of my other cars (Maserati 3200) a few years back and the ABS light only came on once I started moving. I think the module assumes that the sensors are all OK until you start moving. It was a pretty 'cheap' fix in the end (cheap for a maserati, anyway). If the ABS light comes on and stays on at key-on before you've turned a wheel then it's a fair guess that the problem is in the electronic module or in the compressor/accumulator/valve system. Anyway, you'll need an SD1/2 to read the Ferrari ABS system error codes.
The ABS light can come on and stay on for a variety of reasons, such as leaving the test fuse in the ABS socket or having low brake fluid.
Can someone point Me wich one is the test fuse? Mine have all in place.Maybe I leave the test fuse in place..HELP PLEASE..!!!
Have a similar problem with my 97 355. ABS light on, no codes when a fuse is inserted in the diagnostic fuse holder. 96 has the same system as my early 97, ATE Teves. The Ferrari SD1 or SD2 will not read ABS codes on cars using the ATE system, The later Bosch system will generate codes that can be read through the OBDII connector. If your brake warning light is not lit that generally rules out low brake fluid or a pressure problem at the high pressure accumulator. The workshop manual points toward an electrical problem, bad ground etc, relay issue, power issue or the ECU. Reference the workshop manual for a comprehensive section detailing the ATE system. How it works and possible problem areas to investigate. I have not been able to trace my ABS problem but plan to devote a bit more time at the end of driving season. Good luck!
I had some time to have another look at it. I definitly didn't leave the test fuse in the socket. I did try the diagnostic with the test fuse again after disconnecting the battery using the battery switch, which made no difference. The light comes on as soon the key is turned into the 1st position. I checked the wheel speed sensors signals using a oscilloscope, measuring at the plug going onto the ABS ECU, all 4 seemed Ok. In the case of the ABS light always on the workshop manual point to 4 possible causes, 2 of them internal control unit faults, no electrical supply to the ABS ECU or short circuit of the warning light earth lead. At first sight electrical supply is ok and no short circuit of the earth lead of the warning light. The light goes out when I disconnect the white 8-pin plug beneath the ABS ECU... Any suggestions on testing/checking the ABS control unit? Peter...
Since my last post, I had the ABS-ECU tested, and the company which tested it claimed it wasn't powering up anymore and beyond repair. I then ordered a second hand unit to replace the old unit, but Im still having the same problem Have I done something wrong??? Peter
Peter, I doubt you will know for sure, until you have the second unit tested, to confirm it is operational. That is the risk with second hand units. Even if it was presumably working when removed, you are still uncertain what might have happened to it since, that could cause it to now not work.
Does the Red Brake warning light work? Not the Park Brake warning. There is a specific red brake warning indicator for low fluid, brake pad wear indicator or low boost pressure. Often that bulb is burnt out and peaple are unaware of it. It should proove out when the vehicle is started. Any concern that turns on the brake warning lamp will also illuminate the ABS lamp but will not store any codes. You may very well have a base brake concern causing your ABS lamp.
