Thought I would start a new thread since others dealing with this subject are old and/or incomplete. I decided to change the battery in my F12 myself and what follows is DIY information and advice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A few comments first: 1) Actual removal of the battery is not difficult once all the correct steps are completed. 2) Other posts or comments that discuss trying to angle or tip the battery to slip in and out are incorrect and extremely difficult if not nearly impossible to achieve. This is simply because there are more additional steps to complete prior to being able to easily physically remove the battery. No special tools are required if you proceed to full disassembly before simply lifting the battery out. 3) It is not really a difficult job to complete if you know the process and aren’t expecting to tilt the battery which also requires you to put unnecessary strain on various wiring harnesses. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First step is to remove the access panel as if you were checking your oil. This is the panel in top corner of photo. Image Unavailable, Please Login This is what it looks like removed Image Unavailable, Please Login In the above photo I have already disconnected the standard quick release negative or ground terminal sometimes referred to as the false ground and I have covered with a tapped rag so that the ground cable does not accidentally touch the positive terminals while working. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Next pull back the rubber weather stripping along edge of passenger side engine trim or cover. Then remove the trim’s fasteners using a 4 mm Allen or hex key wrench. Important: there are also two fine Phillips head screws in the outside edge of the trim cover towards the fender. If you don’t remove these you risk cracking or damaging the cover. Zero force or effort is required to remove the trim once all fasteners and screws are removed. Below shows locations of the screws. Typical and obvious fastener in bottom right. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is where others indicate you can now try to start removing positive terminals/cables and try to pry battery out. However a few more steps and it’s easy with no risk of damaging anything. So next remove the passenger side lower windshield trim. Again the fasteners are obvious and all 4 mm. One is hidden under a removable cap. Here is a shot of the panel Image Unavailable, Please Login The critical thing is there is a fine Phillips head screw that also holds this panel in place. It is near the hood struct. Remove the screw and then the panel will wiggle out with no force required. If it doesn’t come you have not removed the hidden screw or all fasteners. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One more thing this trim panel has a drain hose connected to the bottom of it. Use a slot screw driver or appropriate sized wrench, I think it was 8 mm, to loosen clamp and from trim. Then remove the entire trim from vehicle to expose the air box. Here is a shot of trim again and the hose after removal. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now you can see the air box plenum that must be removed to fully and easily access battery. As I recall there were several 4 mm fasteners and two 8 mm hex head bolts holding the box in place. Important: the air box also has a large drain tube at the bottom with a clamp. Pull box upwards to access clamp, loosen and remove hose. Now you have full unimpeded access to the battery!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Above is the air box plenum to be removed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here is the large drain hose attached to bottom. Hose on left of photo was the one attached to windshield trim. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Air box being removed upwards after hose disconnected Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Guess what... you can now easily get at the battery to complete final removal steps. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s doesn’t matter the order now but remove positive cable block and associated trim screws from battery Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Remove battery retainer or clamp using what I recall was 10 mm deep socket. That’s the black metal price beside oil filler cap with negative post on it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pull back heat shielding to expose main ground cable to battery and remove from battery. This is cable and post near upper left of photo below Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now battery is simply sitting in a tray once you have pulled back all cables and wiring Image Unavailable, Please Login Lift battery out with no restrictions by using the battery’s handle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Below is what area looks like with battery fully removed, including heat shielding Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here is new Interstate battery I purchased from dealer because I couldn’t find another fitment locally. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here is heat shielding in place in battery tray before putting battery back in Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Shot of battery back in with some cables attached Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now just reassemble by putting air box in first then windshield trim and finally engine trim. Here is one shot of windshield trim going back in. I sprayed edge of windshield and adjoining trim with glass cleaner to provide a bit of lubrication while wiggling it into perfect alignment. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Everything actually fits nicely into place with no force or prying/pushing. So be gentle. Here is the money shot... all back together. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tell us about the various seals between the airbox cover and the airbox (foam), the airbox against the firewall (white), and the airbox cover against the rubber seal of the windshield. A tear from separating would require ordering the part which would likely be a nightmare like some of the parts that are never stocked or worse require repurchase of an entire assembly. The seal against the windshield on mine appeared to potentially have some kind of sealant. As I did not want a leak there, I performed the battery replacement without removal of the lid or ductwork. Wasn't fun but no worry on leaking seals. Thanks.
A couple of other things since I am going all from memory and the few photos I took once I figured this was worth posting: reconnect false ground quick release before closing up final trim piece. I still have ground wrapped here. Image Unavailable, Please Login Then before starting car follow the proper procedure before actually starting the car. This includes turning on ignition for at least one minute before starting car for ECUS to sink etc. I will post the process when I have time. I hope this helped and I just wrote all of the above from memory after doing earlier today. I may have missed a step but it’s all intuitive once you know you must fully remove the windshield trim and air box to fully expose the battery. Just like for most of us there were no short cuts in life prior to purchasing a F12, there are no shortcuts to removing a F12 battery that won’t end in agony, grief and possibly damage to your car. I will respond to questions as I likely missed something putting this together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And just for the heck of it... one of my favourite photos of my car taken after a rain storm while on a road trip: Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
