Engine Build - 1978 Ferrari 308 2V

Top of the old noggin I think you can get another 1mm. Maybe a touch more but I don't have the numbers in front of me. That said, that's not the tricky bit. Those are slip fit, wet floating liners and boring out is done outside the block. Some have had custom jigs or 'pots' made to hold the liner to do this. Or get either a used set in good condition or custom new ones.

In terms of power increase. High compression, hot cams and tuned carbs, that's an easy 30hp. More if one gets crazy with cam profiles, valves & train, porting etc.

 

That looks like final honing, which can be done in the block with the proper setup. Cut boring is different.

I'm not familiar enough with superformance UK and their products to speak to them. If they're listed in that size for the early blocks then it should work. I just don't have the lower register dims in my head. 150/ea custom is a good price.

 

Hadn't noticed the video, yes they are cutting in the first operation. It's not normally done that way as chatter, concentricity etc.. can be problematic. They've figured a way to manage that it seems.

Yes and no, to 'kits' . The bulk of what we do is custom high performance, so there's not really any parts sitting on a shelf.

 

83mm is possible but 82mm is just fine too. I have done both. I have mine done the exact way your pics show, with torque plates. Of course removed them first and replace the o rings and seal with hylomar iirc

Doing nothing else but high compression and fast road cams and springs Superformance sells, which are Cat Cams, then jetting properly with a wideband you will see at least 270bhp at the crank and around 220-225 wheels

 

no problem!

remove the liners from the block, descale the outside of the liners as they are always caked up with gunk, clean the inside of the block and all the liner mating areas, replace the liner o rings and put hylomar over the o rings to help seal, then reinstall the liners.

 

You have to replace the liner o-rings or the rebuild won't be a full rebuild. Those o-rings are 40+ years old and will likely cause issues, for which you will have to pull the engine again anyway. They're really not that difficult to remove, just be careful.

Check the valve guide play and replace if necessary.

 

Liners in these do not require the block to be heated like many others such as Maserati from this era. These liners slide out like Alfa’s.

I haven’t used this particular tool but I have used on like it and they work fine:

https://m.vevor.com/pulley-removal-tool-c_10325/vevor-liner-puller-cylinder-liner-puller-dry-and-wet-for-75-138-mm-diesel-engine-p_010145876405?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=19813871746&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwjYKjBhB5EiwAiFdSfvbN-CW6-XG_vUedLNMrEVv9-OOgf_ipkEeOtfR_b4uJnC8B58KwuxoCw_gQAvD_BwE


As for the valve springs, if you’re using Cat cams fast road spec then higher lift/stiffer springs are required. Stock springs have about 65lbs seat pressure but (iirc) cannot accept lift above around .410-.420 or so. Performance springs (Superformance) to handle valve control for the fast ramp action of the Cat Cams ‘sport’ cams have about 85lbs at the seat and easily accept the lift for these cams which have .433 lift. Note these engines like a very tight lobe center, usually around 104 with cams like these, so ask Cat Cams with the lift at TDC during overlap period is to set them correctly.

On all these carbureted Ferrari engines I like to install 2 MSD (or similar CD box, lots of options) boxes for ignition as well. Points can still be used to trigger the boxes and the points last a lot longer. Fouling plugs is no longer an issue. You will need a tach adapter like an MSD 8910.

Once this thing is all together you will want to set up carb jetting with a wideband O2 sensor as the stock jetting is no longer applicable for the specs you are using. The higher compression and cams will send a much stronger signal to the carbs. Increasing choke size to 34mm is a decent gain in flow and is almost necessary to see 270-280bhp which I believe is what you’re after. I am not sure what the baseline jetting might be to start with but the O2 sensor will be necessary to dial that in correctly. Off the top of my head I seem to recall 130 mains with 160 air corrector (using stock F36 emulsion tubes) and .60 idle was where one of these landed a few years ago.

 

"In terms of jetting, do you know of a renowned supplier which sells DCNF jets?"

When rebuilding my carbs last year I found Pierce Manifolds to have good inventory, quick shipping, and fair pricing. I'm sure there are others out there.

Pierce ManifoldsPierce Manifoldshttps://www.piercemanifolds.com

 

Reinstalling is no problem. Check that the head studs all have clean threads, they're usually fine.

The stock cam pulleys are fine

If you're firing the MSD boxes with points, know the points will last a lot longer. You can fire the MSD using Pertronix devices but there is no difference so personally I'd stick with firing the MSD boxes with points.

I get all my jets and Weber stuff in general from an ebay supplier with the name 'Carb.deals'. He's in Europe, I believe the Czech republic.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293006614170?hash=item44388e1e9a:g:~uAAAOSwsixcigu8&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8D4C17vRsAyPRA9XpErCelRa53384H7xXbpICeRIRQX1WMlEm71qWfvFwDmKb4k1qeA20NdibEsXrdzxYKVUvfAlbJwonInYxdbEStlI1ro4HUEH%2FO82mlWthk8bKK7g7PAjW16VkDjEpC8QDG6%2FZ8Ow61bwlbHI0WtZHUkO2hPaJHFUrSRDxvbyRDmwEgoNfP58atBhnxlipvSDqksWt2FJcjk4ngUw5wHD5ECGNDFUStmyebcJkYNxfub2NgQyzA%2F6RxfuZkG4e8zdQiGIYNDcg4mqllPQQslHbuXGqPTini8OmtuSkycAqA1yDL9deQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6Sn556EYg

 

I don't know your physical location, but I had a complete long-block rebuild by T.E.M. Machine Shop in Napa, CA. They might be the one to answer your question. Apparently they do a lot of Ferrari work (I had to wait in line for 1.5 yrs). Here is the website...

https://www.temperformance.com/