355 F1 gearbox light flashes continuously

Potentiometer?

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If the TCU can't figure out where it is it will flash

The other thing is air in the actuator

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Normally that condition you mention is exactly a bad accumulator..but you changed it

It can be air in the system and you need a tool that talks to the TCU to bleed correctly

It also can be a bad solenoid that is internally leaking

There is .01 percent chance it is the check valve as well in power unit

Without a proper diag tool it will be hard to diag it correctly

I named all the possibilities though especially if you don't see any leaks on floor and level is good

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If blinking means it thinks it is in that gear but not sure it not fully engaged within grid .. meaning pots are worn

Sounds like you have to choose one item and go down the list

A good bleed of clutch and actuator first ..need proper diagnosis tool

Check pressure drop and values making sure pressure sensor is goon
Reevaluate accumulator...maybe bad part
Start replacing solenoids



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Mitch

I think we are saying the same thing ...

Given your timings need to find out why pressure is dropping son quickly..I think my post (10) is a good plan of attack

I would be happy to help on the phone as well ..you have my number

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Grab a Voltmeter and test it! It's pin 51 against ground (e.g. pin 20). According to the WSM, the sensor output is 0,5V plus 1,0V each 20 bars. Given a normal system pressure of around 50 to 60 bars, your voltmeter should read at least 3 Volts

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That will definitely test to see if the system gets to the right pressure when pump shuts off .meaning testing the sensor

But I think the problem is the pressure is falling too fast .. again usually a bad accumulator, or not as freq (internally) leaking solenoid

But I would start with a good bleed always .. air does things that look like other symptoms

I am wondering if when the accumulator was changed if air entered system

Was the accumulator that you replaced a OEM and new

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I cannot comment on voltage tests .. never did one so not sure if manual is correct
At this point , if accumulator is good ( 20 second first cycle shows that actually) .. you most likely have a bad solenoid (s)
Again without having the proper tool to do bleeding etc .. not sur ehow you would go about changing a solenoid
Have you tried ( i never did) .. start car and bleed clutch .. there should be pressure there to bleed clutch

BTW - did you have any issues with pump run times with key "on" only or shifting before changing pump and accumulator

 

Is your gearbox in neutral right now?

 

Really need to do a relearn..I know you need a tool you don't have access to ..but I am running out of options here

Do you know anyone that can lead you a Leo for a few days ..

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Your transducer works fine. There is no link between the sensor signal and the stop of the pump other than the pressure. So if the signal drops immediately by nearly half of its value, then your hydraulic pressure does as well. Which is definitely not right.

Your TCU also works fine. If it does not see >= 3 Volts from the pressure sensor, then according to Wolfgang it will flash the warning light and disable shifting.

Wolfgang would probably know, but why would it matter in your case? 10 sec. should be enough to prime your hydraulic system. Maybe it disables the pump for safety reasons (e.g. thermal protection).

Pobably because the first three solenoids were of proportional type (PPV/QPV) whereas the others of On/Off type. But again: Wolfgang could probably know, but why would it matter? There is no indication that your TCU is faulty.

 

I assume that you either have (1) air in the system, (2) a bad accumulator or that there is (3) an internal leakage in your hydraulic block.

As for (1), I suggest you rule out that there is any air in your system. Did you open the hydraulic system other than at the accumulator? Usually it is not necessary to bleed when changing it. But maybe your case is different.

You need to bleed: At the block, at the clutch and at the control arm. The first you did and the second as well. The control arm has three bleed screws that should be loosened when running the corresponding diagnostic job. As you have no SD1, you could try to charge the system and loosen the screws anyway. Maybe you're lucky and something positive happens.

As for (2), your accumulator is new and in working condition. Correct?

As for (3)... well, I'm afraid this is the most probable cause. It is that the car had the very same issues before you started your repair attempts, right? This would make the previous two options unlikely, as there certainly neither was air in the system before all the time nor did you replace a faulty accumulator with another faulty one. Right?

Things that could cause an internal leak: Solenoids, pressure relief valve, check valve, block failure.

You could manually inspect the pressure relief valve. Unscrew it and check for dirt and signs of wear. You could also try to check the solenoids. It is tricky without a proper diagnostic tool. But you could imitate it. Let me know if you wanna go this way.