Euro 550 OBD plug . Yes it is there and I have found it. | Page 3 | FerrariChat

Euro 550 OBD plug . Yes it is there and I have found it.

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by Robbe, Nov 9, 2020.

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  1. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

    Aug 8, 2002
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    RE: 550 and 575, In order to read both ECUs the immobilizer must activated with the ignition on. If you just turn the ignition on without engaging the immobilizer only the left (slave) ECU can be accessed.

    I wasn't aware of this and that lack of knowledge cost me many hours and considerable dollars :(
     
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  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Regarding coolant temp sensors, if one bank is ok, then the coolant temp sensor should be ok as only one sensor is used for engine management (on both banks). If the right ECU is failing to send data to the other ECU either because of an ECU issue or a wiring issue, I think this would have been spotted earlier. I guess it depends on how the data is transmitted from one bank to the other (data bus or discrete wiring).
     
  3. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    activated or deactivated?
     
  4. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

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    Good point, I meant to say you must disarm the immobilizer
     
  5. MattH1973

    MattH1973 Rookie

    Jun 14, 2020
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    yes - i have the 3 pin to OB2 adapter with the red and black power wires coming out. So I connect those to a power source as well as the 3 pin connector. The scanner I have tries to read the code but doesnt get anything - feels like a software mismatch. but i will try again, ensure the ignition is on and immobiliser off, and try with my new fuseboard as the old one is a bit dodgy.....
     
  6. AVIMAX

    AVIMAX Formula Junior

    Aug 5, 2014
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    The temperature sensors in the left and right coolant manifolds trigger the radiator fans. The sensor in the left manifold is the primary sensor and turns them on at a certain temperature. If that sensor fails, the sensor in the right manifold acts as a backup and turns the fans on but at a higher temperature, (220F I think). You know your primary sensor is bad when your fans turn on, but at a higher temp. Happened to me. My fans normally turn on before the half way mark on the gauge, then one day all of a sudden they didn’t turn on until past the half way mark. Left side sensor died. The 3rd temp sensor (the expensive one) signals the temp gauge and can also trigger the multi function display if the coolant gets too hot, I think 235F.
     
  7. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

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    I bought a Fiat 3 pin OBD2 adaptor only to find the 3 pin connector will not mate with the Ferrari 3 pin connector. After a few fails I have ordered another connector and will try again when it comes. I'm just curious to see if I can access one ECU at a time via the 3 pin connector. Some are calling it a "serial connection" I don't know it's actual name but I suspect it is for connecting a SD tool, or maybe it's an ALDL connector
    ALDL= Assembly Line Diagnostic Link
     
  8. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    The same wiring goes to the OBD2 port on US cars. Perhaps it depends on the ECU what kind of data is transmitted?
     
  9. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

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    I'll know more when I get my ECU's back sometime next week.
     
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  10. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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  11. Robbe

    Robbe Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2013
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    Used MAF sensor arrived, will replace the suspected faulty one later today. Hopefully I can report back that all is well now...

    I did a full smoke test, and the only places to leak where the throttlebodies : connections to the "elbow" and the throttle valve axles. (but only very lightly, I could see smoke swirling out a bit from the bottoms, with 1 bar pressure on the system.) So not really a problem I think.

    The switch I found in the footwell I only found at the driver's side. Still not sure what it does. When the main driving problem is solved, I will try to see what effect it has (like extra alarm, immobilizer, test switch, opening hidden smuggling compartiment etc)

    About the OBD plugs,
    a few years back I bought a cheap Fiat OBD2 to 3 pin connector on Ebay for my 355 , it is nothing special. It works directly on the 550, ISO 9041 system.
    But as said above, the immobilizer has to be disabled.
    My scanner is an Autel 519, low to middle range device , with external 12V crocs that the system needs to operate.
    I started with the ECU on the drivers side, so the passenger side was still connected. (as I did not know I could enter the right ECU separately). As far as I know it only shows info from that ECU, not from the right hand sight. That one has to be entered seperately.
    My car is a 1998 German delivery, maybe there are variations?

    About the coolant temp switches, I believe my fans start at a little over halfway, so it sounds like the lh sensor is no good.
    Would that affect the mixture to such an extent that it affects driveability? I would assume that -40 (default setting) gives a richer mixture, where my problem (according to the LTFT values) leads to a lean situation.
    (fuel system keeps pressure after shutting engine off, so no leaking o rings on the injectors)
     
  12. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    The data cable goes from one ECU to the other ECU (via wiring splices). By disconnecting that 3 pin data connector and plugging in your scanner, you won't be able to get data from the passenger side (at the same time). Only a proper OBD2 plug can do this as it doesn't interrupt the circuit (It's spliced to both ECUs)

    So the sensor is reading hotter than it should be. Remember the data from the left sensor is not used by engine management. It's only used for fan control. The right sensor is used by both banks (somehow) and fan emergency backup.

    The -40C means the ECU can't read the temperature data (or it's very, very cold). In message #7 in this thread, the -40C engine coolant temperature (ECT) reading on the Left ECU may only be that value because the ECU can't read the data as the left temperature sensor isn't hooked up to the ECU (because the left sensor is only hooked up to the HVAC system). The scanner may not be smart enough to look for the temperature data being sent from the Right ECU (right sensor) to the Left ECU (on the left/right bank interface plug... or however the data is being shared).

    A driveability problem due to temperature would only be due to temperature sensor errors on the right side (but you know that is ok, as it gave a reading of 15C... assuming it was 15C that day).

    I'm not really sure what it does, also. Someone just mentioned they had a switch in a similar location on his 456 which was hooked up to his ECU.

    Apart from those small leaks, I'm not sure what else could be affecting the engine management system.

    Are your fans so effective that they are cooling the coolant temperature so much that the right sensor is getting a low reading? Anyway, at some point, you'll have to change the left sensor because the fans are coming on too soon.
     
  13. Robbe

    Robbe Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2013
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    Yes you are right about the temperature, the data showed (15 degreesC) , which was correct that day, so the reading is correct.The value of -40 stays the same, engine cold or not, so a default value.
    The fans indeed start too late (at say 1 o clock), so that will be a job for the future.

    Other thing, more important regarding my problem,
    I installed the just received spare MAF on the right bank, and connected the scanner to the left ECU.
    Not good, still too low, with values not getting higher than 10 at 3000 rpm.
    So I switched to the one I knew that was good, but that one also gave a reading that is too low, same sort of values.
    Then I connected the scanner to the right ECU, and the MAF values on the left bank were ok. (or at least looking normal.)
    Tested that with the other 2 MAF's, same story, all the same normal looking values when installed onto the left bank.

    So it turns out that my MAF was not at fault, it is something between the MAF connector on the right bank and the left ECU.
    Or a huge air leak that sucks more air on higher rpm's that the MAF, but that is not plausible, correct?
    I already did a cylinder pressure test earlier which looked normal, on the right bank all values within 3% of each other, and comparable to the left bank.
    Just wanting to eliminate the possibilities...

    When I disconnect the MAF totally, the scanner gives a value of 0, so the computer has some sort of connection to the MAF connector, otherwise it would not register it being disconnected.

    So what can this be? how can I test the connector and wires? (or the ECU??)
    It has 4 pins, one ground, one 12 or 5V feed I assume, one a signal V, and one I do not know, but how do I test?
    Is it correct to assume that the signal voltage is lower at high rpm's? If so, how is it possible that the voltage stays high (if that is the problem) if the MAF itself , using up voltage, is ok?
     
  14. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #64 Qavion, Dec 2, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
    Sorry, I misinterpreted your first statement. I thought the fans were starting early. I haven't looked at a 550 temperature gauge recently. If they are starting too late, then the emergency fan system may be operating (using the right sensor). The right sensor is used for engine management on both banks.

    Possibly a problem with the bank interconnect wiring or plug. However, I was looking at photos of 550 harnesses and I couldn't find the 12 pin (interconnect) plug as shown in the wiring diagrams. I can't figure out how the ECUs talk to each other (unless it is via the 3 pin "Fiat" plug).

    Here's an advertisement for a used harness:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrari-550-RH-Engine-Wiring-Harness-USED-P-N-171394-/402336559010

    I see the large rectangular plug (which has 21 pins in 3 rows) which interfaces with the rest of the car and a strange 8? pin rectangular plug which is not in any of the wiring diagrams.

    Note the two plugs near the ECU. Do you have both of these?

    Sorry... it's late at night here and I'm losing concentration. I'll have to re-read your message tomorrow, but when you say you disconnected the MAF... and the scanner shows zero, is the MAF on the same side of the car as the ECU or the opposite side?

    (edit) Can you find that rectangular 8(?) pin plug in your own car and see if it has more than 8 pins?
     
  15. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Just to clarify, the 21 pin plug is on the left, next to the ECU plug. The 8 pin plug is on the far right near the circular (injectors) plug.
     
  16. Robbe

    Robbe Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2013
    611
    The Netherlands
    Thanks for your support!
    I have looked at the back of the engine, and all I can see are 2 circular plugs, and a blue small plug, but no other plugs in sight (does not mean they are not there, it is just very difficult to see what is between the engine and the bulkhead.)
    Or should I look for the 21 and 8 plug in the footwell, drivers side?
    About the disconnected MAF, I disconnected the right side MAF, which gave a value of 0 as effect on the scanner that was connected to the left ECU. So opposite side.

    Other thing,
    I used a volumetric efficiency calculator to check the MAF values, but it looks like the "good" side is much too low as well.
    At 2000 rpm, a 2.75 liter 6 cylinder should see around 47 g/s, where my "bad" side gives 7 and my "good "side gives 16. Both not anything near 47 grammes...
    So maybe the "good"side is just slightly less bad? Perhaps an indicator for another cause?
     
  17. Robbe

    Robbe Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2013
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    Might have concluded too fast in the above posting: did not measure with WOT, so that could make a lot of difference. (Need to make a testdrive for that)

    And maybe yet another small piece of the puzzle: I just measured the resistance of the MAF connectors, engine off, ignition off.
    The connector female pins are numbered 1 to 4.
    On the left bank, supposedly good, the resistance (multimeter setting "200" = lowest setting, black probe to the battery minus)
    nr 1 = 1.6 nr 2 = 1.5 nr 3 = no resistance nr 4 = no resistance
    But on the right side "problem"bank:
    nr 1 = 0.4 nr 2 = 0.4 nr 3 = 37,6 nr 4= no resistance

    I have frankly no idea what exactly I measured, but a difference between the nrs 3 is remarkable: no resistance vs a relatively high value.
    Could it be a short? A bad ground increasing resistance? I noticed that the harness from Russ (ebay) shows at least 2 ground connections.
    Any idea where to locate them? (assume below the bulkhead somewhere)
    Or would a bad ground give a higher voltage in this case. and thus a higher mass value?
     
  18. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #68 Qavion, Dec 2, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
    Thanks! Previously I wasn't sure what side MAF data we were looking at. So even though the MAFs are wired directly to their same side ECUs, the MAF data must be sent to the opposite ECU on the mysterious interconnect wiring (i.e. not on the 3 pin plug, because that is disconnected).


    The 21 pin plug is in the footwell (both ECUs have this wiring). If you look at the photo of the harness, you will see a rubber seal. Everything on the ECU side of the seal will be in the cabin. The other side will be in the engine bay.

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    There's the right side harness. Here's where it gets confusing. I looked at photos of the left side harness and it doesn't appear to have a male 8 pin rectangular plug counterpart.

    There is a Ferrari label on the ECU harness near the ECU. Can you read the part number of your left and right harness?

    Anyway, I think I'm digressing. We know that the ECUs are sending data to each other (via a CAN Bus). If the data is reading high or low, datalines problems cannot cause this. Either the wiring from the MAF on the right hand side to the Right ECU is faulty OR the Right ECU is not converting the analog MAF data to digital data correctly OR the Left ECU is not decoding the digital data correctly OR... there is an engine problem.
     
  19. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Find the circular plug and go back 10~20 cm. There will be 5 or 6 sections branching out. The smallest one is an earth.
     
  20. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    If you have some spare time, can you see if that 2 wire plug near the ECU is plugged into anything?

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    Your harness may or may not have this plug. It's not shown in the wiring diagrams.
     
  21. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

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    #71 ferraridriver, Dec 2, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
    It's the female side of the 3 pin OBD2 connector. They are connected together, two wires on the female, three on the male.

    Some have called it a "serial connector". If it is disconnected the data link to the scanner is interrupted
    Look at any of the other pictures of that harness on eBay, most pics show it connected

    Ferrari 550, LH, Left Engine Wiring Harness, Used, P/N 173940 | eBay
     
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  22. Qavion

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    #72 Qavion, Dec 2, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
    ooops... of course..... I see now that the 2 wire plug doesn't actually go to the ECU*, but is wired to the large 21 pin connector.

    * except when it is plugged into the 3 wire plug, of course.

    Wiring diagram

    https://www.dropbox.com/t/ocVrSeVAp6lXMp5R
     
  23. Qavion

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    #73 Qavion, Dec 2, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
    Robbe, I'm not sure how safe or reliable it is to check the resistance of the wiring on the MAF plugs (male or female). Your resistance checker is introducing a small voltage into the circuit which may affect or damage MAF or ECU circuits.

    Not sure what all the components are in this typical MAF circuit, but I see a transistor and a signal amplifier

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    pin 1) earth
    pin 2) signal from the ECU to turn on the MAF
    pin 3) 12volts power
    pin 4) MAF output signal.
     
  24. Qavion

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    #74 Qavion, Dec 2, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
    If you're checking the MAF to ECU pins and there is a discrepancy, then this would suggest a wiring fault or ECU fault. Can you do wiring resistance checks between the MAF and ECU? (with the ECU disconnected).

    MAF plug pin 1 (black wire) should show a short circuit (low ohms) to ECU plug sockets 6, 28 and 34. It should also show a short to the engine block.
    MAF plug pin 2 (red/green wire) should show a short circuit to ECU plug socket 45
    MAF plug pin 3 (green wire) should show a short circuit to ECU plug socket 54
    MAF plug pin 4 (red/black wire) should show a short circuit to ECU plug socket 17

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    Make sure that none of the wires are shorted to each other.

    (EDIT... my earlier mini diagram shows the wrong ECU pin number on MAF pin 2)

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    When you short your multimeter probes together (in resistance mode), what reading do you get?
     
  25. Qavion

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    #75 Qavion, Dec 2, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
    Regarding the ECU to ECU interconnect wiring, it looks like these are definitely the plugs:

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    The Ferrari 456 also has 8 pin plugs.

    I don't know why the 550 wiring diagrams show a 12 pin plug with 9 wires on it.

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    I can't modify my coloured diagrams until I figure out what to do with the 9th wire.

    If you find that plug, maybe you can tell me what the wire colours are ;)

    Perhaps I'm just going blind and there are 12 pins?
     

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